[cv2065]

There was some surface rust in the trunk of my '67 RS, so figured out that the water was getting in through the holes that were drilled for the spoiler long ago. Frankly, I'd rather not have the spoiler, but I would have to have the 8 holes drilled into the trunk lid filled and then painted. Maybe sometime down the road, but not just yet.

I took the spoiler off today, took the old hardware off, and then replaced with a few fender washers with matching fender rubber washers, and put a little silicone around the hole, which should stop any water from entering, and you can't really see it unless you are looking for it under the spoiler.

Well, I was putting the nuts back on, and two of the studs that are used to secure to the trunk lid snapped off, and they are both on the same side. The spoiler is stable due to the other 6, but is not locked down completely flush.

Aside from redrilling, any ideas on how to secure those two threads back? Would JB weld work or some kind of epoxy be strong enough to re-insert and bolt down once cured? Mind you, the thread shaft is surrounded by plastic in the hole.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[NH69Z28RS]

Your approach to sealing the spoiler attachment points sounds fine, but of course Murphy had to make it a bit more interesting for you.

What size (diameter) are the studs that broke?

Did they break off leaving a portion of themselves in the threaded portion of the spoiler, or are they ripped/pulled out leaving stripped threads in the spoiler stud holes?

If they are broken off, center drill them and easy out them.

If they ripped/pulled out leaving holes with stripped threads, get replacement threaded stud material and JB Weld them back into the holes as you inquired about. Just make sure the surfaces of the holes and studs are clean and dry and let the JB Weld cure at least 24 hours before tightening the spoiler via those studs to the trunk lid.

Good luck, you should be fine.

 

[DT]

I used JB Weld also. It is still holding after 3 years.

 

[cv2065]

Thanks guys. The studs are 1/4" threading, and they snapped off at the top of the plastic fitting inside the spoiler. I just bought some JB Weld and applied it to the two snapped studs. They seem to fit right back in the hole, so I'm going to wait 24 hours and then get back to it tomorrow evening.

I think that the washers that I used lifted the spoiler up about 1/8" on the front side, which may be causing some issues with the other studs in terms of off centering them around their hole. The other problem is that the guy who originally drilled the holes must have been blind, as they are different sizes, but luckily, are equal distance apart from one another, so it looks somewhat 'professional' when you look at it. Although I may be begging for punishment, I may take the spoiler off again tomorrow and remove the stainless fender washers, as the rubber washers have already adhered due to the silicone, and I can see them underneath the spoiler, to drop it and make it more flush.

I'm still not sure how water resistent its going to be. I see that new panels come pre-drilled. Do new spoilers come with waterproofing measures installed? I asked a friend of my neighbors, who owns a body shop, what he might charge to patch the 8 holes in the trunk lid, and then respray and seal. I have the name and sample of the paint used when the car was painted. The car is black, and I believe that the paint is relatively new, so should match up OK being that it doesn't butt up against any other panel. He wants $275 to patch, paint, and seal, which I thought was an average price. I guess my question is, has anyone painted a trunk lid black, or anything like it, and is the color more forgiving than others in terms of matching? In terms of the patch, he started to want to do it in steel, but said that the heat might warp the panel, so he's recommending fiberglass. The trunk lid is original, is aligned and closes perfectly, so didn't want to go the new route, as its also expensive at $400 plus a panel for same gauge steel.

Thanks again for the comments and any new ones are appreciated.

 

[Sauron67MM]

All you need is dum dum, a similar sealant or thin compressable washer around the forward holes, the rear holes are aft of the gutter and drain fine. Your bodyman should weld the holes, not use fiberglass. Warpage is minimized by proper technique. He apparantly can't do it so you should find someone who has experience. His suggestion of using glass indicates he has no business being near a restoration. Paint match is not a problem. I'd strongly suggest finding a reputable shop. That water may be entering through a rotten rear window channel.

 

[cv2065]

Thanks Sauron.

The holes that were drilled in the top are between 1/2" and 3/4" in diameter. If the guy would have stuck with the 1/4" hole that he was suposed to drill, I wouldn't be having an issue. Would the Dum Dum sealant be suitable for that sized hole? Can you explain exactly how you would use it? I took the fender washers off the outside, as they didn't look that great, but didn't try a smaller size. Any specific ideas on how you would go about patching and re-installing the spoiler would be appreciated.

Also, how does that putty do in heat? Florida summers get pretty hot, and wouldn't want it to melt away and have to take the spoiler off to reapply. Thanks again for the assistance!

 

[Sauron67MM]

Put the washers and seals on the inside of the lid, not the outside. Your method creates an elevation problem. Originally, forward factory spoiler nuts had a captured washer with a seal.

 

[cv2065]

Thanks for the help Sauron. I bought some of the 3M Automotive Caulk Strips today in black, and it worked like a champ. I coated the bottom of each fender washer with it, applied a washer to the back of each trunk hole/spoiler stud where it would stick without having to hold it, then put a small layer of the caulk on the back side of each flange washer, screwed them snug, and then spread out the excess caulk that squeezed out all around the washer and nut on the inside.

Due to the poor hole drilling, the spoiler is off about 1/4" on one side, but nothing too noticeable. It will work until I decide to remove the spoiler completely and get the trunk lid holes welded and then repainted.

I'll test with water over the weekend and see where we are with it being watertight. Thanks again.

 

[Sauron67MM]

No problem. Check your tailight gaskets too.

 

[cv2065]

Thanks Scott. Good call, as my gaskets around the tail lights look like alligator skin. I'll be ordering more of those.

 

[Fried Okra]

I think that there's a lesson here for all the newbies and wannabes. Don't under any circumstance jack up an original trunk lid with a spoiler. I GUARANTEE that you'll regret it down the road. I have.

 

[cv2065]

I agree Jimmie. I wouldn't have done it either had I been the original owner.