I prefer Gabriel and Bilstein, I won’t buy Monroe ever again. Had a set on the back of my 57 Chevy and during its build, one of the shocks lost all its pressure. No clue about the others yet, I do have a set of KYB to go on the front of my 60 Pontiac but haven’t installed yet.

 

Might want to read this, lots of good suggestions on suspension upgrades including shocks.

FIRST GEN SUSPENSION

 

Might want to read this, lots of hood suggestions on suspension upgrades including shocks.

FIRST GEN SUSPENSION

Good info there for sure. I need to do more research and digest some info. Very interested in the Guldstrand mod. Thanks for the link! I know this forum doesn't have all the answers, there are technical resources out there like this linked page. This forum is just a way fo us to share that info, then come back with our results. Thanks again for that.

@DOUG G SA and DA for single or dual adjustable? I have a decent history racing quads, we used compression and rebound adjustable shocks, some even had high and low speed adjustments, also messed with the shim stacks. So I have some experience with high end shocks. For this car and my intended use, the Ride Tech shocks look really nice and are rebound adjustable. A little expensive but dont necessarily break the bank. May be a little over kill, but could be worth the investment, I like monotube shocks and have them on most of my vehicles, even an old F350.

Like I said, I am looking for a weekend cruiser, I want to drive it (with my wife in the car - haha). I am okay with a race car, but they arent much fun to cruise in, been there done that. Assuming everything stock is in good or new condition, the Guldstrand Mod, good shocks along with decent tires would probably give me what I need, a good ride and better/safer handling. I will consider a better spring too. The camber curve is kick a$$ with the GS mod, and more positive caster makes it track better on the highway, and steering returns to center better/quicker. The alignment specs are gold. I want to compare this mod to using the taller ball joints. Hoping to find similar info on the camber curve when using taller ball joints, I understand the ball joints wont give the caster improvement.

Very good info guys, thanks, I think you have me pointed in the right direction.

I am putting a game plan for this car together now. I'll start a new thread for that.

 

I am pleased with the KYB’s on mine. Ended up with Gas-A-Just in the rear & Excel-G in the front.

 

I would highly suggest SA or DA shocks to dial in the ride YOU want...one setting for the track and one for the street...only buy one shock Vs. a few or more to get what YOU want.

 

My car is a weekend driver also. I had Hotchkis drop coil springs and drop Hotchkis leaf springs with Koni Classic red shocks all the way around. The ride was just Ok. Just went with new qa1 coilovers up front. (need softer spring rate). But I wanted all the shocks to be the same brand so I got Qa1 single adjustment rear shocks set to lightest setting with the drop Hotchkis leaf springs. What a huge difference in ride in the back. Really didn’t want to spend that kind of money for rear shocks. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Now to swap my front springs.

 

I find a lot of guys spend a ton of money on modified suspension for cruising driving and they have nothing to compare to. My experience with more than 2 dozen of these cars has given me the opportunity to compare different set ups. 4 of my current Camaros have different combinations, and not a discernable difference in cruising and normal driving. The 99 Z-28 handles 90% like my 69 with the new parts in the following items. It will always be better than original. Start with wheels and tires. You would be surprised with the improvement if you go back original for most of it. Monroe, Gabriel, Delco and Koni are good shocks and reasonable cost, under $30 due to their large selling volume. Larger sway bar and poly or even rubber bushings. Coil overs are adjustable, most set it and forget it! They are shocks and springs and expensive. "The Huggar", Camaro selling point, sits low to begin with, but most redos are too high. Use the AIM to measure your car. Contact Eaton springs for the correct springs for your car and weight. I am not opposed to after market upgrades, it just depends on your objective and how much your wallet can take. Just my experience building these cars for cutomer satisfaction at a resonable price and enjoyment.

 

Monroe, Gabriel, Delco and Koni are good shocks and reasonable cost, under $30 due to their large selling volume.

I'd like to get some Koni shocks for under $30.00, can you tell me where?

 

QA1.

