Check your timing - too far advanced will hinder cranking hot. Check the advance weights in the distributor to assure they are not stuck. Cars run better with a lot of advance in the timing, but don't start well. Initial timing of 10 to 12 degrees max is what I recommend, others don't agree.
Put the timing light on it while cranking to find out what you have.

 

Thank you! Literally tried that today. Father came over with his vintage timing light (he said he bought it in the 60s - it's like all chrome) and it didn't work. So, we kicked the timing a little bit and it somewhat helped, but not really. So, i'm going to get a new timing light and check it, possibly after i put a high torq starter in it. I think that can't hurt.

 

You should have some idea what your timing is.

 

Agree, but i don't know for sure as i did not get the timing gun working and didn't go through setting it. Updates in a week or two.

 

Maybe bigger AWG cables, min 1/0 AWG size.

 

Don't know where you are, can't loan you one of mine. You can always pull #1 plug and find TDC on the compression stroke. Then move the harmonic balance to the required timing or say 6 to 8 degrees BTC. Loosen the distributor and snap the points or the #1 plug by moving the distributor around until the points or spark plug #1 fires. Tighten the distributor at that point. This will get you close enough to see if it is timing.

 

Forgot: Also check the carburetor to see if the choke is stuck and / or the carb is flooding when you shut the engine off. Quadrajets had plastic floats back in the day and they soak up gas and sink. An engine needs more fuel to start when cold (choke closed) but cannot tolerated too much when hot (flooding out the plugs). Probably timing, but check it all out.

 

Hey there! So, update:

Bought new 1 gauge battery cables - this helped some. Wrapped the starter in heat wrap. So far, that has helped, but not totally. The car still is displaying symptoms. I have not had a chance to check the timing. Pops (my Father) came over with his timing light from 1961, and guess what....it didn't work lol. So, i'll be getting my own shortly.

Next, just tonight i installed another ground cable from the block to the body. Nice clean surfaces, etc. Maybe this will help.

Next, i have a high torq starter, that will go in next. But, im trying not to put one of those in.

 

oh, the Carb was rebuilt with the engine, So there better not be any leakage, etc...

 

It's time to stop swapping parts and start measuring voltage. Across the battery after sitting, and running, voltage to ground while cranking. If the ground cable doesn't go directly to the engine block move it there.

 

Might not be a bad idea to clean the paint off the block where the starter mounts.

Jeff

 

I don't think i did clean the spot where the starter mounts, however, i recall that is was a bit clean. You guy are totally right. The guy who put the motor in the car said that he did some testing, when the engine was warm (operating temp) there was a voltage drop - but, he didn't really get into what may have caused it.

As far as the parts, these were things I likely would have done anyway; so doing them wasn't a huge deal. There was a million other little things i fixed too. Next weekend, the mechanic said bring it over and he was going to fine tune things. He's more of a mechanic than i am, i can replace parts and fix things, but specific diagnosis isn't my strong suit.

 

I would start with a new battery.

 

The voltage dropping after it runs for a while / warms up comment from the mechanic is not very specific. That's pretty normal if it's in range since starting the car will drain the battery and then it charges hard for a while and lets up some after it reaches full charge. If it were me, I would check and get the actual voltages, you can report it here for comments.

Also, I would take the battery to a parts store and have them test it - most of them will do that and you will know right away how the cranking amps compare to spec for the battery.

If the voltage and battery pass the tests, you really need to go back to the timing and actually make sure it's set correctly with a light which from what I've read hasn't been done yet (but I might have missed it). You can spend quite a bit of money throwing parts at something that can be fixed without parts if you have the right tools sometimes. I'll rarely pass on an excuse to buy a new tool when I need it.

 

The voltage dropping after it runs for a while / warms up comment from the mechanic is not very specific. That's pretty normal if it's in range since starting the car will drain the battery and then it charges hard for a while and lets up some after it reaches full charge. If it were me, I would check and get the actual voltages, you can report it here for comments.

