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z28red

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ive read alot of the same problems Im having, and it sounds like It may be the heater core. The problem is, temp gage began going up, when car accelerated, gage would go back to normal in 2 seconds. Car does not run bad, idle rough, smoke,smell hot, or like antifreeze, nothing at all. Just, no heat, only blowing cold air. Cooling fans are working, heater still blows air out, (not warm air)air conditioner is fine. Antifreeze is dirty. Nothing in oil to make the color change to a milky shade.
I took this car to have a chevrolet service dept look at it, one that I honestly am not sure of, due to it being close to where I now live.
They did a block test, exhaust was getting into cooling system. Asked if they did a pressure test, No. Check thermostat, no, but they were sure it was opening and closing, (???bad answer) I asked if there was any signs of antifreeze on the motor, I got this answer, " well, your antifreeze is dirty". The only solution this person wanted to give me, replace the engine. They have not investigated the problem any farther except the block test. I did ask if it could be a gascket problem, "he didnt think so, and if i replaced that, I didnt know how much longer the car would last, even if I found this is my one and only problem with the car at this time". Okay, no problems were ever mentioned to me of what this could be, just that i need to replace the engine. The car has not had any smoke, no running bad, absolutely no symptoms, just my heat gage going up while stopped.
I am a female who has owned 4 camaros in the past, i feel this person didnt know what they were doing, and/or didnt care, and were just trying to replace the engine and all should be solved. I did say to him, so i am supposed to get a new engine ( a used one) install it for the estimate of around $8000.00, with a 90 day warranty for parts. So, at 91 days, what happens if this engine does blow up?? He never expected any of the questions I asked him, and it was obvious he was trying to manipulate my decision and make me think this was the problem, and this was the solution. He said they hadnt got as far as to check the gaskets, and didnt offer to do so. Im taking my car back to my regular chevrolet dealership friday.
Who also told me, this didnt sound like a good judgement for this person to make for my car. And, I trust them fully. 50 miles from where Im at now, is the reason I didnt take it there to start with. Can anyone help with your opinions on this? Please? I honestly do not feel the engine needs to be replaced, they have not did any tests or investigated the problem, only the block test and thats what they are going with.
 
Vicki: I have the exact same problem with my 69 SS 396/350. I even make sure I get to car shows early so I dont have to sit in idle too much. does your car have a 302? I don't know too much about motors, so I'll be checking in to see what some of these guys say. I'm stunned someone would suggest a new motor.. although I did have the same situation many years back with a caddy- once they found out it was a company car and I had a company credit card, they told me I needed 4 new tires. sounds like the same mindset with this mechanic.
 
AAAAHHHHH....lol....87 IROC-Z. SAME EXACT PROBLEM. I flushed the system, myself, replaced with good anti-freeze and car wouldnt heat up at idle anymore. It would alittle bit if I sit long enough, but wouldnt get hot in daily driving situations anymore. sometimes, like me, the radiator fins need to be cleaned and straightened.
Also, on this model (3rd gen) cars, there is a valve in the system that closes and wont let warm fuild into the heater core. Its in the engine compartment and is connected into the heater core hoses on the passenger side. Ill bet this is your other problem. IIRC, it has 2 vaccum lines hooked to it. Some of them may be electrical. Dont exactly remember.
Let us know how it turns out. AND PLEASE come here first before you do any major work. None of us want you to spend your hard earned money needlessly. :D
 
The problem is, temp gage began going up, when car accelerated, gage would go back to normal in 2 seconds.
For a starter that is classic symtom of the re enforcing inside the bottom water hose gone

Just, no heat, only blowing cold air.....heater still blows air out, (not warm air)
Heater blocked?? from renforcing above?? or the vac water to it, the insides have broken away??..blocked the hose??

Antifreeze is dirty
Sounds like a long time since the cooling sysyem has been serviced and checked out maybe...which would lead to the above

They did a block test, exhaust was getting into cooling system.
Hmm, I woould head off to a local garage as them to do a hydrocarbon test the radiator...takes a couple minutes, thing clamps to the radiator inlet, has a fliud in it, they suck a bit of air out of the radiator while engine is running thru a fluid and if it changes colour. a cracked head or blown head gasket....near means a new engine, and if it was the case the engine would be running hot all the time.

