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Body cart plans and materials list

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#101 · (Edited)
Too bad. I tried the photobucket fix and it did not work for me. :( So can this 68 jig work for a 69? If someone knows it will save me some time looking up the factory specs and comparing to the pics Almos (thanks!) posted. :)

Thx

Oops, nevermind. "must read entire thread before posting" :) So this works for all 1st gens :) If the photobucket pics can get re-linked, this would make a great sticky (I can do that), but lets get the pics fixed. Kev
 
#102 ·
Any way to get the pictures re-hosted? The ones attached in the last message didn't have enough resolution to read measurements. I'd like to start building one for a 68 camaro I have.

If anyone has the latest and could email them my email is jv96cobra at yahoo.com

Thanks!
 
#103 ·
Could somebody help me out of some plans for rear frame rail jig that they have made current situation on a car I’m workin is new aftermarket trunks pan and both frame rails were just self tapped into place so the previous owner could put a rear end under it and move it out of his way
 
#105 ·
Swarner14 said:
COuld andyone help me out with a set of plans for a body jig for a 67 camaro car I have has no trunk pan or frame rails in it
Click to expand...
firstgenjigs.com

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #106 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

I have had more than one person PM me looking for images for this thread and being as Photo Bucket went and made a mess of this and several other threads I thought I would try and get some of the original images back to help out those in need of them. It took a lot longer than I planned to get to the original images being as I have relocated from Fort St John to Penticton BC and Photo Bucket is a major PITA to work with getting my personal images back off of and pending the sale of my house I do not have my main computer close to hand. The plans were modified several times through out this thread but I believe other than the vertical supports items 3 and cross support item F which most of us have eliminated these should be correct and usable, I did go through the first 4 pages of the thread and confirmed most of the updates were incorporated into the images. I am hopeful that being as the reply option shows a spot to upload attached files that these will be and stay attached to this thread from here on out. The measurement lines for item H is incorrect it should show from the inside of E to inside of E instead of the center lines of items E.

Kevin
 

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#107 ·
Hi Kevin,

Thanks for posting updated images! I just started looking at this thread last week and was going to try and track down copies of the original drawings. You must have read my mind! I wanted to join the forums to say thanks. Now maybe I will have to add some of my own photos of the process haha.
 
#108 ·
If your going to build one of these and are not used to blueprints like me. Dont measure between the location pins square. That measurement IS from pin to pin diagonally. My jig pins are about 1/2" to far apart because there are a few different diagrams showing straight AND diagonally. Unfortunately I assumed I was building square.
 
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#109 ·
Ident QTY Thickness Width Height Length
A 1 .125" 2" 3" 48"
B 2 .125" 2" 3" 63 15/16"
C 1 .125" 2" 3" 48"
D 1 .125" 2" 3" 48"
E 2 .125" 2" 3" 144"
F 1 .125" 2" 2" 48"
G 1 .125" 2" 2" 48"
H 1 .125" 2" 3" 27 1/2"
I 4 .25" 5" 5"
1 2 .125" 1 1/2" 1 1/2" 13 7/8"
2 2 .125" 2" 2" 9 15/16"
3 2 .125" 2" 2" 13 1/2"
4 2 .125 2" 2" 10 3/4"
4 PINS 5/8" dia x 1 3/8" long for the tops of 1 and 2
Thanks goes to Kevin
 
#110 ·
Thank you Madspeed, built the jig.

Luckily I did measure diagonally.

Only problem is I also used 5/8" pins but they seem too large to fit in the holes. Body is sitting on top of the pins. I will cut them down and try taper them a little. I would suggest using 1/2" pins don't you think? Seems like a little bit of room on the pins would be better than them not fitting.

I know that issue was addressed further back in the topic but I can't remember what was decided, and couldn't read the cut list off the plans!
 

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#111 ·
Oops never mind, I figured it out. I had the pins too tall and they must have been just out of square enough that they wouldn't allow the body to drop on easily. I cut the pins down to have a 1" stickup off the top of the posts, cleaned out a little rust from the inside of the holes on the body side, and it dropped right on. Thanks for the great, straightforward plans!
 
#113 ·
Hi all, I have a quick question about the uprights labeled as #1, the ones that fit into the firewall locations. Why is a dimension of 1" square tube chosen over 2"? Is if for clearance around the hole for locating pins? Is it to provide better clearance for sliding a floorpan in? I took a quick reading of where it fits and guesstimated there was enough clearance to use 2" square tube like #'s 2, 3,4, but was puzzled as to why the call out for 1" was specified.
 
#114 ·
you are welcome to use whatever you choose that fits. I chose to only use 1" because a when a tube is positioned vertically, it is stronger, and will not flex. For this situation, it is all you need. It also reduces the cost of materials-- not alot-- but it does. Feel free to modify it as you choose. These are just plans shared to help others as a guide.
 
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#115 ·
ced715 said:
Thank you Madspeed, built the jig.

Luckily I did measure diagonally.

Only problem is I also used 5/8" pins but they seem too large to fit in the holes. Body is sitting on top of the pins. I will cut them down and try taper them a little. I would suggest using 1/2" pins don't you think? Seems like a little bit of room on the pins would be better than them not fitting.

I know that issue was addressed further back in the topic but I can't remember what was decided, and couldn't read the cut list off the plans!
Click to expand...
Looks GREAT! Lucky to have a convertible! Brace up those door openings if you havent done so already.
 
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#116 ·
6781camaro said:
you are welcome to use whatever you choose that fits. I chose to only use 1" because a when a tube is positioned vertically, it is stronger, and will not flex. For this situation, it is all you need. It also reduces the cost of materials-- not alot-- but it does. Feel free to modify it as you choose. These are just plans shared to help others as a guide.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Todd.
After owning my bucket of rusty bolts for way too many years-( but collecting parts most of that time), and needing to finish my '70 Chevelle frame off resto, the '67 RS is about to go onto my own version of the jig- (consists of an old homemade "cart", has 4 wheels and steers like a car)
 
#117 ·
Question. Why am I seeing the rear 15-3/4” vertical measurement on some drawings, yet my Fisher book measurement is 1/16” less at 15-11/16”? I haven’t checked the other dimensions, but suspect others to have slight differences.
 
#118 ·
general23cmp said:
Question. Why am I seeing the rear 15-3/4” vertical measurement on some drawings, yet my Fisher book measurement is 1/16” less at 15-11/16”? I haven’t checked the other dimensions, but suspect others to have slight differences.
Click to expand...
You have a Fisher Book that's out of date. :wink2: It says 15 3/4" on my GM schematics and printouts and I had NO issues there... along with all of the other dimensions --- same for the many others who have use this thread to build their carts. If you "suspect other errors" then double-check them all and build it to suit your custom needs. :nerd:

These cars are never the same nor "perfect" and they have much larger tolerances than you think... so if you remember that-- your build will be that much more enjoyable. :smile2:
 
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#119 ·
It must be a common “out of date” dimension as I did a Google image search and saw the 15-11/16” on several diagrams. I doubt 1/16” matters here, but wonder which is “truth”. My numbers were supposedly assembly line inspection numbers.
 
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