'67 full length floor pan install

Lifeboatdan · May 10, 2010

I am installing a full length floor pan and I am trying to decide how to install it. It is not an entire floor pan but a full length drivers side pan and a full length passenger side pan. The replacement pans lip where the spot welds are located against the rocker are bend up instead of down compared to the original pan.
My question,
Should I ????
Option 1 - cut the old pan out and leave the spot welded part of the old pan to the rocker and cut the lip off the new pan and butt weld them together along both cuts which would be a butt weld all the way along the old piece next to the the rocker. Will look original from underneath car along rocker seam.
or
Option 2 - cut the old pan out including the spot welds along the rocker/floor pan seam and just puddle weld through predrilled holes (spot welding with a MIG) in the bend up lip of the new pan to the rocker the full length of the rocker. Will not look original since you will not see the floor pan spot weld along the rocker seam since lip will be bent up into passenger compartment instead of along the bottom rocker/floor pan seam.

Which option is best???

See picture of the new pan. The part I am talking about is along the right side of the picture.

ragtopman · May 10, 2010

My first question would be, where and why did you get a pan that has the lip of the pan bent upwards?? Me personally, I wouldnt install it. 1st reason, its not right. 2nd, if you did go to the route slicing and dicing the new pan to the old lip, the heat created in that long of a weld by the time your done, just how straight is it going to be(are you welding on just one side or both?)after your done. And dont forget about areas of thinner metal due to rust in the old lip.

But if your not concerned about the correct look of the lip facing down, install it but I would seam seal that gap so crap didnt get caught in the groove.

Lifeboatdan · May 10, 2010

Got these pans from National Part Depot (NPD). US Made???
They are good quality. This is only difference. I would stagger welding so would not warp due to heat.

5speed502 · May 10, 2010

Personally, If you need to install full-length floor pans on both sides, then it is a no-brainer to me. I would install a complete one-piece floor pan myself. they are incredibly easy to install, fit very well, and when finished properly, very difficult to detect....

Just my $.02....................

Lifeboatdan · May 10, 2010

Has anyone else seen pans like this? I bought them over the Asian imports since made in US because I heard US sheet metal is better quality.????

dhutton · May 10, 2010

Lifeboatdan said:
Has anyone else seen pans like this? I bought them over the Asian imports since made in US because I heard US sheet metal is better quality.????

I think option 1 is the only way to go with those pans. It will likely hurt the value of the car otherwise.

Don

Lifeboatdan · May 10, 2010

My concern with the full floor pan replacement is that I do not have a jig that the body is mounted to to keep the body aligned correctly. I am also trying to save a little $$$ since these were $200 cheaper than the full floor pan.

greenmanstunnel · May 10, 2010

Lifeboatdan said:
My concern with the full floor pan replacement is that I do not have a jig that the body is mounted to to keep the body aligned correctly. I am also trying to save a little $$$ since these were $200 cheaper than the full floor pan.

I'm wrestling with the various means to fix all the holes in my floor as well. If I could just cut the whole thing out and drop a 1-piece in there, I'd do it. But I'm a rookie and not sure what happens to the structural rigidity/alignment when you take the whole floor out. Seems to me like the frame rails and rocker panels would hold things in place while you drop the new floor in, but what do I know?

For reference, I'm working on a 67 convertible and whatever work I do is going to be in the driveway with the car fully assembled and on its wheels.

Lifeboatdan · May 10, 2010

dhutton said:
I think option 1 is the only way to go with those pans. It will likely hurt the value of the car otherwise.

Don

This is a resto Mod. disc brakes all around, crate motor (since doesn't have original block), adding AC, etc. If this is the case would it really hurt the value??

5speed502 · May 11, 2010

Lifeboatdan said:
My concern with the full floor pan replacement is that I do not have a jig that the body is mounted to to keep the body aligned correctly. I am also trying to save a little $$$ since these were $200 cheaper than the full floor pan.

Okay, I am going out on a limb here, and I know there are gonna be a lot of people that do not agree, but.....

