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I'll bet the "bad" reading has to do with resistance. Check your ignition connections for looseness, corrosion or bad grounds.
 
When installing new pionts...drag a bit of paper or cardboard between them before install
They are manufactured with a very thin film of oil to prevent corrostion
9 times out of 10 i doesnt effect anything but that 1 in 10 the oil cooks and gives bad contact.
When chaning it is also best to replace the condenser also
The wire from the coil to points should be of correct size and close to correct length
relocation of coils and wire length can cause issues and burnt points in a similar way a crook or incorrect condenser will.
 
Very good suggestion from Steptoe.
Point continuity is with point set closed and engine off.

Measures the amount of conductivity of the point set - unit of measure is mhos - opposite of resistance - ohms.

Green zone would be fine.
 
Unless you are building a 100 point absolutely factory correct car,
why would anybody want to run points at this day & age?
I hated messing with them.....
 
why would anybody want to run points at this day & age?
I hated messing with them.....
I grew up with pionts..my vinage cars have pionts...like everything, set up right, good HT leads, correct condenser, correct wires and they run reliable and great for yrs
When one gets into higher compressions and higher octane fuels it is THEN one needs the bigger spark to ignite the fuel...higher the octane the harder it is to ignite.
There is nothing wrong with pionts dizzys whan applied to the correct application.
You will get far more issues using race track type dizzys in a street car..again wrong application for the component.

I hated messing with them.....
The ACdelco would be the most reliable and easest of all the dizzys I have come across.
connect the dwell meter, poke the allen wrench in, wind over the engine, set to 32

I keep a presetup points dizzy for the Camaro....HT leads coil, vac advance, the lot, and a ceramic GM Holden ballest resister ...
Something go wrong or suspect on the HEI...couple minutes to pull the HEI, drop in the points, plug in leads, fire up and set total advance
 
I hear ya Steps,
It was easy to just open the window & adjust. I just think with todays stuff- why? My points - back then- always burned/pitted after 3 months or so.....also had to adjust 'em once a month too, -- it got old....
Always set them using dwell meter too. Lined 'em up as best I could as well.... I guess points aren't for me.....:confused:
I just didn't like doing it.
Years ago I had the "Allison" box to convert an old points dist over. Worked really well!
 
My points - back then- always burned/pitted after 3 months or so.....also had to adjust 'em once a month too, -- it got old....
The most common reason for this is using the wrong gauge wire to coil, and/or wrong length...and/or incorrect condenser.
If burn on the anvail, increase condensor value , burn on the hammer descrease
A set of points set up right will last at least 2 sets of plugs

Another common mistake is if u change the dwell u will also change the crank timing
So a tuneup is plugs, set pionts set timing in that order...and set timing at 'all in' no vac advance...not at intial timing.
 
Wes,
Stupid question, but are the batteries in your dwell meter pretty old ? If so they might be giving you a false reading. Most dwell meters have a calibrate position for the resistance scale where you touch the 2 leads together and set the meter to "0" ohms. That is all the point condition reading is.
 
Way back in the old days when everything had points we always used Echlin brand. A salesman stopped by and talked us into trying Blue Streak brand. The Blue Streak brand lasted less than half the time the Echlin points did. My point is that you need to buy quality if you want good performance. Actually, it has been so long since I messed with points that I don't know if either brand is still available.
 
My 67 still has the original points distributor in it. I like points. I can change a set in 10 minutes. ALWAYS grease the cam to prevent premature wear on the rubbing block and set the dwell wide (32) and let it run down to 28, then reset to prevent arching due to not enough gap. And yes matched condenser with the points and buy high end parts. The cheap crap isn't worth the time to put in.
 
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