[CodyDog]

Has anyone sanded out the wear marks and spots and treated with some type of chemical finish or such? I'm assuming once I remove the original finish, they will be prone to rusting.

Looked at replacing them but based one what I read. You basically have to remove the windshield trim and other pieces.

 

[dhutton]

Media blast, quality epoxy primer then 2k top coat applied in the epoxy primer recoat window for best adhesion.

You could apply filler over the epoxy in the recoat window if you want to smooth them. Then epoxy and 2k topcoat.

 

[CodyDog]

Media blast, quality epoxy primer then 2k top coat applied in the epoxy primer recoat window for best adhesion.

You could apply filler over the epoxy in the recoat window if you want to smooth them. Then epoxy and 2k topcoat.

Thanks for the reply. Great information.

 

[Sauron67MM]

It needs to be chrome plated and part of it painted satin silver if you want it to be as it was originally. The repro ones do not fit well unless they have improved their manufacturing.

 

[tp_smith]

Be careful with the Philips head screws. I had to drill mine out due to rust.

I don't know if you can still see the chrome part of the header molding. It is just at the bottom ends. The rest is a dull silver.

This is the closest match I could find in a rattle can paint.

Here is a test of the color of paint out in the sunlight. I sprayed the original header molding on the right bottom side. You can see the tape line.

Under fluorescent lights.

 

[CodyDog]

Be careful with the Philips head screws. I had to drill mine out due to rust.

I don't know if you can still see the chrome part of the header molding. It is just at the bottom ends. The rest is a dull silver.

View attachment 338221



This is the closest match I could find in a rattle can paint.


View attachment 338223







View attachment 338224


Here is a test of the color of paint out in the sunlight. I sprayed the original header molding on the right bottom side. You can see the tape line.

View attachment 338222



Under fluorescent lights.

View attachment 338227

Thanks for the info and pics.

 

[CodyDog]

Be careful with the Philips head screws. I had to drill mine out due to rust.

I don't know if you can still see the chrome part of the header molding. It is just at the bottom ends. The rest is a dull silver.

View attachment 338221



This is the closest match I could find in a rattle can paint.


View attachment 338223







View attachment 338224


Here is a test of the color of paint out in the sunlight. I sprayed the original header molding on the right bottom side. You can see the tape line.

View attachment 338222



Under fluorescent lights.

View attachment 338227

Did you use a clear coat. Is , which one?

 

[tp_smith]

Did you use a clear coat. Is , which one?

I did not use clear coat. Duplicolor is an old style lacquer paint that is single stage. The header is painted a dull color so that it does not allow sun to reflect off of it and blind the driver.

You really need to prepare the surface correctly before painting. If it still has chrome underneath, it needs to be scuffed for the primer and filler to stick. I used 120, 230 then 400 grit sandpaper and a red scotchbrite pad.

 

[Sauron67MM]

If you go to CRG it will be found that some were only partially painted at the top inside, leaving the exposed leading edge chrome. Obviously the exposed sides were not painted. To prep for paint, I just mask and toss them in my cabinet and give them a light blast. Easy.

 

[CodyDog]

Went with a full satin finish. Missing the chrome band across the bottom (original) due to limited resources. Dismantle several pieces to determine if I could actually remove the header moldings but decided to stop at the point where it would have become a bigger project than I wanted to get into to.

 

[bondora68]

I have 2 pairs of rusty originals if anyone needs them to restore...