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69 Z/28 Hi-torque Starter

1.6K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  sbaugh52  
#1 ·
I have read several threads on this forum about this sort of issue, but each is not like the issue I am seeing.

I have a 427 BBC in my Z. I had been using a Stock BBC starter for years. I removed the Resistor and I am running a HEI distributor now. The yellow wire is just blocked off and goes nowhere at this point same for the white wire. The only wire that was plugged into the original Starter is the Purple wire along with the Positive directly from the battery.

With that said the Nose cone of the original starter broke off. I had a new Hi-torque starter I bought for when the original stopped working. I installed the hi-torque starter and tested it to make sure it was shimmed properly before getting out from underneath it. I used a simple Key solenoid with one wire on the "S" tab and the other wire on the battery post of the starter. It spins the engine without issue. I then plugged in the purple wire from the harness (new) and the starter gear came out but that is as far as it goes. it will not spin the engine. I tested the purple wire while it was disconnected from the starter and when I engaged the key to "run" the purple wire put out 12v. When I plug it into the starter and check it at the starter it is only putting out 6v.

I have talked to several people and everyone is scratching their head saying its the solenoid or a ground. The problem I have is the other starter needed 12v as well and it worked fine. I changed nothing between the ignition and the starter, other than the starter itself.

I know Ford has a separate relay, someone mentioned that to me today, but I cannot find any information as to if the old starters had a built in relay in the starter and the new hi-torque does not have one and if there is a way to add one to get around it. If so, how? Or is it something else someone has yet to mention. I am ready to pay someone to come out here and fix it for me, but until then I am hoping someone else has seen this issue... crossing my fingers!

Thanks for takin the time to read this long post.
Scott
 
#3 ·
HT starter a Delco, or some oddball with a chunk of aluminum working as an adapter?
 
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#4 ·
It's a full 12v coming from the purple wire, until I plug it into the HT starter, then at the tab of the starter it's 6-8v.

It's probably Chinese, but it looks like this one. It works fine when I bypass the ignition, so I don't think the HT is the problem.

Full battery, new Battery Positive and negative cables, new Engine harness (year one). nothing else has changed and it worked fine with the old starter, full 12v. Just wonder if those starters had a relay built into them
 
#6 ·
Nose cone breakage is frequently caused by not running the starter brace connected to the block. It can be ignition advance related as well.

SoCal805 posted the right document to use to pick out the right PMGR starter and special bolts. Been using that one for some time and REALLY like it. Powerful and very light. Only available in "new" so no cheap rebuild junk. Rock Auto has them I believe. Need to look up by part number, not application. The new special bolts are critical as they are different than the original production line special bolts. Another plus is no starter brace is required with this PMGR one. Right at $100 including the 2 special bolts.
 
#7 ·
Another plus is no starter brace is required with this PMGR one. Right at $100 including the 2 special bolts.
My SBC one came with the new knurled shank bolts.

While the starter is smaller and lighter than the original, which did have the factory front brace, I chose to make one for the REMY starter. Just used a piece of copper pipe, smashed ends in vice in positions needed, drilled and angled ends as needed.

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