Check thermostat, no, but they were sure it was opening and closing,
The engine would need to be cold, like real cold, fire up and whatch how the temp gauge moves to tell, if they dont remove from the block and test in a jug

gascket problem, "he didnt think so, and if i replaced that, I didnt know how much longer the car would last, even if I found this is my one and only problem with the car at this time".
Before gong any further he should pull the plugs and read them, do a compression test, oil presure test and that would THEN tell him IF the engine is ok...ANYTHING short of that there is no way he could make such a comment

Im taking my car back to my regular chevrolet dealership friday.
Before doing so, squeeze the bottom radiator hose, If soft replace it, and while it is off, blast the garen hose thru the radiator, put the new hose on, and refill the cooling system with 50/50 water and anti freeze
 
Vicki

1st Welcome to Team Camaro:thumbsup:

Sounds like your ride needs a good coolant flush and probably has a stuck heater bypass valve.
Both are a easy fix.
BTW
Don't ever go back to that repair shop
Idiots!
 
Welcome to the club!

With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and check color of coolant.
Brown(sludge)? Dexcool with air mixed in, looks like sludge - leak in coolant system somewhere.
Orange? Dexcool without air mixed - good tight system - no leaks.
Green? Regular coolant, i.e., Prestone, store brand, ethlyene glycol.
Remember the color. Alittle bit of sludge on the cap is okay, but alot of sludge in the radiator is not. Alot of sludge, coolant system needs flushing to clean out the sludge.

See the symbol on the temp gauge? This is the cooling system symbol. Go to the engine compartment and look for the coolant reservior having the same symbol.

If the reservior is empty, as suggested, fill it with 50/50 antifreeze of the color found in the radiator. Remove radiator cap and fill it, pour some more into the reservior to just above the COLD LINE. Watch for the level to change.

Fans should come on with A/C or DEFrost selected as they are controlled by the PCM if a late model Camaro.

As suggested, find another shop. I don't think there is anything major wrong with the present engine, but then I'm and others here, are not present to witness first hand.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Vicki: I have the exact same problem with my 69 SS 396/350. I even make sure I get to car shows early so I dont have to sit in idle too much. does your car have a 302? I don't know too much about motors, so I'll be checking in to see what some of these guys say. I'm stunned someone would suggest a new motor.. although I did have the same situation many years back with a caddy- once they found out it was a company car and I had a company credit card, they told me I needed 4 new tires. sounds like the same mindset with this mechanic.
It is a LT1 350. If I am at idle, I can put the car in neutral and give gas, the temp gage will go back down. (in 2 seconds!)
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
You didn't mention the year of your car?
Sounds like the coolant level is low.
Question is why?
answer is fill it up and wait, see what happens.
I tried to give all the info I could without writing a book on here. It is a 95. Coolant was my first thought, that was dealt with early in the problem. Has not been getting low. I did not check it before I took it in to be repaired, and I have the feeling, they didnt either. They didnt mention the coolant level if so. I do know there has not been any in the driveway, I know that doesnt mean its not leaking. Ive got to get my car out of there today, before those people dismantle it. Ive never been to a large dealership that is this bad. I was told by one of the service writers concerning the weather stripping that I asked to be secured, " tear it off, you dont need it". Im sure this is a violation of policy on his part.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Welcome to the club!

With a cold engine, remove the radiator cap and check color of coolant.
Brown(sludge)? Dexcool with air mixed in, looks like sludge - leak in coolant system somewhere.
Orange? Dexcool without air mixed - good tight system - no leaks.
Green? Regular coolant, i.e., Prestone, store brand, ethlyene glycol.
Remember the color. Alittle bit of sludge on the cap is okay, but alot of sludge in the radiator is not. Alot of sludge, coolant system needs flushing to clean out the sludge.

See the symbol on the temp gauge? This is the cooling system symbol. Go to the engine compartment and look for the coolant reservior having the same symbol.

If the reservior is empty, as suggested, fill it with 50/50 antifreeze of the color found in the radiator. Remove radiator cap and fill it, pour some more into the reservior to just above the COLD LINE. Watch for the level to change.

