I am creating this thread to try to organize the information about installing 1967 Windows into the car. These are different than '68 and '69 since they have unique parts and the WONDERFUL vent windows :beers:
I hope this helps and please add to anything I forgot!!!
Glass Installation on a 1967 Camaro Coupe
Intro:
This article discusses the installation procedure for installing the door and quarter glass in a 1967 Camaro. This is meant to help future enthusiasts work through the process without having to scour as many sources across the internet. This article was created by Bill Jamison after becoming frustrated with the lack of diagrams and installation information on the ’67 versus ’68 and ’69 Camaros.
Considerations with a ’67:
The 1967 Camaro windows work completely different than later models. The primary reason is the fact that the ’67 cars have the vent windows that later models do not. These vent windows create additional steps for the installer and add an additional adjustment variable for final fitting. Another difference is the channel that the ’67 door glass fits in. The later models use the window as a stressed member, if you will, and do not use the large window sash that the ’67 cars do. The Quarter Glass on all models are identical.
Below are some photographs of 1967 and 1968 Camaros with the vent window difference being clearly noticeable.
![Image]()
1967 Camaro – note vent window
![Image]()
1968 Camaro – note no vent window
Before Deconstruction:
After removing the door panels and environmental sealing material, take note of all bolts and where they fit. Below is a picture of the door and window bolts before removal:
![Image]()
Teardown:
When you disassemble the doors, screw the bolts back into the pieces they came off of. You might even mark the door as to what bolts where. Mark where the adjustment nuts for the tracks (horizontal and vertical) are bolted on the door frame for reference during re-install. When you unbolt the system, start with the door release mechanism and the latch assembly and rod. These are not necessary to remove the glass but will give you room to work.
After the door mechanism, roll the window up to remove the rear window stop and then down to remove the front.
Next, loosen the vertical track bolts so that the track can move back and forth freely. This helps slide the window out without damaging any rollers that can be salvaged.
Next move on to the screws in the sash. Roll the window all the way down and the sash track screws will come into view. The sash track is the horizontal track that is screwed to the frame along the bottom of the window. By removing these screws, you are effectively separating the window and frame from the regulator. You may have to remove the trim along the window opening and replace it but with great care, you can grab the top of the window and slide it up and out. Take special note of the rear roller and make sure you do not catch it on the door and break it off.
Now remove the rear vertical track and the bolts for the stationary horizontal track. You can now unbolt the regulator and carefully remove it from the door.
Next remove the vent window by unscrewing the chrome screw above the door panel trim, unbolting the lower flat nut, removing the flat nut from the front of the door and the bolt at the front or the door. The vent window can now be lifted up, rotated 90 degrees and removed. Place pieces of tape on adjustment screws to record the adjustments if you are getting the rails and chrome restored.
For the rear quarter windows, on bolt the regulator and remove it. Mark where the flat nuts are for the rails for installation and loosen them so the rail can move. You will probably have to remove the window chrome trim to get the window out. Once the rail is loose, gently slide the window up and forward and it will come out. Then remove the rails and mark where the adjusters are with tape on the threads.
Vent Window:
The vent window is a lot of fun! The main structure is the chrome frame and the track bolts into it while sandwiching the vent window and weatherstripping in between. There are clips that hold the weatherstripping into the chrome frame so be careful removing and re-installing them because THEY DO BREAK EASILY! The easiest way to install the weatherstripping is to slide it into the horizontal channel piece and then bend the tabs on the back to secure it to the vertical part of the channel. The pictures will help with this and it is an exercise in patience getting the whole thing lined up and together. I would suggest a helper (not your spouse!) in this part of the install.
Make sure to replace the channel felt for the window guides. This is easy to do but start from the top!
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. Rotate the window 90 degrees to get it in the door opening and gently drop and rotate as you watch where to line up the bolts.
Side windows:
Let’s define the parts we are dealing with before talking about reconstruction since many are building from scratch or a pile of parts.