Putting a full floor pan in does not require any kind of a jig. All that is required is taking very good measurements.... IF, your rockers and roof are solid. I changed the full floor pan in my camaro, ON MY ROTISSERIE. I actually slid my floor pan in from the bottom, and thru the windshield, test fitting it. If you weld it back in the way the factory welded it, then it will really fit well. I have enclosed a couple of photos for you to look at.

Keep in mind.... My car is reassembled, and all my sheetmetal, and subframe line up perfectly.

To me, the time you save trying to fit, weld, and cleanup all the other welds from piecing a floor in, are well worth the extra 200 bucks....

5speed502 · May 11, 2010

Before and after paint......

dhutton · May 11, 2010

Lifeboatdan said:
This is a resto Mod. disc brakes all around, crate motor (since doesn't have original block), adding AC, etc. If this is the case would it really hurt the value??

It would if I was the buyer. There is no good reason for not doing things properly in my mind. Take the time to butt weld in your panels.

Just my two cents,
Don

Lifeboatdan · May 11, 2010

Thanks Guys,
You are really making me rethink about putting in a full floor. I called NPD yesterday and they said they would exchange the full length pans for a full floor.

5speed502 · May 11, 2010

At times I hesitate to give advice.......

Well, I sure don't want to misdirect you, but I have average fabrication skills, at best, and I found it to be one of the simplest tasks I have done on my car.

Please guys, jump in here and give you opinion as well.

6781camaro · May 11, 2010

Dan

I can tell you from my experience too... that you should go for the full one-piece floor over the two piece job. Neater, less welding, stronger in the end, and less time.

I chose this way even though my tranny tunnel and rear floors were quite nice. I only really needed to replace the two front patches, the toe boards, and some tiny patches here and there to make it work, but one-piece it was. Boy am I glad I did that! Take a look at a before and after.... *(and yes, it's the same car--- Lol)

XLexusTech · May 11, 2010

doing this myself right now.. Full floor toe boards inner rockers, patchs to the outer rockers and tulip panels..

I have heard two things... on a coup you dont need to brace the car... and you should use a water level to level out the four corners (rockers I assume) before welding in the floor.

any thoughs on this?.

also in the above pics is that self etching primer? If so what prroduct is it?

greenmanstunnel · May 11, 2010

So, is it realistically possible to do this on my vert with the car on its wheels (not a rotisierrie or anything like that) or would I be better off replacing it in pieces. I don't care if it's perfect, just that it's solid and I don't screw anything up.

5speed502 · May 12, 2010

You are going to have to remove the sub-frame to do this, so I would say it would be difficult to do it with it on its wheels. You may be able to block the car in several places, under the rear axle, front and back of the subframe, and maybe front and back of the rockers, but I cannot imagine that would leave you enough room to get around it and clean and weld.

Also, on a convertible, you would still have to support the upper door openings, as there is no roof to hold them in position.

No matter what, you still have to remove the boxes below the front seats and reinstall them.

greenmanstunnel · May 12, 2010

5speed502 said:
You are going to have to remove the sub-frame to do this, so I would say it would be difficult to do it with it on its wheels. You may be able to block the car in several places, under the rear axle, front and back of the subframe, and maybe front and back of the rockers, but I cannot imagine that would leave you enough room to get around it and clean and weld.

Also, on a convertible, you would still have to support the upper door openings, as there is no roof to hold them in position.

No matter what, you still have to remove the boxes below the front seats and reinstall them.

Thanks for the info. I think I'll stick with the original plan and replace it in pieces. Seems like less chance for screw ups that way.

Lifeboatdan · May 12, 2010

Todd, Mine looks just like yours start out!

You guys make it sound easy. I see your point that is would be. Did you find that you need to weld in the angle iron for support or will it be OK without.

Sorry for the elemetary question but how to you measure and what is the refernence points. The ground? where is it best to have the jack stands located to minmize flex? I guess the front and back of the rockers?

Thanks for you help.

'67 full length floor pan install

Lifeboatdan

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