How 'bout a Holley 300-36 intake.

 

The only thing I'd suggest is a 3" X-pipe, and you could clean up those heads for him!

 

Hey Eric,

Sounds like a nice combination, and I will look forward to the numbers it produces. Good luck!

 

Eric...Why the need to grout the block?
I`d steer him away from that idea,I don`t see an advantage there.
The same goes for those rings, I`ve never used them but the general consenus is they are not worth the money.

Why so conservative on the cam? with that compression and the 8" converter I think he`s cutting himself short there. Take the lash out and he`s got about .495 lift

I agree on the 3" X-pipe like 67RS502 mentioned.

Does he have those parts on hand or is this his wish list?

If he doesn`t have the heads yet check out the Canfield 197`s.

 

definatly more cam, "and compression" if your just gonna race it.
I'm runnin' a similer duration and centerline, w/ .585 lift on the street!

 

OK, you guys hit on the hot buttons I expected

On the cam - forgot to mention we were going to go with a 1.6 rocker on the intake which bumps lift to .552". We thought about going longer, but all the simulation programs show peak power at about 6500 with the smaller Crane (perfect for his 4.11 gear and guestimated trap speeds). If I go 5* bigger, the lower end gets softer and the high end too high. Although something with about 248-250* on a 108* LSA seems to look good too without bleeding off too much cylinder pressure.

On the compression - we could go a little higher but would need more cam to match it. We already have the heads on his 327 (which I already cleaned up Rafael they were pretty sweet right out of the box). they actually measure right at 65cc because I had to relieve a spot under the spark plug to clear the domes on his 327. We need to stay in the pump gas range - 110 is too expensive since he will be driving it too and from the track as well as cruises etc.

On the Exhaust - I forgot to mention he has cutouts right behind the headers. They're kinda cool - run off a solenoid and a switch under the dash. We could put in a bigger X pipe but it would be NA at the track since the headers will be open.

On the hard blok - I've gone back and forth on it and I've heard that it is supposed to reduce cylinder wall flex (better ring seal) and low end rigidity. the only down side to a short fill I've ever heard of was that oil temps tend to get hotter - not sure if it's true or not. As I understand it, the short fill doesn't effect cooling on the street.

On the gapless rings. I've seen some test data that shows them making roughly 7HP across the entire RPM band on a 425 HP engine over a standard set. Have heard both good and bad about the Total Seals, aparently the gaps can occassionally line up. Supposedly C&A has solved this problem but I do not know exact how - a tab or something to keep the rings from rotating independently. Would like more info / ideas on the gapless rings.

Thanks for the input.

PS. we were planning on running the Moroso 7 quart pan with integral scraper and windage tray. Standard volume oil pump with high pressure spring. Anyone heard good or bad about this pan?

 

Well i dont know what the scoop on this REALLY is but....the "crank with 6" rod counter weights" is unnecessary according to the guy who balenced my motor. He said its just more for him to take off and i ran the 6" Eagle 4340 H-beams with SRP pistons and my crank was the 4340 Eagle 5.7 rod crank, so look into that, may be able to save him a few bucks on balencing and have slightly smaller counterweights so it may save some grinding. Why the HP holley and not the Demon...Demon has so much more to offer for the same price. Just a few things, good luck man

 

I have the moroso 20191 pan. Integrated scraper/windage tray, standard depth with kickouts for increased capacity. You are supposed to run their matching pickup too. Mine fit like a glove, no leaks, and it looks cool However, it makes things a little interesting changing the oil with these hedman headers...you can't drop the filter straight down and you usually pour a nice load of oil down your arm. The fit and finish is excellent...more than I can say for several of the other parts.

Another cam you might consider is by crower...254/262@.050, .525/.546, 105 lca (I believe that is the specs). The tight lsa ought to make it come on like a beyach just before that convertor flash stalls. It is what crower recommended to me for 10.5-1, 3.73's, and a 3500 stall with similar weight. And I am pretty sure it will thump...hard

 

Reads like a good set-up. Should make a grunch of torque.

