[68camaroz28]

Had to remove the black plastic knobs to enable chroming of the handles which I mentioned and completed months ago. Bill Lacy had an excellent article in NCRS’ “Corvette Restorer” volume 39, number 3, winter 2013 on how to remove and replace the knobs back on. He described in the article how to utilize a 3/8 diameter drill to drill out the penned head holding the knob to the handle, drilling out the knob with a 11/64” drill 7/16” deep and then using 3/16 X 1/2” pop rivets to re-install.
Knock out the stem from the pop rivet body:


Drill out the knob as aforementioned with the 11/64" drill.


Put the wave and flat washer on the knob as inserted through the handle and tap the 3/16 rivet in place.


Used a small amount of Novus #2 plastic polish on the O.D. of the knobs and bingo they looked new.

 

[DDZ28]

Chick, thanks for the info on the handle knobs.

 

[kettbo]

I love your thread Chick!

 

[68camaroz28]

Need to get working back on the Z! :yes:
As many of you know the Camaro/Nova T3 repro headlight sets are not available anymore and when supplies run out for the 4 bulb (Corvette, etc.) they will be extinct also since Wagner is not making for Lectric Limited. So for restorations that desire the correct headlight its becoming more and more difficult to obtain. I have our original two from our 01B Z and both have Oct. 1967 ink build dates on them but I had never tested them so this update is on how to test, what might happen, what might assist with longevity, and my test results. The bulbs are easy to check by using a 12V battery and two leads, one from the NEG and one from the POS. Our Camaro low/high beam lights have three prongs. The one in the middle is ground or where the NEG wire is attached. By attaching the POS lead to either of the other prongs your either turning on the low beam or high beam. Here is a picture of the prongs sides marked with H and L to know which one is which. The silicone is something I do but not sure if it helps at all but it cannot hurt either. I clean the posts with alcohol prior and the coat with some silicone.

I tested 7 original T3 bulbs and both my originals tested fine (yea) so that was the good news and my originals have little if any road rash or dis-coloration. If your looking at a used one and it has a lot of dis-coloration at the top (blue-ish) let it go IMO.


Two of the bulbs I tested smoked immediately and they were purchased thru ebay but the good news is the seller refunded my money 100%. Bad news when this happens! Here is my hook up checking low beam but not good! She lit up but immediately started to smoke inside the globe.


And the results!


Note that long after the test the smoke has not cleared inside the T3 bulb.


The good news is 5 of 7 were OK and can be used especially with the originals from our 68Z going back in.

 

[COPO]

With the dead ones, you should rig up a Halogen replacement type
bulb unit in the back by cutting it open with a glass cutter?
I have H4 Hella lights in my 70 and there's no gas in the unit.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interi...ow-to/interior-electrical/1006rc-t3-lenses-to-t4-halogen-reflectors-conversion/

not mine

mine

 

[68camaroz28]

Received a real Christmas gift beginning of this week from our local Chevrolet Parts Man. You see, I was trying to obtain 2 later service replacement wiper blades in hope of using the rubbers only to restore two correct older wiper blades. As it turned out the original part # is now no longer available and a new # took its place or in other words, another new version service replacement. There were 4 dealerships showing the older numbered service replacement so my friend the parts man I've worked with for 30 plus years checks the dealerships and we have two of them send in what they have. What happened was one dealership sent an old GM box of two correct original NOS wiper blades. Trico and made in USA is on both ends of wiper blade! Merry Christmas to me. :
Here is the box with the two blades and the box on the other side showing someone marked them Nov1975. Now what are the chances they would hang in a dealership that long????



Correct wiper blade to the right. Note the Trico made in USA and how the blade is somewhat beveled.


Correct blade on bottom vs. later service replacement on top.



The beveled top correct blade vs. later service replacement.

 

[ZLP955]

Great detail photos Chick, will have to check mine now!

 

[Garfields Maro]

Great detail photos Chick, will have to check mine now!

X2, I Know mine are Trico, but have a little red release button on there somewhere....I forget what it does, exactly..?

 

[Garfields Maro]

...crickets....so I take it you guys don't have a red "button" (nubbin) on yours ?

Guess I need to get picture...

