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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I know nothing about digital tail lights.
would this be something worthy to get?
1968 Camaro RS "Rallye Sport" LED Taillights + LED Flasher True Plug & Play Kit

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$133.00

+ $13.65 Shipping


  • Get it by Saturday, Apr 21 from Hanover, Massachusetts
  • • New condition
  • • Returns accepted - 14 days money back
1968 Camaro RS Taillights w/ LED Flasher. ALL LED Taillights Require LED Flasher For The Turn Signals. LED Flasher Included. Fits All 1968 Camaro RS Models.




* Fits All 1968 Camaro RS Models.
* Replaces Lenses & Bulbs, Just Plug In.
* 48 Super Bright LED's In Each Light, Complete with Red Polycarbonate Lens
* Dual Function with Tail Light & Bright Stop/Turn Signal
* All Red Lens without Back Up Light
* Fits Left and Right Hand Side
* Epoxy Coated, Fully Sealed Electronics
* Easy Electrical Connection with 1157 Plug, No Modification to Vehicle
* ALL LED Taillights Require LED Flasher For The Turn Signals.
* LED Flasher Included


*** SOLD IN PAIRS ***
 
#2 ·
I don't know anything about that model,

I do know the plate type look pretty good, I know the ones that Matt's Classic Bowtie (MCB) sell are good since a buddy had them.

I have all LED bulbs in my car,but I went cheap with just the replacement bulbs and electronic flashers.


Bulbs from this place
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofit/2625/#/attributes/13

And flashers from Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-90652
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I tried the bulbs you show in the link along with the flasher and I could see no difference

as I look at the picture closer, I see 4 lenses and only two plugs. will the lenses without plugs be dark?
 
#4 ·
Since those are RS tail lights, I would hope the entire thing lit up the same, but since I've never seen those I couldn't say.

I agree,the bulbs don't make a lot of difference compared to the nice plate replacement type,but I changed one side before the other to see how it looked,it was pretty obvious to me.
 
#8 ·
fastercar68 said:
I got this brand years ago. Very easy install. Best 'bang for the buck" upgrade I've done other than the brakes.
Click to expand...


Bought a set for the 67 I owned from a member on here. Very easy to install as mentioned and works great!

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
I got the set listed above and I am very happy with them. 2x as bright as original bulbs. the reason I wanted the RS is because I removed the backup light and installed the other 2 red lenses because I have a backup camera
 
#10 ·
I bought most of the parts to build a set of sequential LED tails, but I've decided to pick up a set already made. Also, my Emergency Flasher button looks like it got broken in the steering column and I haven't really spent any time trying to figure out if its fixable. Could always rig a remote switch if I can't fix it easily. Do have a couple of questions about flashers and bulbs though.

1. Do I need to replace both flashers with LED-specific ones? Why do some have ground wires? Latest models?

2. Was looking at replacing the bulbs in my front directional/running lights. Some new models at Amazon, they have a glass projector lens in the front. They come in bright white, amber, and red (for tails). Anyone here use these?

3. I have also seen some LED "bulbs" I believe they are called "switchback" that are white until you use the directional and then they glow amber. Ditto... anybody using these?
 

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#11 ·
57vette said:
1. Do I need to replace both flashers with LED-specific ones?
Click to expand...
You need to replace BOTH as one does turns and the other does hazards but BOTH share the same lamps.

57vette said:
Why do some have ground wires? Latest models?
Click to expand...
Most of the quality flashers have to have their own grounds since they have to run the light show totally different than a thermal flasher does.

Wells-AirTex USED to make a great solid-state flasher unit that could do both analogue and LED bulbs without a ground wire but I have not seen it in the catalog for a couple years now.

57vette said:
2. Was looking at replacing the bulbs in my front directional/running lights. Some new models at Amazon, they have a glass projector lens in the front. They come in bright white, amber, and red (for tails). Anyone here use these?
Click to expand...
The glass lens helps focus the light to a brighter point, which means less LEDS are needed making the shape and size smaller.

57vette said:
3. I have also seen some LED "bulbs" I believe they are called "switchback" that are white until you use the directional and then they glow amber. Ditto... anybody using these?
Click to expand...
This is the new standard for many new vehicles.So it was only a matter of time before someone brought them to the aftermarket.
 
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#12 ·
Hey Brian...

Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to do my homework with regard to trying to find a well-rated pair of flashers (ours are 2-prong right?) that can handle the LEDs, and also have to look at the "switchback" versions of the lensed LED bulbs. I'm not going to cut up the rear tail to put in authentic RS backup lights, I bought a license plate frame with white LEDs on either side and will wire that in as soon as I can figure out the wire setup from the harness to the Hurst switch on my trans. Will update when its all working :).
 