Window Frame or sash:
There are a lot of names for this part but it is the long piece that the window is pressed into. It has white nylon plastic on the front to slide through the vent window channel and a roller on the back that slides into the Vertical Track.
(No picture – Sorry)
Stationary H Track (H for horizontal):
The Stationary H Track bolts to the door and has ONE regulator roller running through it. It does not move while the window rolls up and down.
![Image]()
Window H Track:
The Window H Track screws into the window frame and has TWO rollers from the window regulator running through it. This moves up and down with the window.
![Image]()
Vertical Track:
The Vertical Track bolts to the door near the back and has the roller from the window frame running through it, This is adjustable both fore and aft as well as in and out (port and starboard if this were a boat).
(No picture – Sorry)
Regulator:
The regulator is the window crank assembly that actually rolls the window up and down. This wears out over time and the reproductions from OER are pretty good.
![Image]()
Door Window Regulator
Rollers:
The rollers on the ’67 window assembly are wear items and break down over time but are not reproduced like the ’68 and later parts are. ’68 parts can be used with some modification as can COTS (Commercial off the Shelf) items from your local hardware store.
![Image]()
COTS roller but there are ones available with threaded axles (recommended)
Replacement of rollers:
If you look closely at the pre-disassembly photos, you will notice the regulator is separated from the window H track. This is because the rollers have disintegrated. This is very common on both the regulators and the window frame itself. It is a ridiculous endeavor to try to replace the rollers on the regulators. By new, repro or reconditioned ones. It is worth your time and money! I bought repro OER regs and they worked great.
The rollers on the frame are a different story though. The ’67 rollers are NOT reproduced as of this writing so I went to Home Depot (hardware stores are great too!). There are rollers that are produced for shower stalls, drawers or other applications that work very well. You can buy ’68 Camaro roller parts but they have rivets that you have to hammer on and I was not a fan of that since by the time I figured out that the rollers weren’t reproduced, the windows were already in the frames. I bought the rollers in the picture below that bolted on. They worked VERY well.
Installation of the window into the frame:
There is a long piece of rubber that sits between the glass and the frame. This is not reproduced. If you have a leftover piece that is worn out, you can cut some one inch pieces from it and use it to hold the window in the right position in the frame. Before installing the glass in the channel, fill the channel with 3M window caulking (make sure it is the kind that dries) and it will dry and hold the window in place very nicely!
Installation of the Door Window Assembly:
Now start the installation of the door glass by performing the following steps:
1. Now grease the tracks VERY liberally with white lithium (waterproof) grease.
2. Install the vertical track onto the door but leave it loose so it can move around.
3. Install the regulator assembly into the door. Make sure to grease the teeth liberally if they are not
4. Slide on the Stationary H Track onto the arm with the roller on the INSIDE of the rotating reg arm and bolt it onto the door frame.
5. Now slide the window H track onto the Rotating arm with the roller on the OUTSIDE and on the stationary roller arm rollers. Leave it sitting there temporarily.
6. Roll the regulator all the way down
7. Now slide the window and frame assembly down into the door opening, slipping the front guide into the vent window channel and slowly sliding down (use two people). As the roller slips through the opening, line up the vertical track so that the roller slips into it.
8. As the window comes down, line up the two holes on the frame with the window H track and screw the two screws in. Mine were stripped so I used a nut and screw to secure them.
9. Carefully check the travel for the window up through the tracks and tighten the vertical H track to keep the window against the front vertical window track. This is where it helps if you marked where the bolt was during disassembly.
10. Be careful that the bolts do not interfere with the travel of the repro regulator if you have one. I had to put a couple of washers in to keep it from catching on the regulator.
11. Reinstall the window guide with some new felt from the chrome trim kit if you got one. If you do not have a ’67 guide for your window, you can use a guide from a ’68 but you have to cut it down to fit into the smaller slot for the ’67. See the picture below for a before and after.
12. Now roll the window all the way up and install the window stops. If you want to restore them, strip off the old rubber and then dip them in tool handle plastic coating from Home Depot.
