2018 Mustang GT Stock with only exhaust resonator delete and 305 radials run 11.80s at 120 mph

Hot Rod managed to clock a time of 11.83 seconds at 119.51 mph which was the best time of the day, but the car still managed to consistently post similar times with ease. The test car was a brand-new stock Mustang GT equipped with the optional 10-speed automatic transmission and the available Level 1 Performance Package with upgraded suspension, 3.55 rear gearing, and Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S tires. The test was performed on an optimized surface, and the only modifications made were optimizations to the front and rear tire pressures for drag racing, which of course anyone can do - 45 psi for the fronts and 26 psi for the rears.


Chances are with either engine you're gonna get spanked. Hard to be the 10 speed auto and launch control.

If you want to beat the Stangs go LS3 or LSX with a 4L80E or (TKO600 or T56 Magnum if your a very good driver) and forget the BBC.

My Personal Opinion

 

BBC's carry a lot of extra weight, but IF everything is right, you should be fine. (if not add a little juice)

Going fast AND staying street-able can be tough without a power adder.

Also......always someone faster


Of those 2 ….cubic inches should win.

 

I think what I’m mostly concerned about with option 1 is keeping it 92/93 octane. Srp Pistons, 720 solid roller cam, then big heads needed to match. Anyone have any experience with this? Because that combo can produce a lot of power and torque!

 

It's not just the motor that will make a car fast , it's the entire package motor cam tran rear end gears and suspension.

 

Exactly why to go LS/LSX. Less weight, higher rev. Simple with Caltracs and a drag pack and you’re in the 10s with a 3500 lb car that’s reliable, consistent and street friendly

 

Impossible to say without knowing what car you have and what the rest of the package is. Weight of car ? Transmission and rear ? Tire size ? Will you run slicks ? Etc Etc Etc .

If you want to go 11.20's in a 3400 lb car you will realistically need around 500 HP which is doable with a lot less camshaft than that.

Put up some details and you might get more accurate answers.

 

Big block, small block, LS, LSX, LSA, take your pick, build it as big and as bad as you want, horsepower and torque are only part of the equation when it comes to trying to get a 50 year old car to keep up with one of todays modern muscle cars. Traction control, launch control, magnetic ride control, ABS, computer controlled timing and fuel management, 8 and 10 speed automatic transmissions that can shift faster than you can pull the trigger on a gun, technology is going to win. If you want to go fast, build your car for fun. You will always get dogged by someone at some point. As technology continues to advance we will continue to struggle to try to compete against newer super cars. Anyone race a Tesla yet?

 

I built a Gen VI 454 for my 69 and I'd do it again. There's one thing I've had to come to terms with, new muscle will walk by me. I'm alright with that. Some of them will smoke the tires at 75+ mph. I don't even bother with them. Just like when the burners would do wheelies by me on my Harley. It's a different animal. I bought a Hayabusa to dust those guys after a while lol
It's not as much the cam as it is the compression for your octane needs. I built my motor at 9.75:1 with a .625 lift cam so I can drive it anytime without any issues. Always give and take depending on personal preferences.

 

I ran 11:1 with alluminum heads on 93 with 40 degrees of advance, 11.5 with alluminum block and heads.

Go to 11:1 and adjust timing for the street, the Cam has a lot to do with it

 

Yes, you can retard the hell out of anything to stop the pinging. ;-) I wanted to run regular so I went with lower compression. I'm also thinking cast iron versus aluminum. Aluminum is obviously nicer, but I remember what you paid for your set up. Insert pic of guy at strip joint peeling off hundreds and making it rain lol

 

A modern EFI setup for your old school BBC will also go a long way towards keeping up with the modern guys, and it will help driveability too. You will get much better fuel mixture control and the ability to change fuel curves easily.

 

I would run the 498 with a set of Brodix cnc ported oval port heads or AFR heads, a little smaller cam, and a side plane intake with a 1050 carb. With the right convertor, gearing, and suspension it should run deep into the 10's. But to have a suspension that hooks that kind of torque, it will still be drivable, but not very enjoyable on the street. You have to decide what you want more. A street car, or a car than can lay down a killer 1/4 mile pass. A car that does both fairly well does not do either exceptionally well.

 

Streetable & .720 lift cam does not belong in the same sentence unless you do not include long term durability in the streetable equation.
Big lift solid rollers are tough on valvetrain, springs & lifters. Can it be done, yes, but how often do you want to maintain it?

If you have to have a big block, build big cubes & milder hydraulic roller cam that has a nice low to mid .600 lift. A semi-smooth idle, 700hp 540 will be nice except for the gas mileage.

If you want something with the best of all worlds, build a forced induction LSx engine. Mild cam, under 400 Ci. & a Procharger can net you a 10 sec or quicker car that still gets well into double digit mileage & if built properly you can drive it anywhere on pump gas.

Just tossing out some options....

 

Streetable & .720 lift cam does not belong in the same sentence unless you do not include long term durability in the streetable equation.
Big lift solid rollers are tough on valvetrain, springs & lifters. Can it be done, yes, but how often do you want to maintain it?

Streetable means very different things to different people. The smallblock in my street car has a cam with over 0.700" lift. I've run over 600 lift cams in the smallblocks in this car for 20 years and understand what it takes. Your post reminds me of many threads that I've seen on Team Camaro and Team Chevelle. People run big solid rollers and then post threads about strange noises but they don't pull the valve covers. Don't run aggressive race car parts if you don't want to work on the car.