I didn't know what section to put this one in..I bought a 67 Camaro SS396 about 2 years ago off Ebay. I knew the car was rough and didn't have the original drivetrain but when I got the car is was far worse than I thought. I was very disappointed and I paid too much for it. I stuck it in the garage and it sat there for 2 years. I needed a winter project so I began taking it apart and seeing what it needs..It turnes out it was hit in the left front, right cowl and mildly on right quarter. The car must have sat for MANY year as when you opened the trunk you see the INSIDE bottom of the gas tank! The floors are rusted, trunk rusted. Roor had about 1/4" bondo on it all around. I cut the roof skin off and it must have weighed 20 lbs. The left cowl/firewall is bent back about 3/4" inch (that's bad).The A-pillars are rusted too. The bottom line is this...what do I do with the car? It will need a new cowl and a-pillars which means I'll have to remove the trim tag and VIN tag and it wont have the partial VIN stamping on the cowl anymore. If I ever sell it I will have to convince the new owner it's NOT a fake. Which it isn't. The alternative is to part it out but there arent many good parts left. Then there's a body swap which is WRONG and illegal. I won't do that. Or sell the VIN and trim tag. I cant do that. Or, just junk the thing. If it were a plain car it would be different but it's a true triple black SS396 4-speed. (non-rs). If I put all new sheetmetal on the car, it really wont be the true car anymore. Know what I mean? Anyway, what would you all do in this case? Thanks!
67 Camaro SS396
GTM
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I didn't know what section to put this one in..I bought a 67 Camaro SS396 about 2 years ago off Ebay. I knew the car was rough and didn't have the original drivetrain but when I got the car is was far worse than I thought. I was very disappointed and I paid too much for it. I stuck it in the garage and it sat there for 2 years. I needed a winter project so I began taking it apart and seeing what it needs..It turnes out it was hit in the left front, right cowl and mildly on right quarter. The car must have sat for MANY year as when you opened the trunk you see the INSIDE bottom of the gas tank! The floors are rusted, trunk rusted. Roor had about 1/4" bondo on it all around. I cut the roof skin off and it must have weighed 20 lbs. The left cowl/firewall is bent back about 3/4" inch (that's bad).The A-pillars are rusted too. The bottom line is this...what do I do with the car? It will need a new cowl and a-pillars which means I'll have to remove the trim tag and VIN tag and it wont have the partial VIN stamping on the cowl anymore. If I ever sell it I will have to convince the new owner it's NOT a fake. Which it isn't. The alternative is to part it out but there arent many good parts left. Then there's a body swap which is WRONG and illegal. I won't do that. Or sell the VIN and trim tag. I cant do that. Or, just junk the thing. If it were a plain car it would be different but it's a true triple black SS396 4-speed. (non-rs). If I put all new sheetmetal on the car, it really wont be the true car anymore. Know what I mean? Anyway, what would you all do in this case? Thanks!
It sounds like the best solution is to replace the sheetmetal. There is nothing wrong with doing that, just document the entire process if anybody ever questions you in the future. Temporarily removing the trim tag or Vin tag to do the repair work is really not an issue. If the cowl is rusted beyond repair then the hidden vin will end up being removed for the repair but I don't see why that would be a problem. If the hidden firewall vin is still there then that will still identify the body. If both the firewall and cowl vin need to be repaired then you might run into a situation where potential buyers will be hesitant about buying the car. The value in your car is going to be based on the trim tag being original to prove it's an SS396 so consider that before doing anything with it or the firewall.
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I think you have already seen what some of us will try and "save" from the junk heap. SS396 triple black car? I would pass along what you have left of the car if you are wanting to bail or quit keeping track of "what you have in it" and start the long road to replacing the sheetmetal or body. If you restore this car at least you know what you have when you are done. Buying someone elses "finished" car definitely has its pitfalls too. Good luck on whatever direction you go.
Thanks Jeff(s). The VIN stamping under the cowl has rust holes clear through two of the numbers!. The VIn is also stamped behind the blower motor which is okay, but crushed in as well. I think you're right about a complete documentaion of the process.I guess if I take pictures to verify the process that will be okay. The entire cowl is bent all up more than it is rusted but unusable for sure. About the only thing thats good are the rockers, package tray metal and roof structure. Other than that, every piece of metal will require replacement..I thimk the car will be really cool done but it will be a long road. Fortunitly, it's a 67 with the 4K code. If it were a 68, there would be no way to ever tell what it was..this is sort of sad to think how many 68's were crushed because their owners thought it was a plain jane!
its probably worth saving. Take lots of pictures before starting any sheetmetal removal.Wow, a triple black L78. If you are capable of doing the resto yourself, and it sounds like you are, then I would say take as many pics as possible and bring it back to life.
There were a couple a theories if I remember correctly as to why there are very few black on black on black first Gen camaro's. Something to do with superstition or bad luck. I don't know this to be true, just one of those rumors that float around. I do know this that is a very cool color. Add L78 and a 4sd to boot.
There were a couple a theories if I remember correctly as to why there are very few black on black on black first Gen camaro's. Something to do with superstition or bad luck. I don't know this to be true, just one of those rumors that float around. I do know this that is a very cool color. Add L78 and a 4sd to boot.
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5,592 Posts
Gary,
If you decide to replace the cowl and firewall if I were you I would document every step of the process. It might even be a good idea to contact a state inspector-DMV person to do a before and after inspection and get something in writing from them, maybe even notorized just so when you go to sell it one day-or if it gets wrecked or stolen after you finish it- you will have proof of what the car was originally.