 

QA1 $142 or $284 for adjustable not that big a difference compared to others so says my neighbor on his 69 Chevelle. Close to $1200 with tax.

 

@The Camaro Guy agree 100%. Contrary to what I read a lot of on the site, the Camaro handles pretty good stock if everything is in good working order. I am not interested in tubular a arms or a new subframe. Stock stuff with some improvements are the plan. I started this with just a shock question but of course leads to suspension parts. I think the plan will be to freshen up the stock stuff, probably new springs - I like something close to stock with some stance, maybe a larger sway bar and decent shocks, that will be about it. Still researching the GS mod, jury still out on that.

 

I like something close to stock with some stance, maybe a larger sway bar and decent shocks, that will be about it.

Good luck on your journey!

I ended up doing GlobalWest upper control arms, Detroit swaybar in front, Hellwig swaybar in rear - and, the KYBs. The tubular upper arm replaced the original stamped one that was smacking the headers and they gave me some caster which gives some return to center feel.

 

Our car is a mostly original survivor. I’ve so far resisted the temptation to modify the car. However, I wanted to tighten the front end up.

I ordered the 1/2” tall ball joints and taller tie rod ends and upper A arm shafts that allow more caster for our 68 conv. I also ordered new BBC front springs (small block with AC), 1 1/4” front and 1” rear sway bars. I also got the 14” wheel disc brake kit.

Hope to finish up over the next few weeks, with a goal of being able to do 75-80 mph on the freeway, without the car darting all over.

 

I ordered the 1/2” tall ball joints and taller tie rod ends and upper A arm shafts that allow more caster for our 68 conv. I also ordered new BBC front springs (small block with AC), 1 1/4” front and 1” rear sway bars. I also got the 14” wheel disc brake kit.

Yeah I have been doing quite a bit of reading on this subject. I am in a very similar situation. Not sure I want to modify the subframe, but it is an option. From what I see now, I agree with you, it looks like this combination of parts can yield a decent improvement in drive ability with bolt on parts. If you have the time, please share the part numbers that you use and follow up here or start a thread, I would like more info and to see some pics please.

Are you using the Global West shafts?

I am not sold on BB springs yet, very interested in how yours turns out. I will do new springs, performance is the number one concern, but so is looks/stance. I may look into the aftermarket for springs, by contacting a spring company like Eaton as @The Camaro Guy mentioned above, his input is appreciated.

14" brakes are big, what size wheels are you using? I am guessing 17" or more... I think the Pro Touring look is cool and seems to be the latest thing, but to be honest, I like the "stock" look. IMO its hard to beat a staggered set of 15" rallys on a 67 or 68.

 

Those BBC coil springs will likely set the car very high. Is that the look you are shooting for?

Don

 

Shocks....I have Edelbrock which I believe are no longer available. Came on the car. If I had to replace shocks I would get Bilstein.

As for other suspension components, I just use MOOG replacement bushings, idler & tie rods and ball joints.

"Upgrades", just a 1 1/8" front sway bar, Summit brand.

Springs. My car has 14" mags so for me, and I am not a "car lowering guy" normally but I went with Ridetech Progressive front lowering springs (1 1/2" and 2" blocks in the rear The stance looks better to me vs the large gap between tire & fender I had

Ride is good but in comparison to a "new car"...well these 50+ year old pony cars are what they are. Steering is tight and I have no issues otherwise in its handling. I just drive it. For those who hit AutoX than morr modern, aggressive, suspension set ups...YMMV

 

I have Edlebrock IAS shocks for over 15 years (<1500 miles). I saw an earlier post, they may be discontinued? That would be a shame. I have 1968 Convertible 327, PST polygraphite bushings, 15" factory rally steel wheels, Global west 2" lowering springs, AGR rebuilt power steering box -- everything else is stock original. The car, like yours, is not drag raced, autocrossed, etc. - it's an extremely smooth, but firm ride and handles like an early 2000's car. Love the shocks, the ride, the handling, and no disappointments.