13. Reinstall door hardware.
![Image]()
Guide with cutting marks. May take some iterations to fit.
Quarter Windows:
The quarter windows are easy to install but difficult to adjust. Rather than trying to replace individual rollers and springs, I would suggest the repro assemblies that you can purchase that has the metal backing, rollers, springs and rubber seal. This saves a lot of pain. Make sure that the track on the re-installed roller assembly is at the bottom of the window. It is easy to get the sides swapped and the track will then be too high on the window and will not let it roll up all the way.
To install, grease the rails and install them loosely in the body of the car. Then gently slide the window assembly into the opening, lining up the rollers with the rails and letting the window slide down and back. Then install the regulator assembly by lifting the window slightly to let the roller slip into the track and then lining up the holes. Next adjust the window stop to set the max roll-up height.
There is a great thread on installing quarter windows at :
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=140382
![Image]()
Repro Quarter Window Roller plate
Window Adjustment:
Window adjustment can be frustrating if you do not have the adjusters marked from removal or if you have different parts from original. After installing the Vent window, shut the door and make sure that the top of the window is against the weatherstripping and does not prevent the door from closing easily. If it does, adjust the bottom adjuster in or out to pull the top of the window in or out.
Next roll both the door and rear windows up and shut the door. For the door glass, you are looking at the gap between the rear window and the door window. Look at where the window lines up with the weatherstripping also. If the window needs to come in or out, adjust the Vertical Track in and out to help close the gap.
Now the quarter window! There are some really good sticky threads on Camaros.net so this is a quick overview. The three adjusters pull the window in and out while the whole track moves fore and aft. First I rolled the window up and checked alignment of the vertical seal and the edge of the door glass. I slid the rail fore and aft until it lined up correctly. After that, I adjusted the screw adjusters until it sat squarely against the door glass. Be careful and roll the window up and down since it moves so much relative to the body of the car when it rolls up and down. This is an iterative process and requires patience.
Summary:
I hope this helps someone in the future with a ’67 Camaro. The lack of repro parts hurts a bit but you can overcome most shortcomings rather easily and there will be more parts in the future as companies see the demand for the pieces.
I hope this helps and please add to anything I forgot!!!
Glass Installation on a 1967 Camaro Coupe
Intro:
This article discusses the installation procedure for installing the door and quarter glass in a 1967 Camaro. This is meant to help future enthusiasts work through the process without having to scour as many sources across the internet. This article was created by Bill Jamison after becoming frustrated with the lack of diagrams and installation information on the ’67 versus ’68 and ’69 Camaros.
Considerations with a ’67:
The 1967 Camaro windows work completely different than later models. The primary reason is the fact that the ’67 cars have the vent windows that later models do not. These vent windows create additional steps for the installer and add an additional adjustment variable for final fitting. Another difference is the channel that the ’67 door glass fits in. The later models use the window as a stressed member, if you will, and do not use the large window sash that the ’67 cars do. The Quarter Glass on all models are identical.
Below are some photographs of 1967 and 1968 Camaros with the vent window difference being clearly noticeable.
1967 Camaro – note vent window
1968 Camaro – note no vent window
Before Deconstruction:
After removing the door panels and environmental sealing material, take note of all bolts and where they fit. Below is a picture of the door and window bolts before removal:
Teardown:
When you disassemble the doors, screw the bolts back into the pieces they came off of. You might even mark the door as to what bolts where. Mark where the adjustment nuts for the tracks (horizontal and vertical) are bolted on the door frame for reference during re-install. When you unbolt the system, start with the door release mechanism and the latch assembly and rod. These are not necessary to remove the glass but will give you room to work.
After the door mechanism, roll the window up to remove the rear window stop and then down to remove the front.
Next, loosen the vertical track bolts so that the track can move back and forth freely. This helps slide the window out without damaging any rollers that can be salvaged.
