Joe,
The only studs that are installed finger tight are cylinder head studs and main cap studs. Once you torque the nuts on them they tighten up. On rocker arm studs, we usually torque them to 50lbft.
Hope this helps,

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Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner
1973 Z-28 ..one family car...Brother bought it new in 73

 

Thanks Bill.
I'll remember that.... 50lbft.

(didn't mean to include rods in original post!)

I appreciate it

 

Guys, I just fired my 327 this weekend- ran for about 5 min. and started hearing a tapping under the v-cover. So we shut 'er down, pulled the covers and sure enough close to half the screw in studs were backing out!! I totally overlooked torqing them when I put the engine together. Did them up to 50 lbs., fired it back up and did the 20 min @ 2000 and all is looking (and sounding) good.

 

BillK said, "The only studs that are installed finger tight are cylinder head studs and main cap studs. Once you torque the nuts on them they tighten up. On rocker arm studs, we usually torque them to 50lbft."

How do you torque studs that aren't finger tight? Put them in finger tight, thread the nut on all the way and torque? If so, how do you then get the nut off w/o backing the stud out?

Thanks,
Rob

 

Your better brand of screw-in studs will have a hex on the stud.

This allows to use a deep socket to torque studs in place. I'd suggest using a sealer on the threads, they do go into the water jacket.

I learned the hard way the first time, I had milk in the crankcase.

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Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph

 

Highwaystar,
There are many different manufacturers of small block Chevy screw in rocker studs. Moroso, ARP, Dorman, GM, Summit and many others. Here's the kicker, they're all different. I'm not talking 7/16" vs 3/8" studs, boviously those are different. If you order standard 3/8" studs with hex base from all these manufuacturers no two brands are the same. The overall lengths, depth that the threads extend down the shaft, hex base heights, hex head to stud radius, all these are different and in some cases very different. It can really mess things up. In some cases using the wrong one will cause you to run out of adjustment on your rockers or put the rocker arm too low on the stud to where you will have geometry problems or interference problems. A lot also depends on who machined the head for screw in studs and if they machined it the proper amount for the addition of guideplates. Don't go by the figures in How to Hot Rod SBCs. It doesn't call for removing enough material even when using guideplates. I've used them all, measured them all installed and the ARP allows for the most errors in maching and is the best for allowing maximum adjustments.
Dave

[This message has been edited by SY1 (edited 03-12-2002).]

 

I have Brodix Track 1 heads on my race car. They spec something like 35 ft lbs with red locktite for use with their heads because the rocker stud holes that are over the intake ports have slightly shorter thread depth engagement.
Ihad a stud come loose, it broke due to the hammering it got, the roller lifter came out of the bore and allowed the remaining lifter to spin around on the cam lobe.
Luckily the cam survived, but I had it reground.

I torqued them to 55 ft lbs now and no problems. I also converted to ARP studs, which are much better studs. I have seen some that wobble when you screw them in!
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page
First Gen Suspension Page
67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

 

My 3/8" ARP's get torqued to 45 ft/lbs per the directions.

 

Then they'll get torqued! Thanks all...



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Joe
WCA Member
HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
HwyStar@CarJunky.com
'69 wallet crusher
http://home.rochester.rr.com/hwystar/