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I use my Chilton manual which list the valves that can be adjusted when on #1 TDC then rotate 360 degs and get the rest of them on the list. Seems to work okay.
 
I have a very simple way to do it for hydraulic cams.

You start anywhere and tighten them all down to eliminate and up and down motion in the pushrod. They need to be tightened just enough to remove any play and then 1/4 turn more. Rotate engine 360° and repeat the procedure to any pushrods that are now loose. After the second go around, the studs should all have about the same amount of thread showing as a visual check. That is all there is to it.
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Works for me!

-Mark.
 
The 90 degree rotation method should work on any cam due to the fact that both valves had better be closed on compression/fire for the given cylinder no matter how radical the cam is.You have to make sure that you are on TDC compresion stroke for each cylinder though.I think that EO/IC is probably a safer method. The Chiltons method only works well for stock or mild cams.
 
I agree that the 90 degree method is the way to go. My harmonic balancer is stock, so I made a tape strip up and divided it into 90 segements and stuck it on the balance temporarily. I rotated the engine manually with a breaker bar and everything went well. Even though this way takes a little more work, it has a built in failsafe system because if the cylanders are way off as you set them you are most likley out of rotation. I also noticed that the spin the pushrod method was much less accurate then the technique of moving the pushrod up and down until the slack is out.
 
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