[Steve in CA]

Been following this adventure. So how does it shift now that the repair has been done?

It's like driving a different car in some respects. Shifter takes way less force to move, and I can tell it is definitely aligned better when I made the 2-3 upshift. I got used to using a lot of muscle to pull the handle back into 2nd, that I may need to lighten up a bit doing that now. Also 2nd gear isn't all the way back at the end of the gear box, probably because he loosened the stops. I forget his reasoning, as I was getting information overload.

Also, he told me I had tightened the nut on the push rod too tight, as it had no play. He loosened it when he added the spring. I am not sure I noticed anything different in the clutch as I was so focused on the gear box, but the clutch was easy to use.

I'll make some videos next time I drive it. I was in stop and go traffic on the way home and didn't have a chance to open it up a bit.

 

[Brettallen59]

Steve, that's great news. It's good that it sounds like you did not need syncros. Where the charges for his work reasonable? I will add a spring to mine because of this post. I have been concerned that my pushrod will fall out due to the way I have it set, but the spring will pull the fork back to the rod which I really like.

Brett......

 

[Steve in CA]

Brett, he is expensive. But experienced.
You get what you pay for. I sure hope at least

 

[Steve in CA]

Steve, that's great news. It's good that it sounds like you did not need syncros. Where the charges for his work reasonable? I will add a spring to mine because of this post. I have been concerned that my pushrod will fall out due to the way I have it set, but the spring will pull the fork back to the rod which I really like.

Brett......

I am a little gunshy to share what I paid. I’m sure everyone will think I got robbed.
California is super expensive. I live next to three very wealthy beach cities, which drives the price up for everything service related.
$145 per hour. Since he had to take the shifter apart, it was not cheap.
That’s just how it is here.
Another reason I want to learn to maintain the car on my own as much as I can.

 

[Brettallen59]

Not necessary to post what you paid.
Brett

 

[Vega$69]

A new shifter is $420 and a couple hours to install.

Often rebuilding the old cost more than buying a new one.

However as with any professional you’re paying for knowledge and experience. A shop that charges $75 per could take twice as long to do the job.

Classic muscle cars take work. There are 2 ways. DIY learn as you go. Hopefully knowledgable friends to help or Deep Pockets.

 

[scblucam]

Spring looks good. Extra Shim? Don't know but looking better. Before long your 2-3 shift will become more fluid. Good progress Steve.

 

[Steve in CA]

A new shifter is $420 and a couple hours to install.

Often rebuilding the old cost more than buying a new one.

However as with any professional you’re paying for knowledge and experience. A shop that charges $75 per could take twice as long to do the job.

Classic muscle cars take work. There are 2 ways. DIY learn as you go. Hopefully knowledgable friends to help or Deep Pockets.

Yep, exactly.

 

[RifRaf]

The main thing is that you got your shifter & clutch adjustment issues resolved and you are able to enjoy driving your Camaro again... even if you did need to pay someone else to do the repair work.
If you had not sought the help of an expert, the repair cost could have gotten A LOT more expensive if your issues were left as is.

Based on your previous post, the shifter stops needed to be backed out. This usually means that the shifter arm is hitting the shifter stop before the transmission is fully engaged into the selected gear (this might explain the grinding noise you were hearing at times while shifting into 1st gear.) If left unchecked, you could have damaged gears in your transmission. That would have been a very expensive repair job.

You also mentioned that your clutch rod adjustment was too tight. If left unchecked, you would have probably burned up your clutch throw-out bearing at some point in the near future... requiring the removal and re-installation of the transmission to replace the throw out bearing. The repair shop was also able to install your clutch fork return spring in such a way to avoid the headers.

So in my opinion, the cost to have a knowledgeable expert repair the issues that were beyond your current expertise is money well spent!

 

[Steve in CA]

A new shifter is $420 and a couple hours to install.

Often rebuilding the old cost more than buying a new one.

However as with any professional you’re paying for knowledge and experience. A shop that charges $75 per could take twice as long to do the job.

Classic muscle cars take work. There are 2 ways. DIY learn as you go. Hopefully knowledgable friends to help or Deep Pockets.

I followed up on this a little while ago. I called Chris and asked him and he said hindsight is always better. Had he known up front he would have had to take the shifter apart, this would have made sense. However, while it's $420 + tax + shipping for a new shifter, he would have charged more, because that is how he makes profit. That said, it was 6 hours for the shifter work and the spring install in total. He didn't charge for those parts (they were super cheap anyway). It would have taken him 2-3 hours for the shifter install, plus what he says is about $550 for his uncharge on the part. So, in that respect, I'm ok with that.

