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milehigh67

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Gentlemen,

My 67 convertible is chewing up the front tires and floats all over the road as if I greased the front tires before going for a ride. The alignment is not even close and all of the rubber bushings underneath are gone. Its time for some suspension work.

I am not really into autocross or racing. I simply would like the car to handle and ride better like our modern vehicles do. I am trying to decide if I should simply buy a cheap ($200-$300) rebuild kit to replace the worn out stock supsension parts or perhaps look into a front end supension upgrade. Does anybody have any recommendations for a nice front upgrade suspension kit that won't break the bank? I am sure there are all kinds of choices and levels depending on the application. I simply would like to improve the performance of the car as opposed to putting it on the track.

Thanks guys in advance for the recommendations.

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#2 ·
Well what do you consider breaking the bank? How much do you want to spend? I think by just replacing shocks, ball joints, tie rods and idler arm. With an alignment you would feel night and day. Also make sure your subframe bushings are good. You might think of getting a different front sway bar too. Otherwise to really get a more modern ride you would have to look into tubular or adjustable UCA's. With maybe taller ball joints. Then your looking at 7 bills or so. It all depends on what aftermarket equipment you would decide on. Do you like your ride height? Maybe even new front springs are in order. How about the steering gearbox is there play there also? And I forgot Nice Vert!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I have a feeling that simply refreshing all of the stock components that you mention is likely what I will end up doing. I would like to keep the parts list around the $3000 or less although I would consider an upgrade kit if there are any around that price range. In other words, what is the most bang for the buck? I have a feeling body mounts may also be in order as I have some body panel fitment issues.

My car is a nice drive but I would like to bring it to another level up in quality and comfort now that I have been driving it for several years as is.
 
#4 ·
a stock rebuild would do wonders if the original bushings are shot as the alignment will change-alot, you could upgrade the bushings to urethane and they arent much more than rubber , good shocks are needed! and the biggest singlemost item I would add is a 1" or 1 1/8" front sway bar these along with your tores will amaze you how much better it drives!
 
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#5 ·
I would highly recommend the Hotchkis stuff, I have the front and back springs, the front swaybar, and the Hotchkis revalved Bilstein shocks on my camaro and for a cruising car I love the way it handles. I'd also recommend a set of frame connectors and solid aluminum body mounts. I went factory rubber on the suspension bushings, if I were doing it again I'd go with delrin or possibly the Global West Del-alum. For alignment specs I'd check out David Pozzi's site,

http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm
 
#6 ·
Definitely agree with Mike M... Id check out the Hotchkis springs/Bilstein shocks, then also some subframe connectors and solid bushings. Definitely a great start right there...
 
#7 ·
milehigh67 said:
I have a feeling that simply refreshing all of the stock components that you mention is likely what I will end up doing. I would like to keep the parts list around the $3000 or less although I would consider an upgrade kit if there are any around that price range. In other words, what is the most bang for the buck? I have a feeling body mounts may also be in order as I have some body panel fitment issues.

My car is a nice drive but I would like to bring it to another level up in quality and comfort now that I have been driving it for several years as is.
Click to expand...
A simple front end rebuild, new bushings in your control arms, and new body mounts will make a world of difference, and you could probably do that all for under $500

3 grand will get you a long ways. I agree with the Hotchkis recommendations very good stuff, I also like SpeedTech as well. For 3 g's you could build a very good handling car...

Front End Steering Rebuild $200-300
Front Lower Control Arm Rebuild - $50
Tubular UCA's (Hotchkis/SpeedTech/Global West)- $500-600
PPM Tall Upper Ball Joints - $100
Heavy Duty Tie Rod Sleeves - $75
Hotchkis Front Sway Bar - $220
Hotchkis Front Lowering Coils - $175
Hotchkis Rear Lowering Leafs - $425
Bilstein Front Shocks - $200
Bilstein Rear Shocks - $200
Hotchkis Subframe Connectors - $380
Solid Body Bushings - $100-150

You didn't mention what kind of steering you have. If you have power steering, the Delphi 670 box is a great upgrade if you want to go all new. A lot of people have done the 3rd Generation steering box upgrade if your on a budget.

I would have mentioned modern tires in there, but it looks like you have that covered, and that will save you a bunch of money.
 
#8 ·
I bought a complete front end rebuild kit from PST with all the bushings, tie rods, ball joints, etc. Took me 2 nights after work to take everything apart. Had a local machine shop press out/in the ball joints and I had them blast the a-arms while the joints were out. I painted the a-arms and put everything back together before having it aligned.

Just like everyone else, I added Hotchkis springs, sway bar, and Bilstein shocks front and rear. Later I added Hotchkis rear leafs and subframe connectors. You could easily do all of this for less than $3K.
 
#9 ·
I went a little overboard with a complete Hotchkis suspension (control arms and all). The greased derlin bushings they use in all their moving suspension parts seemed to make a big difference and no squeaks. I don’t know if you can get bushings for a stock control arm made out of that stuff but well worth the cost if you can. I also went with the revalved Bilstein shocks from them and they are made to match their spring rates. The car handles great and still is a decent ride. If you change the springs and shocks I would try to get a set that was designed together.
 
#10 ·
I just had all new OEM style parts put in the Pace Car with the frame off resto and it's amazingly tight, almost too tight with the fast ratio box that came with it originally (but rebuilt now). Need to get more caster added to the alignment now to get it to be a little more center focused on the steering. If you go the original route make sure you get new springs too.
 
#11 ·
milehigh67 said:
I would like to keep the parts list around the $3000 or less although I would consider an upgrade kit if there are any around that price range.
Click to expand...

Based on your first post, is that a mistype?
 
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#12 · (Edited)
Start with your subframe bushings. I did this a month or so ago and that alone made a big difference. I have all new front components and disc brakes to add when it cools down a bit out in the shop, but the bushings took alot of the float out of the ride.
 
#13 ·
Hotchkis springs front and back...
Moog steering components and control arm bushings and upper and lower ball joints..
Energy suspension body bushings...
Repainted everything
cost was about $700

A brand new feel (pretty decent cornering in the mountains) and a brand new look= Happy as HELL Camaro Driver!!
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
Had the same situation with my '69 vert, just wanted a nice firm ride without breaking the bank. First thing I found out, pass on the kits, I went with Moog through out the frontend and it just wasn't that much more. I did use a Prothane bushing kit and Addco 1" bar with Moog 6308 springs. When I took the A-arms to a local guy that restores muscle cars for a living to have the bushings pressed in first thing he asked me was, "what parts are you using?" When I told him straight Moog top to bottom, he nodded and said that was the way to go, stay away from the kits. I also used a GW solid subframe kit and took a pair of CE weld on connectors when I took it for the alignment so the car could be setup straight, welded up and aligned. It's not a auto cross car but the larger swaybar and heavier springs with subframe connectors really translates into a nice stable ride.
 
#16 ·
My '67 vert drove like a boat. I put Hotchkis 1.5" lowering rear springs on, and it has been a huge difference. I plan on putting 3" front drop springs and rebuilding the front end, but I ran out of winter. Here is the stance, the current springs drop it about 4":
Image


What color is your vert? She looks great.
 
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milehigh67
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