From what you describe, you need to increase the size of the filler's "footprint". Its typical to try to use as little filler as possible, but the reality of it is that you have sanded away too much of it, so that there is no longer a smooth transition from metal to filler. Re-fill the area, focusing on a wider, but thin area. Once you have rough cut the filler, spray a light mist coat of flat black paint (lacquer works really well cause it dries fast). Let the mist coat dry, then sand with your board. The mist coat will show you how straight the panel is as you go. Low spots will appear black. Once the black paint is all gone using the board, the surface should be fairly level. If you blow through to the metal again prior to or during sanding the guide coat, you need more filler plain and simple.Once the mist coat is gone, apply some wax and grease remover to the area to wet it. Quickly look down the side to see how straight she is.Once you've assessed this, dry the area quickly-this will clean the surface. If it is straight enough, prime, block and paint. If not, you need to add more filler and repeat the procedure until you are happy with it. Hope this helps. The area in this photo had to be blocked 5 times in total until I was happy with it. A car can never be too straight IMO.

 

Sorry for all the questions... I just want it right...

How far up from the lip do I need to go with the filler? Do I need to be conscious of the area next to it so I do not take too much off of that area as well?
What grit should I be using? ( Have been using 80)

It seems as though I havent sanded enough as I am able to move the line up and down by sanding on top or bottom...

Thanks for the help!

 

How far up from the lip is pretty subjective sometimes its an inch, sometimes it 4-5 inches. I can't stress enough that the guide coat will tell you how far you need to go. 80 grit is fine for your initial shaping.

 

looks like you should have hard blocked the clear also, lots of orange peel in that pic, try this on for size, a chevelle i just finished, blocked twice, guide coat is your friend, use 180 or so to finish and when checking for straightness.

 

looks like you should have hard blocked the clear also, lots of orange peel in that pic, try this on for size, a chevelle i just finished, blocked twice, guide coat is your friend, use 180 or so to finish and when checking for straightness.

DAMN!!! now thats straight!!

 

Nice paint job, she's straight as an arrow! How many coats of clear on the black paint job? Looks real nice.

BTW, my pics show how the paint came out of the gun (slight orange peel), prior to cutting and buffing. Here's a better pic of the finished product...

 

thats actually a forest green, but it is dark i will put up some more pics. i use standox and that is 2 coats of hs clear, hard blocked with 1000-1500-2000 then buffed.
the camaro came out real nice.

 

What is standox? Is that a type of paint or sandpaper? What brand is hs clear? I'm about to do another one in blue. Since its pretty dark, I'd love to be able to get close to how your Chevelle looks. Wish I still had that orange Camaro! Sold her last year. Thanks for any input you can send on your paint info.

 

standox is a paint brand, german to be exact, it and spies hecker come out of same building, and have similer products and technology, the hs is high solids and 2 coats of thi is like 4 of anyone elses, heres a pic of it out of the gun.
the standox is very high solids, which makes it more finicky but it works so so well and lasts, is not soft.

 

Man, you were sure able to lay it down smooth. Like shooting glass... I've never tried Spies , but might now. Did you overreduce a bit to get the high solids to flow like that?

 

no i did not over reduce, standox hs clear is 2-1-10% i always din cup my clear to 17 seconds, the hs flows and flows and flows, goes on orange peely then flows out real nice, the standox collision clears only flow for 20-30 seconds, as they are not made to go flat.
not sure of corrosponding part number in spies but ask for the hs clear i guess, i can do some looking, also i shot car with a sata nr2000 for base, then an iwata w400 for clear

 

wow, the camaro came out killer as well!

 

Thanks Cody.... came out pretty well for a "garage" paint job...

 

Thanks Cody.... came out pretty well for a "garage" paint job...

I need Bob to come spend some time in my garage too

 

The lines are pretty straight now. It has a very sharp edge but it is not perfectly straight. The panel is flat and the guide coat comes off evenly now..but looking down the side i can still see a little wavering in the lines.... Can i just use a high build primer and sand it down straight from there or am i destined to add more filler and start again?

I think I already now the answer......

 

bump

 

Bob, I have not seen (In my opinion) a nicer looking 1969 camaro in my life. You did an outstanding job. You must be a proud papa? No matter where that car was, if I had something like that I would have to see it everyday and thats why it would be in my livingroom and not in the garage. Sorry to gush but thats how Id like mine to turn out one of these days. Keep up the good work.