Also, I would take the battery to a parts store and have them test it - most of them will do that and you will know right away how the cranking amps compare to spec for the battery.

If the voltage and battery pass the tests, you really need to go back to the timing and actually make sure it's set correctly with a light which from what I've read hasn't been done yet (but I might have missed it). You can spend quite a bit of money throwing parts at something that can be fixed without parts if you have the right tools sometimes. I'll rarely pass on an excuse to buy a new tool when I need it.

Brand New Battery. And yes, he wasn't specific. More to come!!

 

Are you using an HEI distributor? If so, the centerplate of the mechanical advance mechanism may be installed upside down (even on a new HEI distributor).

When the HEI's centerplate is installed upside down, it causes some "sloppiness" in the mechanical advance mechanism at low engine rpm's... that may cause the mechanical advance weights to "over advance" when the engine is shut down.
When you try to start the car, you get slow cranking speeds because of too much initial advance caused by the condition mentioned above (especially when the engine is hot). If the centerplate is installed upside down, there is a good chance that you will see a very erratic timing when trying to set your initial timing at idle (no VA).

It might be worth a look... or post a photo of you mechanical advance weights (similar to below) for some feedback.
The centerplates and weights shown below are installed correctly for chevy engines (clockwise rotation).

Note: You do not need to remove the advance springs to check the position of the centerplate.
My photos are provided just for clarity.

 

Mike, this is awesome. This is something that I have not looked at. The distributor is new, so I would expect that it would be correct; however you are right not to trust that. I will take a look at this.

 

in other news, Classic Industries is making a damn living from me on parts....29.99 for the window switch....damn car

 

If you stop swapping parts rather than troubleshooting, you'll spend less money on parts.

 

Just to be clear, these were all parts that I intended on replacing anyway. So i'm glad I did it. As far as costs go, i spend like .001% of the cost of the engine. Regardless, you are correct. The troubleshooting is happening this weekend.

 

Next time engine is hot, jumper in another battery and observe cranking.
If better, need a larger battery, say 650 CCA's, and fully charged.
If the same as before, measure voltage from battery post to stud/bolt cable is connected.
Should be no less than -.5 volt drop. If more, wire brush does wonders and/or bigger battery cable.

 

Let go of your chrome space gun timing light and get a new reliable one. I recently had to finally toss my MAC timing light from the 70s. I bought a manual Innova timing light for $40. BTW doing static timing is a good way to set timing.

 

Well, here it is. New high torq starter solved it all. Put one in, starts every time. The compression must have just done that original starter in.

 

Just read through this thread....may I ask if the first replacement starter you tried was a rebuilt/re-manufactured unit (replaced usual wear parts) or completely new starter?

 

If you click on his avatar, you can see he hasn't been on the site in a year. Hard telling if you'll get a response.

Welcome to Team Camaro, Iron Eagle.

 

If you click on his avatar, you can see he hasn't been on the site in a year. Hard telling if you'll get a response.

Welcome to Team Camaro, Iron Eagle.

This is an old G/M problem from years ago. Assuming everthing with timing carb etc are all good . the solution was to use the biggest battery you could stuff in there with high CCA. Next ^ volt battery cables to carry the juice ,and lastly a HIGH TORQUE STARTER with four field coils. . I had this problem with my Camaro. i usef a group 27 batteryold caddy 6 volt cables and a starter out of a 427 chevy powered motor home . i had the starter rebuilt at ace generator service and it cured the problem . Alex

 

Thanks for the past couple replies. Appreciate the welcome. My starting issue is with my 89 Iroc. Will create a new post when I get a chance.

 

Long ago I had an issue with my 85 IROC. After driving turn key and NOTHING. Wait 20 minutes and all was well. PITA, always had to plan on staying wherever I was for at least 20 minutes. Starter was disconnecting itself inside when hot.