If you decide to replace the cowl and firewall if I were you I would document every step of the process. It might even be a good idea to contact a state inspector-DMV person to do a before and after inspection and get something in writing from them, maybe even notorized just so when you go to sell it one day-or if it gets wrecked or stolen after you finish it- you will have proof of what the car was originally.
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10,721 Posts
Not sure on the D.corn idea as others state it's just as much work. Bear in mind these bodies are made from the same individual panels that also provide alignment challenges. Document the tear down and resto as stated. It's my outlook one would prefer that car if it were rebuilt than rebodied.
An excerpt: "Honestly from my perspective as a paint and bodyman with 23 years of experience,this project was a huge undertaking. All of the panel gaps needed attention,some were sliced and moved,some had to be welded and ground to the right width.Would I do it again...sure now I know what I am in for....for panel alingment, bodywork, blocking, paintwork was about 500hrs." http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=167739&highlight=dynacorn
An excerpt: "Honestly from my perspective as a paint and bodyman with 23 years of experience,this project was a huge undertaking. All of the panel gaps needed attention,some were sliced and moved,some had to be welded and ground to the right width.Would I do it again...sure now I know what I am in for....for panel alingment, bodywork, blocking, paintwork was about 500hrs." http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=167739&highlight=dynacorn
Thanks all for the good ideas.. I wonder if the DMV would be able to make a document of statement like that mentioned. I'm not sure my state would do that. I think if I save the cowl, bent BB heater box and some of the removed pieces that should help. I already used a ram and straightened the left a-pillar back so the door alignes perfectly now. I was amazed actually. How can you tell if it's a L78? I know the 2L is 4-speed and the 4K is 396, but how do you tell which one? The engine in it is a 396/325 hp one but not the original one.
Thanks again everyone. I'll put pics of the car on here
Thanks again everyone. I'll put pics of the car on here
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10,721 Posts
Look here and also search the complete CRG site for additional data: http://www.camaros.org/diffs67.shtml
No way I would consider doing that. You would be moving the VIN to another body and that's not legal. It's a tough call with the hidden VIN's being damage like they are. You may want to check with dmv and law enforcement to see if they will help document what you have before doing any work. Being an L78 car based on the trim tag helps make it worth saving, but I think potential buyers will be hesitant to pay the L78 price. If you are restoring it to keep it yourself then that makes it a little bit easier decision.
Thanks Scott. I learned something new. That's really cool. Where am I ever going to find a 67 L78 engine. LOL
Jeff H. I think you're right. I just couldn't put the tag and VIN on ANY other car. I wouldn't do it and unfortunitly, it's people doing this sort of thing that puts a bad taste in this hobby. If I sold this car as is, there is a good chance someone would swap the VINs and that's sad. Being there is so much sheetmetal parts available now, it's just a matter of willingness and having the financial ability to take on a project like this. I love all Camaros, from 6 cylinder models, to ZL-s..I wouldnt restore my 67 to turn it over and hope to make a buck, but I would like to know that if I did sell it I wouldnt have to justify it's authenticity. I saw a 67 SS396 convertible on Ebay that had a build date of 09 on the trim tag..I didnt think Chevy made BB Camaros until November..The guy wanted 40K for the car. Fake trim tag most likely
Jeff H. I think you're right. I just couldn't put the tag and VIN on ANY other car. I wouldn't do it and unfortunitly, it's people doing this sort of thing that puts a bad taste in this hobby. If I sold this car as is, there is a good chance someone would swap the VINs and that's sad. Being there is so much sheetmetal parts available now, it's just a matter of willingness and having the financial ability to take on a project like this. I love all Camaros, from 6 cylinder models, to ZL-s..I wouldnt restore my 67 to turn it over and hope to make a buck, but I would like to know that if I did sell it I wouldnt have to justify it's authenticity. I saw a 67 SS396 convertible on Ebay that had a build date of 09 on the trim tag..I didnt think Chevy made BB Camaros until November..The guy wanted 40K for the car. Fake trim tag most likely
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526 Posts
I would love to see pics of the car. Being a L78 I would not dare do a re-body, I would use and rebuild everything possible. It's gonna take alot of effort but in the end you will be glad you did.
Would like to see pic of trim tag too. I have 2 67 L78 blocks, they can still be found but the 67 is one of the hardest to find.
Would like to see pic of trim tag too. I have 2 67 L78 blocks, they can still be found but the 67 is one of the hardest to find.
67RS/SS396
Just a question here if I may, I am still learning.
I have a 67 RS/SS 396 car in the body shop for a repaint right now. They have had in since the day after Thanksgiving. I was told the rocker under the door should be Black, and that the Black should go into the door rocker all the way under the Door (fisher) seal.
In the pic's on your car I see it stops before going into the Carpet area.
Can you tell me which is correct?
Thanks
Just a question here if I may, I am still learning.
I have a 67 RS/SS 396 car in the body shop for a repaint right now. They have had in since the day after Thanksgiving. I was told the rocker under the door should be Black, and that the Black should go into the door rocker all the way under the Door (fisher) seal.
In the pic's on your car I see it stops before going into the Carpet area.
Can you tell me which is correct?
Thanks
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10,721 Posts
Those who gave you that info are wrong. Rocker blackout ended at the rocker spears, the division line at the spear points, or very close proximity. If you are searching for data there is an abundance of it at CRG:http://www.camaros.org/index.shtml within CRG is this:http://www.camaros.org/exterior.shtml#BlackoutPaint
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