Round Two! '68 Coupe Ground-Up / RotoSS Resto!

6781camaro · Mar 4, 2012

Before doing an outer wheel house test-fit, I dollied flat all welding surfaces on the inner structure, roloc'd them smooth, and in she went! First shot! Pretty cool when it works out like this... And I must say, I think a '68 is much easier to work on since they are rounded and not squared off like a '69.

Here's the test-fitting pics... All seams lined up beautifully and flush. I will need to make a small patch to repair the lower front inner wheel house before welding in this new outer. A small patch measuring about 4" x 4" at the most to cap off the end of the rocker opening where the drain hole is.

*Man this Camaro is going to look sweet blasted and in epoxy once the RH wheel house is removed! I wanted to get these little things out of the way before blasting since the outer wheel house blocks a few key places that I can blast if they are removed. So, no blasting today, BUT!!! lots of nice progress.

More to come tomorrow. Most likely the RH outer wheel house...

Now to catch up on everyone else's threads.

69z28freak · Mar 4, 2012

Het Todd what are you going to blast it with? More blacke beauty? Do I sense the return of "MASTER BLASTER"? Muuuhhaaawwhhahahahhh.......

6781camaro · Mar 4, 2012

69z28freak said:
Het Todd what are you going to blast it with? More blacke beauty? Do I sense the return of "MASTER BLASTER"? Muuuhhaaawwhhahahahhh.......

Yes. I received a fresh supply of it too, from the Master Blaster himself. He wanted me to be prepared for his arrival. :stirpot: He said to make sure the RH wheel house is removed first though, so he can blast every nook and cranny, not to leave any inkling of rust behind.

Looking forward to the blasting and epoxy coating. I am tired of looking at 400 shades of corrosion here.

I am thinking next weekend now.

6781camaro · Mar 6, 2012

Where were you guys? I had a blast working on the '68 this morning.

Finally had a few hours to get some blasting done. I started on the LH quarter areas from the jamb back to the front edge of the trunk pan. I hit the frame rail outer surfaces too... More later today and tomorrow!

The Tyvec suit was a true blessing and kept me clean. Only my hands and shoes got dusty... much better than last time around. Highly recommend them...

I made sure to cover all moving parts of the RotoSS to keep it clean. The casters did get sandy... but hey... At least I remembered to close the garage door before blasting this time.

I wanted to give my new pressure pot blaster a whirl but it kept having issues-- even with my new air piping system which gives me clean dry air now at all drops. I think due to the lack of experience with it, I may have not had the valves set up right, or the correct nozzle inserted? or not enough pressure in the line? not sure... so to save time I quickly emptied the media into my trusty 100 lb Craftsman syphon feed blaster. Worked like a charm! No clogs at all... I think the red one may require more cfm's or air pressure and I only had the regulator at that drop set to 90 psi... oh well... I will work out the kinks another time. Meanwhile check it out....

tjgimp · Mar 6, 2012

Nice Todd. That blasting would have taken me two weeks! You make it all look easy.:beers:

jboettc208 · Mar 6, 2012

Hi Todd!

I have that same red pressure pot blaster and they are finicky! It's a two man job. Or in my case a man and a women job. The key is to open the dead man valve so air only is coming out and then slowly open the ball valve on the bottom that lets the abrasive out until the desired amount of blast is achieved. Even then mine plugs up now and then and you have to bounce it on the ground a few times to get things moving again. My girlfriend blasts while I bounce! Works great! (it would sound better if it were the other way around now that I read it back) So you may need a Mrs. Blaster to get that thing going. Ha Ha!

By the way I follow both of your builds. Nice work!

6781camaro · Mar 6, 2012

jboettc208 said:
Hi Todd!

I have that same red pressure pot blaster and they are finicky! It's a two man job. Or in my case a man and a women job. The key is to open the dead man valve so air only is coming out and then slowly open the ball valve on the bottom that lets the abrasive out until the desired amount of blast is achieved. Even then mine plugs up now and then and you have to bounce it on the ground a few times to get things moving again. My girlfriend blasts while I bounce! Works great! (it would sound better if it were the other way around now that I read it back) So you may need a Mrs. Blaster to get that thing going. Ha Ha!

By the way I follow both of your builds. Nice work!

Lol... that was funny... (bouncing)... I understand what you mean though. I did end up bumping it around a few times before switching to the other blaster. Thanks for the tips on it. I will give that a shot. It was my first time using one of that style so I am not that familiar with it other than what it's used for

...

Thanks for the kinds words on the builds too. I'm in neck-deep now with two. :yes:

6781camaro · Mar 6, 2012

tjgimp said:
Nice Todd. That blasting would have taken me two weeks! You make it all look easy.:beers:

Thanks bud! ... It took longer to set up and get the car into position than to do that actual blasting. I need to pick up a few more hood lenses. This one fogged up from the etching almost instantly-- cheapy...

I used to have extras but "blasted" through all of them.

Blasting is the best part of the resto I think. (most fun for me)... I just find it fascinating watching the clean metal being slowly uncovered by the media. Kind of like watching the plug-weld weld-puddle solidifying as it cools. Those types of things really capture my attention...

6781camaro · Mar 6, 2012

jboettc208 said:
Hi Todd!