#13 ·
Kevin, the ones you have pictured in the first post are made by United Pacific. There is nothing wrong with them, I used to have a pair in my car. The only reason I changed is because I switched to an aftermarket Billet tail light housing. Otherwise I would still have them. Great pieces that are plug and play with the factory connectors. They only blink on/off, no sequential lighting or anything like that. I have the digitails ones now are their installation is a little more involved wiring wise. Both LEDs are great. I have attached the relay I get off of Amazon.

As for the flasher, it was stated you have to change both of them. That is 100% correct. I use the ones with the ground wires. Had issues with the ones without, switched them and have been trouble free for almost 10 years.

Those ones pictured look like an older version. The ones they advertise on Summit and Jegs are one panel for each side. Hope this helps.
 

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#14 · (Edited)
57vette said:
Hey Brian... (ours are 2-prong right?).
Click to expand...
Yes. More than you want to know:

Original Equipment flashers were either round or square in shape and made of Tin or Aluminum. Some had a small square block on top that inserted into a metal clip for mounting under the dash. Many GM's including Camaro had a flasher mounted under the dash, and one in the fuse block. All GM, Ford, Chrysler and AMC's had two prongs at an angle like "pigeon feet" or "pigeon toes". Imports sometimes used ones with three, in straight blades, and some used US style. Some original style flashers were shorties about an inch tall, others were "high-hat" up to three inches tall and some were marked HD or Heavy Duty and marketed as heavy duty. Heavy duty could handle the added resistance of trailer lights, and had a louder clink clink clink sound and always had the same measured beat. You could use HD in any regular car especially if you wanted the steady rhythmic pulse, and have it loud enough to hear over the stereo.

All were thermal based but as time went on the HD versions took on internal flashing circuits and eventually became solid-state. And eventually all the flashers became made of plastic and solid-state. However all of these class of flashers required the resistance of the bulb filament. If the bulb was dead, the flasher did not flash and the indicator stayed lit telling you that you had a dead bulb somewhere. Regular duty flashers also did not have a set rhythm, but the vehicles resistance load set the pace as the thermal tongue opened and closed the circuit. Most people bought and used HD flashers since they lasted longer, were louder and cost the same as regular duty at most stores.

LED flashers are also solid-state. The majority made now have their own internal circuitry and they need a ground since they are acting as a light sequencer, not an on/off pulse as the old thermal flashers did. The early LED flashers truly sucked in the performance department. When they worked they were too fast, and made no noise. Come on we NEED the clink clink clink right? So manufactures listened and restored the clink, slowed the flash and made the LED compatible flashers also able to work with analogue bulbs in the circuit along with LED. Handy when your bulb craps out and the Seven-Eleven only has analogue ones at two in the morning. :)

I think Wells-AirTex - rebranded for many parts store's in house brands as well - in the early 90's use to make a clear case, first generation solid-state flasher that had a small speaker on the side with perforated holes on one area of the side for the clinker sound to escape from. :) This series sadly was phased out as it did not work with LED's.

Brian
 
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#15 · (Edited)
The good news is that I ordered and installed two of the digital flashers Chris pointed out and I now have a nicer flashing ratio and a ticking when it flashes! Never had that before. Grounded both flashers.

I'm not 100% sure about how to remove the front directional light housing. I thought just removing the three front screws would allow the lens section to pull out so I can install the LED turn signal bulb. Ahhh... checked the Assembly manual, looks like its just stuck. Got it out after a little wiggling with a screwdriver in one hole LOL. But... the LED bulb doesn't go far enough into the socket to lock. There's a good sized knurled flange on the bulbs I bought that prevents it. Will return and try an alternate if I can find one.

The sequential tails I can install easy enough, but I have to run a switched power wire from the fuse panel back to the trunk. I'll have to save the wiring chore for another day. Apparently you can run straight lights (all three LED panels at once) by just plugging into the outside socket.
 
#16 ·
Just an update... I did get my sequential LED tails working a few days ago. Mine are from EasyPerformance.Com and they installed in the stock shells very nicely, there's three separate PCBs with surface mounted LEDs. They are available with or without the integral white back up light. I chose the RS version since I have Billet tails. Anyway, the combo works great... the lights are extremely bright, and they have a bunch of different user-selected flashing pattern options. I chose the obvious... sequential repeat from the center to the outside. The toughest part of this project was getting the back seat out because this system requires an ignition on 12v line to function properly... also requires LED specific flashers. Some systems don't require a new 12v line, probably tap current from existing lines. But all you do is plug in the connector to the outboard bulb on each side and they work as normal tails. connect the 12v line and you have the programming option. Once you select an option via a surface-mounted button on the outside tail, the on-board chip stores it and it'll operate like that until you go back and reset the button. Tricky to access, you have to stick your finger in through the bulb socket hole and tap the button.
 

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#18 ·
I'm not good with posting video clips lol here so thanks Brian. Currently running Sequence 1, Sequence 2 is very similar to typical Mustang setups... but I might try it. Right now I like the sequential crawl of #1 LOL.
 
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