[JimM]

First things first...

I just test fit one of my original c-clips in the groove in my new moser axles, and THEY ARE LOOSE! The groove is a lot wider than the c-clip, according to the calipers, 40 thousandths wider.

Is this normal, or do I need different c-clips?

40 thou don't sound like much, but they sure do have some room in there.

And... if you all don't mind, save me some time looking up the details while I make a quick run to the hardware store...

Ring gear bolts, assume install dry? torque?

Carrier bolts, dry or lubed? torque?

backlash, used gears, I'm remembering .012-.016, correct?

Pinion shaft retainer bolt, 20 lbs, correct?

Be back in half an hour!

 

[big gear head]

The width of the c clip groove isn't important. When you install the axle in the differential, put the c clip in the groove, pull the axle back and put the cross shaft in place you should have around .005 to .020 clearance between the end of the axle and the cross shaft. The width of the groove will no longer matter.

Put red Locktite on the threads of the ring gear bolts and torque to 60-65 foot pounds. (also use red Locktite on the pinion nut on final assembly)

Bearing cap bolts should have oil on the threads and under the head. Torque to 60 foot pounds.

Backlash should be .010 to .012.

Retainer bolt should be 20 foot pounds with blue Locktite on the threads.

 

[JimM]

Thanks Freddy :thumbsup:

 

[JimM]

these gears are trying to p**** me off!

I'm setting the shim sets in place, then dropping the carrier in.
The shim packs are tight enough so I can just wiggle the carrier in and out, one more thin shim and it wouldn't go in...

With one set, I have .016" backlash.
If I move a thin shim from side to side, it goes to .006"

the magic .010 just doesn't seem to be there.

And I left my good dial calipers at work so I can't measure the shim, but I think I'm moving the thinnest one I have.

If I take out out of the pass side completely, it's right, but it slides in and out pretty easy, is that too loose?

What should I do?

 

[big gear head]

That is too loose. You should not be able to pull it out by hand. Put the differential and bearing races in the housing. Put the shims in the left side. Use a screwdriver or something to push everything to the left. Start the shims in the right side and then tap them in with a small hammer. You can use a drift punch or something against the shims so that you don't hammer flat spots on them. Use a pry bar against the ring gear bolts to pop it backout. Don't get it so tight that you damage the shims or housing, but tight enough that you can't pull it out by hand. Then you should be able to see some results from moving the shims.

This is a tool that I made to tap the shims in on the right side.

If you don't want to get it this tight every time while you are checking the pattern then set it so that you have to pull hard to get it out. It should never slide in and out easily.

 

[JimM]

ok, I'll put the pack is where it was 016, pl;us 1 more thin shim on the right. back ina bit.

 

[JimM]

ok, that did it. 2 more times in and out (had to use prybar to get it out) I got a CH over .010 backlash, and I can pick up the entire housing by the ring gear.

Time to put the caliper brackets an and take some pics.

Tx again, Freddy!
Ain't nuttin in this world better than getting the help you need in real time!

 

[JimM]

ok, both axles are in, clearance between the ends of the axle and the cross shaft is .006" on the left, .008 on the right. I think she good to go!

 

[big gear head]

What did your contact pattern look like?

 

[JimM]

didn't look at one. Pinion was never out, and I figured if the gears still looked new after 35 years it must be right.

 

[big gear head]

Yea, you are probably right. I forgot that you were not removing the pinion.

 

[JimM]

Yea, you are probably right. I forgot that you were not removing the pinion.

WHEW!!!!
had me worried for a minute there!

 

[JimM]

here's some Sunday morning eye candy:

Winter Poject #2, Replace broken 8.2 open rear with a strong posi rear.

73 Nova Axle, 3.08 open, scored on ebay for $142.50 plus $137 shipping

Borrowed this slide hammer thing from AutoZone. Don't think it was exactly the right tool, but it did eventually pull the old axle bearings out.

Clean housing covered in POR15

Stack o new parts, including new eaton 30 spline posi scored on ebay for $325 shipped, and new 30 spline moser axles, plus bearings and seals scored from Freddy. A neighbor pressed the bearing on the carrier for me for free!

Torqueing the ring gear bolts

new axle bearing and seal installed

Assembly was pretty straight forward, with some timely help from Freddie. Got the shim packs right for a tight fit and .010" backlash, slide the acles in and dropped in the c-clips. Momentary excitment when, with 1 axle in and the pinion shaft still hanging out, 1 son decided to "give her a spin", but no harm done. Checked the axle to pinion shaft clearance, .006" on one side, .008 on the other.

and then installed new summit cover and Wilwood disk brakes (look in brakes and suspension for deatails).
Here she is in all her glory:

 

[SixtyAte]

Jim..
Real nice ! Ready to take her down the track again


Kev

 

[big gear head]

Great job! I bet you get a real good feeling from doing this yourself.

 

[JimM]

I do Freddy, and thanks, couldn't have done it without your help, and my car would be a shadow of it's current and future self without the help of all my friends on this board.

Front suspension is next. I bought a "do-it-yourself alignment gizmmo" from Mark at SC&C, so I'll be adding wheel alignment to the list of things I can do myself. Along with learning to weld, it's been a great winter for "improving my skills"!