I too run a Moroso 20190 pan. I made an alum deflector shield for the headers when changing oil and I use a bra to wipe up the mess from the pan...LOL. Use a short filter.

I can't see short filling the block, it would serve no purpose to support the cylinder walls. The power stroke only lasts for less than 13 deg of rotation. The level of support is well above the expanding gases.

Just my thoughts.

 

Half-filling the block can certainly be a good thing. It makes the bottom third of the bores fairly rigid. I've got my 400 half filled, mostly due to the cylinder pressure and .060 overbore, but it shouldn't be necessary for your application.

By the way, the last motor I had half-filled, showed no adverse affects in water temp. Never had a oil problem either, but it was changed often.

 

Why not try a set of AFR heads or Brodix heads instead of the Toplines.

 

Whats wrong with the Toplines?

 

The combo looks real good to me, not too much different than the 383 I built and had the lifter failure with. The more I look at that combo it is very close to what I ran.

Stall seems a little steep to me, the engine is going to make enough torque down low to get the car moving, I think you are throwing away some by going with that high of a stall. I'm sure it will work just seems a little high to me. I am thinking 3500-3800 would be about right. When I had my stall made that is what they suggested (my car is slightly lighter).

He will absolutely love the 830DP with annular boosters. I have two of them and they are awesome.

I have ran both the Total Seal and Childs & Albert Gapless rings. I never did a dyno comparison so I don't know about the 7hp, I do know I have never had a problem with either brand. The Total Seals in my engine right now have been in there for about 4 years still doesn't burn any oil and runs strong.

I would also pass on filling the block, I don't think this application calls for it.

Eric I know you do your research so either way I am sure this thing will run. Keep us posted on the results.

 

Thanks guys. Maybe we will skip the Hard Blok - it IS a standard bore block so wall thickness should be good.

We're kind of locked into the converter, it is a $800 JPT custom build that currently stalls at 4000 behind his 327. We're estimating that it will flash to 4500 maybe closer to 5000 with the new engine. It could be a 9" converter - its not mine so I am not 100% on anything other than it currently stalls at 4000.

Thanks for the info on the rings Royce. Any special watch-outs with either brand?

PS. Nickle333 the crank doesn't have any extra weight in it - good point though, I know what you are talking about. the extra weight is needed when you internal balance a 383. Sometimes you can internally balance a 383 with 6" rods if you have lightweight pistons without using too much (if any) Mallory metal.

 

Eric,
On the rings just follow the directions, nothing special to watch out for.

 

Recently finished a 385" short block using an int bal Scat 9000 crank, KB pistons, Scat cap screw rods 6.0" and a Pioneer balancer.
No heavy metal needed.

 

Hey Eric,
I just threw one of those moroso pans you spoke of away. It had a hole in each side though! It was ok, but a little warped and I had to dink a few bolt holes to get a socket on them.

On the converter, my 9" did 4500 behind my fairly stout 377 and 4500 behind a dish piston 350 with 76cc heads and a 204 214 @ .050 cam. It comes off the line great though. The converter may not stall too much more, but I would say 4000-4500 would be awesome with that cam.

I have ran that cam before with a 4000 stall behind my 377 with that cam and 200 cc darts. It had 11.5:1. Had a Vic JR intake, 1 3/4 headers 3" exaust. 4.56 gears 3350#. It ran 7.70's with a 3310 and 7.50's with a 8896 1050 dominator in the 1/8 mile.

It ought to run good in a 383.

 

I've run that cam in a 350 with double humps. Power cam in very quickly (3000-3500 or so) and pulled very hard to 7000. While you could get away with a smaller converter, the one you listed should put you right in the meat of the powerband. I also think that this cam is about at the limit of what I would run with the compression ratio that you are targetting.

With all that said, if it is a race mostly car I would up the compression ratio go bigger on the cam and zing it.