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Glad you let people know about this. Too bad parts can't be made right the first time though and peoples is safety is put at risk for the sake of a buck or two. Very sad.....as you said the rest seems to be nice but the part that makes or breaks these control arms is junk!! Just how much moey can be saved b buying lesser part? I guess it depends on the part manufacture. It's still out on these and it could be an isolated case but if it's not the cost can be extrorinary over a set of Real DSE arms. We all have to be very carefull in todays market of cheap parts, buyer beware and I wish all of you that have these arms the best of luck and most of all I hope they don't fail when it matters most if they ever do at all!!!!
 
This is the response I got from the company I bought mine from.

"Yes. One of the later lots did have defective bushings which have since been corrected. I think the a-arms you purchased were from the first lot which I haven't heard had any problem"

They said I can call Monday about replacement parts.

Doug
 
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Seeing I really have no idea if the ones on my arms are bad or not I'm going to ask for new ones.

I really like these arms and can't wait to use them.
 
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Updated news on my arms. I talked to the company that I bought mine from and they will send me the replacement slugs.

So cheap arms and yes a problem but they are fixing it. So far I still like the arms for the price.
 
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Updated news on my arms. I talked to the company that I bought mine from and they will send me the replacement slugs.

So cheap arms and yes a problem but they are fixing it. So far I still like the arms for the price.
It's good to hear they are standing behind them. :thumbsup:
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Update...I recieved my new slugs today and they are of much better Quality.Upon close examination of the old versus the new I noticed the new one's are thicker (about a 32nd") and actually make contact at the center of the shaft.The old one's did not meet and thus the load was placed on the lip with the resulting failure.
If you have arms that you had to ENLARGE the hole in the slug to recieve the stock bolts,those are the bad one's..DO NOT USE..the replacements do not need to be enlarged and fit the bolts very snuggly as they should.
The replacements are noticably better made and are powder coated and fit in the shaft tight,no need for the tie straps to hold them in.
I see someone heard there was of run of bad slugs on some sets and has since been corrected...Be SURE and check to see you were not as lucky as me to get one.The clue above is a dead givaway.
Other than that,the Arms are very,very nice and I'm happy with them.

One more thing,I changed my upper ball joint bolts to 7/16" grade 8 and prevailing torque nuts and tossed the 10mm with the nylock nuts..probably would have been ok but the later fits without modification.
 
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Off subject abit but can the stock arms come off with the motor in the car and headers installed? Seems tight.
 
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Off subject abit but can the stock arms come off with the motor in the car and headers installed? Seems tight.
I think that's going to depend on the header you have. Mine would be very close but each time I have had them off the engine was out. You could just remove motor mount bolts and jack up the engine if they will not clear.

Joe
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I think that's going to depend on the header you have. Mine would be very close but each time I have had them off the engine was out. You could just remove motor mount bolts and jack up the engine if they will not clear.

Joe
All you have to do is tap the mounting bolts out.They have a serrated shaft that locks in the hole so they won't spin.Apply some penetrating oil and let soak for a few hours,inspect the bolts closely as they are often rusted and replace with new ones available from major suppliers as they ARE special bolts.It is probably impossible to remove the Arms with headers,no matter what brand,without removing the bolts.Jacking up the motor and disconnecting the exhaust is way to much work..:noway:..
 
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I finally went to the alignment shop to get my 67 aligned with the high tech uppers and lowers. The alignment went off with very few "hitches" and is even side to side as to the number of shims. A word of advice if you haven't had them aligned yet. I installed the "buttons" or slugs as they were mentioned in this post with the lip facing toward the shims. I was thinking that since I had a stack of at least 4 good sized shims that the lip would eliminate at least one or more shims. Well that strategy failed as the tech actually needed to mount the arm flush to the frame to get 0 degrees camber. I ended up with -1.1 and it should be OK for a bit. I want to rotate the slugs so that the flat spot is toward the frame. All in all it was a nice, clean, easy job and it rode great. Also, the slugs were installed so the upper arm was shifted toward the rear of the camaro. That's supposed to help with caster settings and better handling. I can take pics if anyone is interested in seeing my installation.
 
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I've followed this thread with interest, as I have a '67 I want to build on a "budget." After considering all my options, it appeared to me that the best bang for the buck was the SC&C UCA and tall balljoint option. None of the tubular arms do anything to correct the geometry issues with the first generation F-bodies other than get you more caster. The SC&C UCAs and tall ball joints both get you the caster and correct the camber curve on our cars. Sure, you still need to get decent bushings for the LCA, but for the same money, you actually improve the handling of the car. Maybe not as sexy to the casual tire kicker, but it'll prove itself on the road or track.
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
I finally went to the alignment shop to get my 67 aligned with the high tech uppers and lowers. The alignment went off with very few "hitches" and is even side to side as to the number of shims. A word of advice if you haven't had them aligned yet. I installed the "buttons" or slugs as they were mentioned in this post with the lip facing toward the shims. I was thinking that since I had a stack of at least 4 good sized shims that the lip would eliminate at least one or more shims. Well that strategy failed as the tech actually needed to mount the arm flush to the frame to get 0 degrees camber. I ended up with -1.1 and it should be OK for a bit. I want to rotate the slugs so that the flat spot is toward the frame. All in all it was a nice, clean, easy job and it rode great. Also, the slugs were installed so the upper arm was shifted toward the rear of the camaro. That's supposed to help with caster settings and better handling. I can take pics if anyone is interested in seeing my installation.
Yes,that is true..mount the arms with the recessed lug toward the wheel so you can get max adjustment if needed.If you don't its like having 2 shims installed already.And yes,install the slugs so the arms lean to the rear,otherwise they end up with the stock castor position.
With -1.1 you will definatly end up with inside tire wear on the street,once you rotate the shafts you will get the recomended -1/4* negative camber easily.
 
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I've followed this thread with interest, as I have a '67 I want to build on a "budget." After considering all my options, it appeared to me that the best bang for the buck was the SC&C UCA and tall balljoint option. None of the tubular arms do anything to correct the geometry issues with the first generation F-bodies other than get you more caster. The SC&C UCAs and tall ball joints both get you the caster and correct the camber curve on our cars. Sure, you still need to get decent bushings for the LCA, but for the same money, you actually improve the handling of the car. Maybe not as sexy to the casual tire kicker, but it'll prove itself on the road or track.
Same Arms I plan to buy. They have avery cool industrial fabricated look to them I think.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Motorcat do you have or can you take a picture of how you have yours installed. It would be very helpful.

Thanks
Wrooster
I'm sorry but I can't rite now..something is wrong with my camera or the usb cable as I can't get the computer to recongize? I'll mess with it some more when I get a chance.I might have to wait untill my son comes home from college around turkey day to check it out...:(..
 
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Same Arms I plan to buy. They have avery cool industrial fabricated look to them I think.
X 2 I love Sc&C I have spoken to them a few times and thier awesome. They cater to more function then Bling which I admire as well.

I plan on using the ATS talls and the SC&C. Ilike what the spindle brings to the tabe (weight savings and caliper mounts)

:hurray:
 
I've read threads like this for months trying to determine how to improve my 68 Z-28. I bought the SC&C upper arms, tall ball-joints and tall tie rod ends. That box arrived last week. The Bilstein shocks came the week before and the Helwig 1" front bar today. Now I'll order the Eibach springs and a set of longer tie rod sleeves and then take a day or two off in November to install all this. Mark at SC&C is a tremendous resource and I'm quite comfortable that I'm on the right track. The SC&C arm provide the adjustment I'll need and they are a very robust design and build quality. I'll post when I get this sorted out and aligned.
 
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