Next move on to the screws in the sash. Roll the window all the way down and the sash track screws will come into view. The sash track is the horizontal track that is screwed to the frame along the bottom of the window. By removing these screws, you are effectively separating the window and frame from the regulator. You may have to remove the trim along the window opening and replace it but with great care, you can grab the top of the window and slide it up and out. Take special note of the rear roller and make sure you do not catch it on the door and break it off.
Now remove the rear vertical track and the bolts for the stationary horizontal track. You can now unbolt the regulator and carefully remove it from the door.
Next remove the vent window by unscrewing the chrome screw above the door panel trim, unbolting the lower flat nut, removing the flat nut from the front of the door and the bolt at the front or the door. The vent window can now be lifted up, rotated 90 degrees and removed. Place pieces of tape on adjustment screws to record the adjustments if you are getting the rails and chrome restored.
For the rear quarter windows, on bolt the regulator and remove it. Mark where the flat nuts are for the rails for installation and loosen them so the rail can move. You will probably have to remove the window chrome trim to get the window out. Once the rail is loose, gently slide the window up and forward and it will come out. Then remove the rails and mark where the adjusters are with tape on the threads.
Vent Window:
The vent window is a lot of fun! The main structure is the chrome frame and the track bolts into it while sandwiching the vent window and weatherstripping in between. There are clips that hold the weatherstripping into the chrome frame so be careful removing and re-installing them because THEY DO BREAK EASILY! The easiest way to install the weatherstripping is to slide it into the horizontal channel piece and then bend the tabs on the back to secure it to the vertical part of the channel. The pictures will help with this and it is an exercise in patience getting the whole thing lined up and together. I would suggest a helper (not your spouse!) in this part of the install.
Make sure to replace the channel felt for the window guides. This is easy to do but start from the top!
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. Rotate the window 90 degrees to get it in the door opening and gently drop and rotate as you watch where to line up the bolts.
Side windows:
Let’s define the parts we are dealing with before talking about reconstruction since many are building from scratch or a pile of parts.
Window Frame or sash:
There are a lot of names for this part but it is the long piece that the window is pressed into. It has white nylon plastic on the front to slide through the vent window channel and a roller on the back that slides into the Vertical Track.
(No picture – Sorry)
Stationary H Track (H for horizontal):
The Stationary H Track bolts to the door and has ONE regulator roller running through it. It does not move while the window rolls up and down.
Window H Track:
The Window H Track screws into the window frame and has TWO rollers from the window regulator running through it. This moves up and down with the window.
Vertical Track:
The Vertical Track bolts to the door near the back and has the roller from the window frame running through it, This is adjustable both fore and aft as well as in and out (port and starboard if this were a boat).
(No picture – Sorry)
Regulator:
The regulator is the window crank assembly that actually rolls the window up and down. This wears out over time and the reproductions from OER are pretty good.
Door Window Regulator
Rollers:
The rollers on the ’67 window assembly are wear items and break down over time but are not reproduced like the ’68 and later parts are. ’68 parts can be used with some modification as can COTS (Commercial off the Shelf) items from your local hardware store.
COTS roller but there are ones available with threaded axles (recommended)
Replacement of rollers:
If you look closely at the pre-disassembly photos, you will notice the regulator is separated from the window H track. This is because the rollers have disintegrated. This is very common on both the regulators and the window frame itself. It is a ridiculous endeavor to try to replace the rollers on the regulators. By new, repro or reconditioned ones. It is worth your time and money! I bought repro OER regs and they worked great.
The rollers on the frame are a different story though. The ’67 rollers are NOT reproduced as of this writing so I went to Home Depot (hardware stores are great too!). There are rollers that are produced for shower stalls, drawers or other applications that work very well. You can buy ’68 Camaro roller parts but they have rivets that you have to hammer on and I was not a fan of that since by the time I figured out that the rollers weren’t reproduced, the windows were already in the frames. I bought the rollers in the picture below that bolted on. They worked VERY well.