 

My 67 came with them. I had them on another car also and like them better than Bilstein's. YMMV

 

I’m in the same situation as ridesdirt and some others… Recently purchased a 50k original SB manual 67…
While I love the simplicity of the manual steering, manual drum brakes and overall “unmolested-ness” of the car, there’s a limit as what I can live with - as I plan on driving the car a fair bit.
I’ve read every post I can re. suspension and mods and upgrades and there are lots (!) of opinions!
I really think it comes down to what each owner is used to - if someone has only driven old trucks, my car probably would feel like a Ferrari…! For those that have enjoyed a car with a well engineered performance chassis / suspension I think spending the $$$ on higher quality shock absorbers might be worth it as your hopes and expectations may be higher.
I’ve owned a fair number of exotics and sports cars (still do), and while I have no desire for this to be that, it will need some definitive work before I’m happy. It’s pretty worn and sloppy.

The goal is to utilize stock components as much as possible to save $$$, and be smart with mods. A lowered stock appearance - retaining the 15 inch RS wheels…
I was surprised recently when I saw a 69 Z28 that sold on BringATrailer not long ago - a pure track car that has a long - and recent - successful road-race history with a relatively stock chassis (stock A arms, no subframe connectors, leaf springs..). It’s worth a look.

I do not want a rigid track car, but can tolerate a bit of stiffness - knowing that frame stiffness is completely different than spring stiffness(!). The goal for me is a more rigid chassis so I can use a little less spring rate and utilize shock adjustment to have a firm-ish compliant ride…
First for me is replacing the squishy 55 year old rubber every where - starting with the subframe mounts. I will likely use poly or ? but no rubber.
Next is to lower the ride height 2-3 inches. My plan is 2inch drop spindle and fine tune with a QA1 single adjustable Coilover. I like the QA1s because the single adjuster controls compression and rebound not just rebound… And the price and quality looks good. Folks seem to like them. Rear springs I’m between Hotchkis and Detroit. Need to decide on 2 or three inch overall drop before moving forward.
Still researching spring rates. Pozzi’s site suggests 500-550 up front for a street car - that’s double the factory rate and seems a bit high to me…
Unlike some other muscle cars, the geometry of the factory A arms seems pretty good, so no fancy tubular arms for me - but I will want investigate the strength of the shock attach point on the lower arm before mounting a coilover … I’m leaning toward the taller ball joint with drop spindle over the Guldstrand mod.
Probably Hotchkis for sway bars and that’s it -
Replace the rubber, springs that are stiffer and reduce the roll center, quality adjustable shocks… A good start and then we’ll see. Next might be quick (manual) steering box… Thoughts?

Brakes are (actually higher) on the list - is anyone running four wheel discs without power brakes??
I do like simple…

 

I’m in the same situation
I plan on driving the car a fair bit.
I’ve read every post I can re. suspension and mods and upgrades and there are lots (!) of opinions!
The goal is to utilize stock components as much as possible
Next might be quick (manual) steering box… Thoughts?
Brakes are (actually higher) on the list
I do like simple…

We started at the same place, are traveling down the same path, and coming up with the same conclusions. This will be an ongoing project for me (as it is for most) because I want to continue to drive my car. My car rolls, steers and stops pretty good now and I have a few things in front of rebuilding the suspension and brakes. Should be a pretty active year for me with these improvements. Keep us posted on your choices and I will too.

 

I switched from KYB to Koni 1 year ago because the KYBs were too harsh.

I have a set of Koni Classic (red, adjustable) on my 67 Camaro and they are a big improvement.

I just got a set of the Hotchkis 1.5 SPS shocks to try and further refine the ride. I think the hardest items to tame are the 2 inch front lowering springs (600 lbs).

Konis are warrantied for life and I would be willing to let them go for $30 each.

 

If you still have the Konis, I’d be very interested in the fronts at $30 each + shipping costs…
I’m in Dallas.
Msg me if you like and we can exchange info

m