 

[68L30]

For those that have followed this build thread you might remember our car was purchased from Rodger Dean Chevrolet in Charleston, WV Jan. 23, 1968. While up at the GM Nationals Carlisle solid lifter display I had the good fortune to meet and spend quality time with Steve Frys who has just an incredible collection of Chevrolet and dealer memorabilia. One of great things about our hobby is we have the opportunity to meet great people from all walks of life that have the same interest. Steve has a car that came from Rodger Dean also so he had collected a few items and had an extra Rodger Dean scripts and surprisingly out of the clear blue Steve says I have something for you and gives me the one he had on display. That my friends is a person who loves the hobby and its not all about making a buck.
Steve, thank you friend!

I guess I need to check in here more often...

Thanks for the kind words Chick, it was my pleasure. Car is looking stellar! It was nice meeting you at SLS and talking again at MCACN. I'm looking forward to seeing another Dean 68 completed.


Steve

 

[KevinW]

subscribed for detail reading later

 

[DDZ28]

Finished installing both sides of the astro ventilation yesterday and had indicated more on that forthcoming so here goes in case anyone else runs into this.
First off, tried trial fitting the Astro Ventilation Assembly which included new bezels and vent balls and everything else was original including the vent felts. Placed the new astro ball in the new bezel and tried to snap the assembly together. Wow, no way was it going to go together! Placed the old vent ball into place and it was a squeeze but it would assemble and also noticed the old vent ball seated farther in then the new vent ball. Umm, that told me something was amiss with the diameter. Let’s check them out! Yikes, the new vent ball is approximately .04” larger in diameter. Does not sound like much but huge in assembly.

Old One

New One



Ended up filling away some of the original felt so the new vent ball would assemble. Just to note I had returned one set and ordered another pair of vent balls only to find the same diameter within .001 to .002” of an inch. Surely others have had this issue.



Assemble the astro vent assy in the LH side with a smile and go to screw on the knob with the new small plastic grommet in place and the knob binds immediately. Tear the assembly back out, take the small ferrule back out and make sure its oriented correctly which it is (has a notch so it only goes one way) and place the knob inside the ferrules hole and the knob is on an extreme angle. No wonder it’s binding! Take a rat tail file and file a path in the I.D. of the ferrule and finally that is fixed so if you put one of these together be prepared or maybe it was just my luck of the draw.

Chick, can I ask what the book is that you have showing the exploded view of the Astro vents?

 

[Rider69]

Dan that's the GM parts manual
that GM dealers used to order parts...in the old days!

 

[1968 Z28]

Dan, here are a couple of links. One to the same info Chick posted and the other is to the main page showing the contents of the entire manual.

1968 Astro Vent link - http://www.chevyinfo.net/parts_books/camaro_1967-73_parts_book/illustration/camaro_1967-73_illustrations_09.pdf

1967-1973 Camaro Parts Manual Main Site - http://www.chevyinfo.net/?page_id=455

 

[68camaroz28]

Sorry about the late reply but noted days ago Dan your question was quickly replied to.
Correction-Correction-Correction-
Earlier I had posted pictures of wiper blades found in an out of state dealership that were correct for our car. For this communication I'm going to call them "semi-peaked"


After more review that information was incorrect and the correct wiper blades would be the what's called "peaked" version with "made in USA" stamped at both ends.


Here are 4 wiper blades from different time periods. From bottom to top, Peaked type blade, Semi-Peaked blade, Trico flat blade used in late 70's, and the last of part #3899508 which was Semi-Peaked in design and made in Mexico which has no Trico stamping.


For our 68Z restoration the "Peaked" Trico with stamped "made in USA" will be used but interesting that I found both our 69 L78 Nova Survivor and friends low mileage 69 Camaro Survivor with the "semi-peaked" stamped with "made in USA" wiper blades, as what I first thought was correct for our 68. What will be interesting to know is when did the semi-peaked version start to be used.
Now concerning the rubber blade itself! I believe this type of blade is correct and was used for many years so finding them is not difficult. I found what seemed to be the same type on all of the Trico types reviewed except the later service replacements made in Mexico. But my reviews were of course limited so not sure when the change took place. If anyone knows please let us know.


A closer picture of the last of the service replacements as this is no longer available.


Note the date on the blade and absence of the three grooves in the rubber.

 

[HawkX66]

I don't know if it helps you to have another example or not, but here are the originals off my 08D 69 Camaro. It looks like you're referring to them as "semi peaked." I like the details you're getting into.

 

[1968 Z28]

Hi Chick.....FYI, my car has the peaked blade assemblies with the TRICO and MADE IN USA on both ends. The rubber inserts don't have manufacture markings on them so I'm sure they have been replaced.