I have that same red pressure pot blaster and they are finicky! It's a two man job. Or in my case a man and a women job. The key is to open the dead man valve so air only is coming out and then slowly open the ball valve on the bottom that lets the abrasive out until the desired amount of blast is achieved. Even then mine plugs up now and then and you have to bounce it on the ground a few times to get things moving again. My girlfriend blasts while I bounce! Works great! (it would sound better if it were the other way around now that I read it back) So you may need a Mrs. Blaster to get that thing going. Ha Ha!

By the way I follow both of your builds. Nice work!

Joe--- now that I am thinking about what you said and what was happening-- that's the perfect solve! There was too much media coming out and it popping out in clumps and spurts eventually clogging it up more often than not. Thanks again... anxious to use that one because the I have four ceramic nozzles for it in various sizes that will make it go even quicker I think. :thumbsup::beers:

69z28freak · Mar 6, 2012

Todd looks like "MASTER BLASTER" was diligent and thorough as always. That surface is clean enough to eat off. Some serious rust villians were laid to rest today. Thank you 'MASTER BLASTER" for helping to keep our streets and gargages vermin and rust free. Death to oxidization and corrosion I say. As 'MASTER BLASTER" spins in his cape and disapears in to the sunset, we are safe to work on our cars another day...

Who is this mysterious Grey Knight of Abbrassion?

6781camaro · Mar 6, 2012

Mike--- only the wisest of nozzles will know who that grey night of abrasion truly is...

Now I must focus on not letting too much time pass and get this coated in epoxy!:yes:

jboettc208 · Mar 7, 2012

You bet!! You will like the different size tips, they work well. The biggest problem with that unit is that my hand gets soar holding the dead man valve open. I know I'm a wimp. I do wire the handle down when I have lots to do.

Joe

6781camaro · Mar 7, 2012

I totally know what you mean about the dead-man's valve strong spring. Looking forward to giving that blaster a whirl today...

Sauron67MM · Mar 7, 2012

jboettc208 said:
You bet!! You will like the different size tips, they work well. The biggest problem with that unit is that my hand gets soar holding the dead man valve open. I know I'm a wimp. I do wire the handle down when I have lots to do.

Joe

Replace the deadman valve with a ball valve. Been using them for decades. Do not throttle them or any other blasting end.

If more blasting is projected, it would be in one's best interest to buy a better blaster with an easy fill top. The ones with the small screw on fill tops suck. I threw one in the trash, and no wonder they are on C. List often for $50 or less. They usually come with inferior valves when new also. A good sandblaster is far more productive than a cheap one. Use a quality model once and you won't want to use anything else. There is no reason a clean and properly adjusted pressure pot blaster with an adequate clean air supply will not perform consistently well.

6781camaro · Mar 7, 2012

Sauron67MM said:
Replace the deadman valve with a ball valve. Been using them for decades. Do not throttle them or any other blasting end.
....

I can see where the deadman valve could be inconvenient. So just cut the main media hose flush and insert a barbed fitting then into a ball valve? What size ball valve do you recommend to get an effective spray pattern for the media? The hose looks like it's a 3/4" id hose--nice and heavy. The only reason I do like a deadman valve is it only requires on hand to use. I had to adjust the little rubber cube at the end since it was leaking though...
I have never used a pressure pot blaster before, so I think it was solely out of adjustment in my case... and sputtering, then clogging every time. My air is definitely dry and clean-- we know that. Too much media was being let out or not enough air pressure was used I believe. I can also try the ball valve replacement afterwards...I hate to cut the hose...

Sauron67MM · Mar 7, 2012

I cannot tell from the photo, but you have to get an adapter/nozzle assembly from a blast site to adapt the ceramic nozzle to the ball valve. The ball valve has nothing to do with spray pattern. How can it? It's only a valve to allow air flow, and 1/2" is fine for that unit. You will find those rubber blocks wear out quickly. Once you get used to blasting with a ball valve, which should take no more than 30 seconds, they are not inconvenient with two handed operation. There are more expensive nozzle set ups available. Air volume is important in blasting. Large grain sand and too small a nozzle won't work, it'll clog the tip. I don't sandblast bodies anymore, only occasional parts. For what I pay it's not worth my time. I loathe it anyway. If a person can find someone to do it cheaply and properly, which is not always the case, it's better to sub it out.

6781camaro · Mar 7, 2012

Got it... Thanks.

I am using 60 grit black beauty media (coal slag) from Reed Minerals Co. The nozzle orafice is a little less than 1/8" diam. and may be too tight... good point. I'll see what I can do with it using all this info/tips.

6781camaro · Mar 7, 2012

I could just disconnect the deadman valve trigger at the allen head bolt, then cut the hose right at the 14" mark which is just before the nozzle coupling, and insert a barbed ball valve there. Would that do it? I could always reverse it by simply leaving the ball valve open and re-attach the deadman valve trigger.

Sauron67MM · Mar 7, 2012

That ferrule can't go in 12". That handle's length is also protective collar and just part of it's design. Take it apart an see what's up. What are those screws for? You might cut and weld that handle to a fitting to mate to a ball valve. Or buy a box of rubber square blocks and keep the existing setup. It's your game.

6781camaro · Mar 7, 2012

It appears that the six phillips screws are what fastens the hose to the handle/trigger assembly. No crimps. I'll play with it...

Round Two! '68 Coupe Ground-Up / RotoSS Resto!

6781camaro

69z28freak

6781camaro

6781camaro

tjgimp

jboettc208

6781camaro

6781camaro

6781camaro

69z28freak

6781camaro

jboettc208

6781camaro

Sauron67MM

6781camaro

Sauron67MM

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