Installation of the window into the frame:
There is a long piece of rubber that sits between the glass and the frame. This is not reproduced. If you have a leftover piece that is worn out, you can cut some one inch pieces from it and use it to hold the window in the right position in the frame. Before installing the glass in the channel, fill the channel with 3M window caulking (make sure it is the kind that dries) and it will dry and hold the window in place very nicely!
Installation of the Door Window Assembly:
Now start the installation of the door glass by performing the following steps:
1. Now grease the tracks VERY liberally with white lithium (waterproof) grease.
2. Install the vertical track onto the door but leave it loose so it can move around.
3. Install the regulator assembly into the door. Make sure to grease the teeth liberally if they are not
4. Slide on the Stationary H Track onto the arm with the roller on the INSIDE of the rotating reg arm and bolt it onto the door frame.
5. Now slide the window H track onto the Rotating arm with the roller on the OUTSIDE and on the stationary roller arm rollers. Leave it sitting there temporarily.
6. Roll the regulator all the way down
7. Now slide the window and frame assembly down into the door opening, slipping the front guide into the vent window channel and slowly sliding down (use two people). As the roller slips through the opening, line up the vertical track so that the roller slips into it.
8. As the window comes down, line up the two holes on the frame with the window H track and screw the two screws in. Mine were stripped so I used a nut and screw to secure them.
9. Carefully check the travel for the window up through the tracks and tighten the vertical H track to keep the window against the front vertical window track. This is where it helps if you marked where the bolt was during disassembly.
10. Be careful that the bolts do not interfere with the travel of the repro regulator if you have one. I had to put a couple of washers in to keep it from catching on the regulator.
11. Reinstall the window guide with some new felt from the chrome trim kit if you got one. If you do not have a ’67 guide for your window, you can use a guide from a ’68 but you have to cut it down to fit into the smaller slot for the ’67. See the picture below for a before and after.
12. Now roll the window all the way up and install the window stops. If you want to restore them, strip off the old rubber and then dip them in tool handle plastic coating from Home Depot.
13. Reinstall door hardware.
Guide with cutting marks. May take some iterations to fit.
Quarter Windows:
The quarter windows are easy to install but difficult to adjust. Rather than trying to replace individual rollers and springs, I would suggest the repro assemblies that you can purchase that has the metal backing, rollers, springs and rubber seal. This saves a lot of pain. Make sure that the track on the re-installed roller assembly is at the bottom of the window. It is easy to get the sides swapped and the track will then be too high on the window and will not let it roll up all the way.
To install, grease the rails and install them loosely in the body of the car. Then gently slide the window assembly into the opening, lining up the rollers with the rails and letting the window slide down and back. Then install the regulator assembly by lifting the window slightly to let the roller slip into the track and then lining up the holes. Next adjust the window stop to set the max roll-up height.
There is a great thread on installing quarter windows at :
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=140382
Repro Quarter Window Roller plate
Window Adjustment:
Window adjustment can be frustrating if you do not have the adjusters marked from removal or if you have different parts from original. After installing the Vent window, shut the door and make sure that the top of the window is against the weatherstripping and does not prevent the door from closing easily. If it does, adjust the bottom adjuster in or out to pull the top of the window in or out.
Next roll both the door and rear windows up and shut the door. For the door glass, you are looking at the gap between the rear window and the door window. Look at where the window lines up with the weatherstripping also. If the window needs to come in or out, adjust the Vertical Track in and out to help close the gap.
Now the quarter window! There are some really good sticky threads on Camaros.net so this is a quick overview. The three adjusters pull the window in and out while the whole track moves fore and aft. First I rolled the window up and checked alignment of the vertical seal and the edge of the door glass. I slid the rail fore and aft until it lined up correctly. After that, I adjusted the screw adjusters until it sat squarely against the door glass. Be careful and roll the window up and down since it moves so much relative to the body of the car when it rolls up and down. This is an iterative process and requires patience.
Summary:
I hope this helps someone in the future with a ’67 Camaro. The lack of repro parts hurts a bit but you can overcome most shortcomings rather easily and there will be more parts in the future as companies see the demand for the pieces.