The parts manual states to use the TRICO rubber insert (#3819074, 14 7/8" long) on the TRICO blade assembly. I would check your ANCO rubber inserts to be sure they are the right length for the TRICO blade assemblies. I can't find any reference to an ANCO 14 7/8" insert.

 

[68camaroz28]

Hi Chick.....FYI, my car has the peaked blade assemblies with the TRICO and MADE IN USA on both ends. The rubber inserts don't have manufacture markings on them so I'm sure they have been replaced.

The parts manual states to use the TRICO rubber insert (#3819074, 14 7/8" long) on the TRICO blade assembly. I would check your ANCO rubber inserts to be sure they are the right length for the TRICO blade assemblies. I can't find any reference to an ANCO 14 7/8" insert.

Thanks as always Jerry (Jerry's been a good friend & helper) for both knowing your car had peaked blades and the Trico Rubber insert info.
I should have elaborated on that more dang it! I have found several instances of Anco blades on Trico metal blade assemblies. For many of us that view the CRG note that Danny had this picture of his Anco rubber blade that was with his Trico peaked assemblies. Same as what I posted except the "Anco" & patent number are raised on the one I happened to post and embedded on what Danny posted. That might be due to him scanning the blade or some means that gives a false impression.


What I posted:


I cannot believe that Trico blade assemblies from the factory had Anco rubber blade inserts but it is surprising in the small review I've done that the dominant rubber blade is Anco. Here is a picture of the Anco length that fits perfectly in the Trico assembly. Measures about 14 3/4".


The rubber blades on the NOS semi-peaked Trico "made in USA" both ends we recently reviewed have no Trico markings on them but have this marking.


Checking out that made in Mexico semi-peaked blade assembly-


I noted the rubber blade had an "Anco" stamping.

 

[68camaroz28]

Another interesting point involves a pair of GM 3819074 wiper re-fills I purchased in 2003 (not sure how old they were upon purchase) which seem to mirror the rubber on the NOS Trico semi-peaked wiper assemblies. The one difference is the metal tang used to lock the refill into position is different from the much older Trico pieces. The top rubber refill is one of the 38919074 pcs. Note also the newer refill has the spine type back but not the older Anco or Trico blades that I have.

 

[68camaroz28]

Our 68 Z/28 as other 68 Camaro’s utilized Wiper motor #5045441. Not sure of actual change date but 69’s utilize Wiper motor #5045572. Both are easy to identify with their end plates being part number stamped.

Our 68 along with other 5045572’s observed have a yellow ink stamping giving both the Julian day and year. I have noticed that stamping size and character type can vary due to possible number of stamps used along with time periods. Our stamping was “35167” or 12/18/67 (Monday). The stamping size was approximately .25” in height.

I want to give ample credit to Moderator KevinW who assisted me with information both on tooling used and some additional help for testing. For tooling its simple and basic but let’s just say tedious and one cannot be in a rush. I used three tools, a broken tapered punch placed in a vise to place in each hole I was trying to pry the 4 ears back, a punch ground to give a sharp angle for working each ear up, and a normal punch to complete. This shows the broken tapered punch in a hole getting ready to pry those darn ears up.

Its time consuming but taking your time can be crucial to having desired results. Kevin told me, you can pry them up and put back down but a 2nd prying up they will normally break off. Here are a couple after prying up.

After you pry them all up I was advised to use a putty knife and work around each hole to pry the plate off which worked well. After motor review cleaning, brushes, etc. my next step was to check the motor and again used Kevin’s electrical schematic. Fortunately I had the old wiring harness so took that with a wiper switch Lonny gave me to use and bingo had a means to check and park the wiper motor.

Here is my simple set up utilizing the aforementioned parts of original wiring harness. To clarify, the pos from the battery goes directly to the one post on the wiper motor. A ground goes to the switch and also to the motor.


After testing it was time to attach the back half. First off was to place the ground strap back in position and by the way, the one that comes in the repro kit is different. The original is to the right which I used.

Now showing the strap in place I carefully worked each of the tangs back thru each hole and clamped the two sections together. This time I used the tapered punch to push thru from the front to start the tangs journey back down and finished with a normal punch. This is how they generally looked after being put back in place.



If I had it to do all over I would have just taken the front plate off and checked things inside, tested, cleaned and painted as mine needed nothing but a little inside cleaning. I'm still looking for some yellow ink to complete placement of the 35167 date stamp. And again a special thanks to Kevin!