Sorry never did this but if I was going to I would copy what the manufacturer did.

 

Mine came with a metal tray that is about 10 inches front to back and the width of the hoist, I use a bottle jack, little floor jack or scissor jack. The key is a low profile jack

 

Several of my old time contacts had their hoist bridges made out of oak. Might sound odd using wood, but they worked and were cheap.

 

I think what I will do is cut 2 2x2 8 gage square tubes to span the space between the rails, weld L angles to the ends, build 2 boxes with L angles on to fit 2 hydrolic jacks and lift away. I think that would be good to lift either end of a vehicle off the lift rails and do work on any suspension issues I may have. It wont be a rolling bridge jack but will slide end to end
If this doesn't look safe enough to me, I will move the vehicle to the other side of my garage and put it on my 2 post lift
Anyone see any problems with my plan?

 

I think what I will do is cut 2 2x2 8 gage square tubes to span the space between the rails, weld L angles to the ends, build 2 boxes with L angles on to fit 2 hydrolic jacks and lift away. I think that would be good to lift either end of a vehicle off the lift rails and do work on any suspension issues I may have. It wont be a rolling bridge jack but will slide end to end
If this doesn't look safe enough to me, I will move the vehicle to the other side of my garage and put it on my 2 post lift
Anyone see any problems with my plan?
Mine will have a factory jack tray also. I need to see how well built the jack tray is, which may make the above not necessary. I get my Direct Lift Pro Park 9000 on 6 July and I'm like a little kid waiting

Thanks for your replies folks