Re: 69 cowl pannel adjustment

I would shim the fenders since there are shims for those.

I have not seen ones for the cowl panel but doesn't mean it hasn't been done before. I am learning with these cars that anything is possible, but it is not always correct.

 

Re: 69 cowl pannel adjustment

If the fenders are aligned correctly with the doors (which should be correctly aligned with the rockers and quarters) then I think you have to raise the cowl panel. Usually the thick gasket across the front and the thick rubber triangular seals allow some adjustment range.

 

The front area is to low where it aligns with the fenders but I'm also missing one of the triangles and the other is crushed. I'll get some replacements and give that a try.

 

Yes, shim the cowl panel as necesary. As mentioned, fenders are aligned with the doors w/o regard to the cowl panel.

 

What type of shims are used for the cowl.

 

Depending on how much height you are trying to gain you may be able to just flex the front lip of the cowl and achieve the desired effect. If this doesn't work common stainless flat washers will work.

 

I had to shim mine to get it to line up properly. I just did that yesterday after putting the windshield back in.

-Chuck

 

I know this is an older post, but I have a similar situation but its not the alignment of fenders to cowl, that is right on, it is the hood to cowl alignment. The hood is good at the fender and cowl on both sides, but as you get to the middle the cowl hood raises up a good 1/2 inch. Its getting frustrating. The rest of the hood alignment is great, and the hinges are new and close completely. I was working on shimming the cowl panel in the middle, but it does not look good to me with the big gap and the squirters hanging up above the bottom cowl. What else can I do?? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

What are the gaps on both sides, hood to fender?

You can drill out the spot welds in the back of the hood , on the support frame, maybe 2 or 4 each side can't remember exactly.
You drill the welds out and the rear of the hood becomes putty. Find your right geometry and reweld.

Keep in mind this tweak will directly affect your side gaps, if they are perfect prior it will necessitate regapping hood to fender clearances, but you asked.

 

Aftermarket hood? Repro hoods can come with the wrong arch. Is this a functional cowl hood utilizing all components? Is there a hood to cowl seal in place (not the cowl air cleaner seal)? Which air cleaner to hood seal is on it if any?

 

It is an original cowl hood. I am switching out the repro hood for this one. It definitly fits better than the repro hood. It is functional and meets the big block great. The cowl seal is off right now. The air cleaner seal is not an issue. The whole hood fits great except for the cowl fit.

 

Just becaue it's original does not mean the arch is correct. You are describing the need to use four .125 shims to make up the difference. I have never seen that many shims required under a cowl panel to meet the hood's elevation.

 

I understand, but is that a common thing that the arches are incorrect. How do you fix that? I think if you flatten out the center back edge of the hood, you will expand the width and then will be too tight at the fenders. Im a bit confused. (thats not hard to do)

 

The severity of your arch is not common on a GM hood. The width increase will be minimal and adjustment of fenders and doors may be required. Block the rear corners and push/pull the center down. Nose adjustment takes time, and a reduction or addition of as little as 1/32-1/64 throughout all panels achieves proper gapping. It's a choreography.

 

I am still in the process of getting that hood to sit nice along the cowl. I am going to do some drilling and see if I can configure that high crown. I will let you know how it all turns out. Going to the paint shop after that