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1967 Firebird Convertible - Firebird-Geek

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#21 ·
Hey! Why didn't you remove the cross rail (inner tail panel) and outer wheel houses yet? ;) :D Just kidding! Great work! Is this what the car looks like currently or are you just now posting pics from an earlier point of the resto? You're kicking some assphault there Jarrod! Keep up the good pace!:beers:
 
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#23 ·
This is how I wish I could've done my '69 coupe but I just didn't have the space or time back when I did my tear-down. Great to see you learning from others on here and doing it right! Really looks great! Before I bought my '69 Coupe, I looked at many first-gens, and a few of them were Firebirds. Never lucky enough to come across a convertible however. A drop top will be my next to restore after these two... I've always wanted one to cruise around in-- even a daily driver...
 
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Well, it is finally time to add some parts back on. Before I go ahead and cut the main floor out, I decided to put the trunk floor in place and weld it in. This way I put some rigidity back into the car before cutting out the main floor. Otherwise with both out I run the risk of things moving around (never a good thing!! :)

Got my new AMD full trunk floor...
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Between the Trunk Floor and the Main Floor... there isn't anything left to change out... just a LOT of work!! :D

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#25 ·
Looking at your main floor, it seems like it can just be patched on the trans hump, no? Of course, not inspecting it in person, I can't really tell how bad it is... but it looks easily restorable in the pics you did post... just thinking...
 
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#27 ·
I am glad to see another Firebird on this Camaro site. I am jealous of your shop.

If you decide to go with a Pontiac engine, will it bolt up to the Speedtech subframe? Do you know if you will have to cut the floor to fit the 4L80E? Do you plan to use Speedtech's torque arm suspension?

Sorry for all the questions. I might be going in the same direction as you for my drivetrain.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
6781camaro said:
Looking at your main floor, it seems like it can just be patched on the trans hump, no? Of course, not inspecting it in person, I can't really tell how bad it is... but it looks easily restorable in the pics you did post... just thinking...
Click to expand...

That was the original idea when I started the project... BUT... there are more areas of the floor that would need some TLC. (Just like you did) I am finding it is often less work, and a much better repair to just replace the whole panel than do a patch job on the areas that need it. (Pictures to follow soon to show what I mean).
 
#29 ·
Makes sense... Keep the pics comin'! :yes: :cool::beers:
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
tp_smith said:
I am glad to see another Firebird on this Camaro site. I am jealous of your shop.

If you decide to go with a Pontiac engine, will it bolt up to the Speedtech subframe? Do you know if you will have to cut the floor to fit the 4L80E? Do you plan to use Speedtech's torque arm suspension?

Sorry for all the questions. I might be going in the same direction as you for my drivetrain.
Click to expand...
Don't worry about asking questions... I will be asking PLENTY as time goes on... I really appreciate that this hobby has such GREAT individuals! Being able to ask questions, get ideas, or just pickup a simple tip can make the difference between a OK build and an AWESOME one! :yes:

I do believe that the Speedtech subframe will bolt up to almost any type of GM engine. When you order from them they will ask if it will have a Small Block, Big Block or an LSX type engine. The subframe stays the same, but they give you different motor mounts. Talk about a company that has AWESOME customer service... friendly, knowledgeable, and always willing to answer any concern or question you have! Thumbs up to these guys :thumbsup:

The 4l80 and cutting the floor... not sure yet... some make it sound like it will go in with no problem, and some say you will have to do some cutting to make it fit. (Stay tuned... and we will find out together in the next few months) :D

As far as the Speedtech torque arm... after reading about almost every rear suspension system out there, I did decide on Speedtech's Torque Arm system. Being that I am mini-tubing the car and the fact that it is a convertible, made a HUGE decision in going with the Torque Arm.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Note to self... next time measure how far back the lip of the trunk floor is... BEFORE cutting out the old one. :clonk:

So I lay the new trunk floor into place... and even though these are quality parts... I see that I will be having to clamp the SH### out of the panel to make it lay tight against the frame rails.

Issue is you can move the trunk pan forwards and back a good inch. To far forward, trunk panel will sit inside of the quarter panels to far. To far back and I will be sticking out the back of the quarters.

I took a photo of the gap between the rear inner valance panel and the back edge of the trunk pan.. but didn't take any reference measurements.
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My solution: (There very well may be a better way, but this is how I did it)

To make sure everything squared up first... I clamped some square tubing to the back of the trunk floor, and used it as a measuring point to square the floor up with the car. (since the floor moves around a bit, you really can not just lay it in there and start welding it up).
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I then used this bar to measure from center of remaining quarter panel front lip and a few other reference points to make sure things got squared up.
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a few other measurements to make sure things were where they should be.
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What I finally did was to hang the passenger side quarter panel and tail panel to make sure the trunk was not to far forward or to far back.. (sorry didn't get a picture of this)
I also left the main floor in place to make sure I was going to have enought of an overlap to weld in the new floor.
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NOTE: I thought I could get some measurements off of my father-in-laws 68 camaro to give me a idea of how far forward/back to place the trunk... NOT A CHANCE... these cars have WAY to much tolerance between them to take measurements off of one car and use it on another. So DO NOT USE MY MEASUREMENTS ON YOUR CAR!!! :noway:
 
#32 ·
Before you weld anything there... Test-fit the new cross rail, tail panel and both quarters as a unit. This will let you know where it all sits. Don't forget, repro panels often have extra stock on them that either need trimming or tweaking to fit correctly and tightly.