If the shifter ever needs work again, I'll just buy a new one. Better prepared with that knowledge now. Thanks for pointing that out that a new C+ shifter is only $420. I never would have thought of that, and I really appreciate that information. Thanks VEGAS!

 

[Steve in CA]

The main thing is that you got your shifter & clutch adjustment issues resolved and you are able to enjoy driving your Camaro again...

So in my opinion, the cost to have a knowledgeable expert repair the issues that were beyond your current expertise is money well spent!

AGREED. I am glad I attempted on my own first and then paid for the help when I needed it. It's a win-win, because the car functions better now and I know more. I will attempt to do more adjustments in the future on my own first.

I will try to get under the car today if I have time and take some video to see his work. When I do, I'll post it here.

 

[Steve in CA]

Here is a video of the return spring and how it is installed above the headers.

 

[Steve in CA]

Question - when I let my foot off the clutch, should it return ALL the way up, or should it have a little leeway from the top?

see video:

 

[Mkelcy]

Probably a little leeway. The pressure plate (strong spring) will drive the pedal up a long way, but the return spring that you just had installed covers the last bit of travel. You don't want the clutch adjusted so it's barely fully engaged at the top of the pedal travel.

 

[RifRaf]

Question - when I let my foot off the clutch, should it return ALL the way up, or should it have a little leeway from the top?

Steve, I think having the leeway... or play at the top of your clutch pedal return is not right and I think I know what is causing the leeway. But I need you to post another video to confirm my observations.

I watched your video on the location of the clutch fork return spring. It looks like one end of the return spring is connected to the clutch fork (correct), but the other end appears to be connected to a moving part of the clutch linkage (red arrow in photo below). I recall that you mentioned in the video that one end of the return spring was "connected to the end of the clutch push rod".

If possible, can you post another video with the camera showing the clutch linkage and return spring as seen in the above image.

• Note: A wider shot is ok... I just want to observe the action/movement of the clutch linkage and return spring when the clutch is depressed and released.

Once the camera is set, I want you to go into your car and slowly push the clutch pedal to the floor and then release... and then lift up on the "leeway" on your clutch pedal in the same fashion as you did in your previous video. Do this a couple times.

I have a feeling that the end of the return spring that is connected to the clutch linkage (red arrow above) in not correct. This end of the return spring should be mounted to a stationary object so that the spring pulls the entire clutch linkage assembly towards the front of the car when the clutch is engaged.

The way the return spring is currently installed just keeps the clutch push rod tight against the clutch fork... but it does not pull the clutch fork (and throw-out bearing) further away from the clutch diaphragm fingers as it is supposed to do. That is why you are seeing the leeway... or play at the top of the clutch pedal travel.
NOTE: The clutch appears to be adjusted correctly, so please do not try to remove the clutch pedal leeway/play by adjusting the clutch push rod tighter. When the return spring is installed correctly, it should fix the leeway issue at the clutch pedal.

Once I can see the requested video, I can give you some recommendations.

 

[scblucam]

I think Mike is correct. The spring is holding the rod in place but not returning the pedal to the top. That last little bit of play is to keep the throw out bearing off of the clutch fingers. Correct at the clutch fork but needs to anchor to the frame or motor stand on the other end.

 

[Charles Martin]

If already have a comp + shifter installed no need to buy the complete shifter. Hurst has just the shifter (new) # 3914340, reuse the handle and install kit already have for $280 . take the handle off, drop the rods and remove 2 bolts and the old one is out fits the 67-69 Camaro and Firebird.

 

[Steve in CA]

Hi all,

Mike,
Here is the video you asked for:

Here are two clips of driving it today after bringing it home from the mechanic.

Please don’t judge me.... I’m still a beginner at driving stick.

The clutch does have that leeway, but it all seemed pretty good to me on the road.

 

[Mkelcy]

Been driving stick for going on 60 years (okay, 58). You probably spent more time in neutral during those two clips than I have over the last 58 years. God gave you gears to use - accelerate or decelerate - that's what they're for.

 

[Steve in CA]

Been driving stick for going on 60 years (okay, 58). You probably spent more time in neutral during those two clips than I have over the last 58 years. God gave you gears to use - accelerate or decelerate - that's what they're for.

I’ve been driving stick for about 4 weeks. I’ll get there. I’ll use the gears.