Fans should come on with A/C or DEFrost selected as they are controlled by the PCM if a late model Camaro.

As suggested, find another shop. I don't think there is anything major wrong with the present engine, but then I'm and others here, are not present to witness first hand.
That was one thing on my list of to do's, was flush the coolant while the car was there. I was told it did look like mud, but, Im not there, and I honestly dont know what color it is. All the questions I asked this person, he was not expecting, and he tried to go around them the best way possible. Im sure he thinks since I am a female, I know nothing. I have found out he does work on the side at home, he told me he had a firebird that he loved, and works on these type cars, buying , fixing, re-selling. He finally mentioned to me one option, "sell the parts from the car". That was a clue to me, he may even want my car parts for himself. If I do get another car, at some point, even if it was this minute, it would not be there. Chevrolet always contacts me after a service visit, Ive got a bad report this time. 1st time Ive had a bad one for them, and its horrible.
This person acted as if it were a big waste of time to check anything out on this car, he just wanted to replace my engine. And, he told me he called a place where he buys engines himself for his project cars. Dont trust, not doing. I will have great pleasure in calling him back, to report the results of my car being repaired, and the same motor is still in it!! ( I hope thats the case anyway)
 
It is a LT1 350. If I am at idle, I can put the car in neutral and give gas, the temp gage will go back down. (in 2 seconds!)
Cool, this engine design has a bleeder on top to bleed out the air
since it is reverse flow compared to an older engine design, Gen I '55-'93.

I will suggest you buy a Haynes manual from your local auro parts store for your car and read up and compare actual to the pictures. Thus educating your self more.

Bleeding out the air will help as it reads like runs hot idling, give gas, cools off.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Cool, this engine design has a bleeder on top to bleed out the air
since it is reverse flow compared to an older engine design, Gen I '55-'93.

I will suggest you buy a Haynes manual from your local auro parts store for your car and read up and compare actual to the pictures. Thus educating your self more.

Bleeding out the air will help as it reads like runs hot idling, give gas, cools off.
I am wondering now if it could be the heater core? Any thoughts? Since it does blow only cold air out. And the antifreeze is dirty.
 
Heater core is plugged with dirty coolant. Needs hoses disconnected and garden hose to flush it out to clean.

Or the air door is stuck on the heater box. Or vacuum motor for air door is broke or vacuum hose(s) are missing or cracked.
 
Vicki,

If you don't mind getting a little dirty, and you know the difference between a box end wrench and a phillips screwdriver, I'd suggest you get the car home, then there are several simple things people on here can talk you through to at least eliminate possibilities and troubleshoot the problem. What you have described does not sound like an engine replacement is warranted.

Good luck and welcome to TC!
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Vicki,

If you don't mind getting a little dirty, and you know the difference between a box end wrench and a phillips screwdriver, I'd suggest you get the car home, then there are several simple things people on here can talk you through to at least eliminate possibilities and troubleshoot the problem. What you have described does not sound like an engine replacement is warranted.

Good luck and welcome to TC!
No, I dont mind the getting dirty. But, where Im at I dont have a garage, and, Im sure everyone would get a kick out of me working on my car! I probably will not pick it up until tomorrow, then im taking it to my "trusted" service dept.
Nothing would make me happier than being able to fix at least half of this with the help of you guys.Would love to tell the want to be mechanic what I did!
 
After reading my post above, I hope it did not come off sexist. I would give the same advice to anyone, male or female, that comes on TC and expresses limited mechanical ability.
I have been thinking the same thing m8...
We dont have gender here, or age...its just levels of experiance and support in different areas.
We are racist thu...we do have issues with jappas (called ricers over there) :thumbsup:
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
I have been thinking the same thing m8...
We dont have gender here, or age...its just levels of experiance and support in different areas.
We are racist thu...we do have issues with jappas (called ricers over there) :thumbsup:
No worries. I didnt even think of it as sexist. thanks guys!
 
Did u know every country that has had a female leader has gone to war?
And NZ scewed the world up back in the late 1800s....we gave females the vote.
An guys who have 1st gen Camaros, im told, have nice butts.



Sry...Kiwi humour
 
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