Also-- Since you did not move your firewall, you have a perfect reference for front-rear positioning of the main floor and trunk floor. I would test-fit those as well. It's easy to be in a hurry to weld it all up-- believe me I know-- but the more test-fitting and adjusting you do beforehand, the smoother it will be in the end. Be sure to treat the insides of the frame rails before welding anything on top of them. Now's the chance! :yes:

Make sure the frame rails sit tightly up against the torque plates that are welded to the new main floor too...
 
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
Once I had the trunk where it needed to be... I marked it with a chalk pencil and pulled it out to be drilled for the plug welds.
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All drilled and ready to go...
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Drilled out the front part of the frame rails where I will be welding the trunk floor from the bottom.
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Recheck all the measurements... I was so concerned about getting this right I think I have about 6 hours in just placing the trunk in the right location.:yes:

I then (again forgot to take a picture) put a screw in almost every other plug hole and clamped the trunk down to the frame rail... this worked GREAT and really tightened everything up. Then I would just remove a screw and weld the plug hole as I went.
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All welded in...

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PS. make sure you use enough heat to get good penetration to the frame rails (this is a major structural piece of the cars strength.) Not the most fun thing to weld in... like welding a pop can to a frame rail. For me... set heat for frame rail thickness... use your "stick-out" (how close you are with the gun) to make fine adjustments to your welds... If you are welding a little too "hot" and are blowing holes, you could adjust this simply by creating more RESISTANCE by lengthening the "stick-out" or distance that you are holding the tip of the gun from the surface being welded. That and practice... I am still learning tips and tricks as I go. :)
 
#34 ·
and even though it seems far into the future,... these steps taken now will effect your door gaps and how much adjustability you will have at that stage. Test-fit, test-fit, test-fit,... and then double-check that.. THEN weld away.:yes: Trust me...
 
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Discussion starter · #35 ·
6781camaro said:
Before you weld anything there... Test-fit the new cross rail, tail panel and both quarters as a unit. This will let you know where it all sits. Don't forget, repro panels often have extra stock on them that either need trimming or tweaking to fit correctly and tightly.

Also-- Since you did not move your firewall, you have a perfect reference for front-rear positioning of the main floor and trunk floor. I would test-fit those as well. It's easy to be in a hurry to weld it all up-- believe me I know-- but the more test-fitting and adjusting you do beforehand, the smoother it will be in the end. Be sure to treat the insides of the frame rails before welding anything on top of them. Now's the chance! :yes:

Make sure the frame rails sit tightly up against the torque plates that are welded to the new main floor too...
Click to expand...
I did test fit the tail panel and the passenger side quarter... I could not do the driver’s side quarter, for I still had some of the door jam in place for strength and a reference for the door. When I cut the Passenger side door jam out it took ALOT of strength out of the rear braces... so I left the drivers in until I build in a bit more strength with more parts... seems like a give and take with putting this thing back together! :)

Good tip on using the front firewall... for I did not trust many of the braces or other surfaces on the car, for it seems GM wasn't to concerned in some of these area's as far as getting them EXACT! :noway:
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Now that I have some structure welded back to the frame rails... I can go ahead and start removing the main floor... Thanks to the previous owners CUSTOM work they did on the tunnel to add a 4 speed... and a leak probably due to a crack in the convertible drip rail allowing water inside the car. I decided to complete replace the main floor with a AMD complete floor.

OLD floor...
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Previous owner did some lovely work to add a 4-speed. :wacko:
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Drivers side rear seat pan... looks like some moisture was let in. The drip rail for the convertible was cracked and probably let water in this area often. Getting close to a Flintstone mobile... :D
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PLUS... that means I don't have to clean up this... it is a nice mess of oil and undercoating.
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Needless to say... a FULL floor was PERFECT to get rid of all the past "fixes" that were done to the car. I ordered a Full AMD floor. It is a coupe floor, for it is missing the rear floor brace. But this can easily be added, to make it a convertible floor.
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Discussion starter · #40 ·
Plasma + Air Hammer + Grinder... damn it was NO FUN removing this part. I broke off 2 air hammer chisels with this section. There are LAYERS of metal that make this part of the floor up. That and I was VERY careful not to damage the frame rails... since I would be using these.

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FINALLY it is OUT!
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Firebird-GEEK
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