Changing the idler arm on my 67 camaro, I ordered one from Auto Zone. The brand is Rare Parts #20227, compared to the one I took off the piece that bolts to the frame on the new one is about 1 inch longer, either the part is packaged wrong or I have 68-69 idler arm on mine. I understand a 67 idler arm is one year only. The new part was pricey, $144. Any thoughts or opinions?
1967 idler arm
67 Big Block
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Changing the idler arm on my 67 camaro, I ordered one from Auto Zone. The brand is Rare Parts #20227, compared to the one I took off the piece that bolts to the frame on the new one is about 1 inch longer, either the part is packaged wrong or I have 68-69 idler arm on mine. I understand a 67 idler arm is one year only. The new part was pricey, $144. Any thoughts or opinions?
In general, the idler arm length should match the Pitman arm length.
Does it?
Does it?
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I have read before about the length of these varying. I would want one that was the same as the one I took out if for no other reason that it would throw off the alignment possibly. Also summit has them for $50.
Ackerman steering
If both are different lengths and drive straight ahead, static alignment will make the tires track straight.
Only in a turn does Ackerman steering come into play.
When making a turn, the inside tire is at a shorter radius than the outside tire.
Ackerman steering gives the correct radius for each tire and contact patch is in the middle of the tire.
Make one arm different length and outside tire will scrub as inside tire has more weight - notice inside fender going up in height when turning?
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I just figured that if the new one was shorter it might pull the ps tie rod a bit more (via the center link) and open up the toe a bit. Nothing an alignment wouldnt fix but just trying to save the guy $50 for an alignment when hes already paying that much for an idler arm. I recently replaced a slightly worn lower ball joint and for some reason ended up with a ton of positive camber. had to add shims to the upper arm mount to even it out.
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Here is David Pozzi's take on idler arms etc. http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_steering.htm#Steering_linkage
I would return that one just for the outrageous price !
I would return that one just for the outrageous price !
Like said above .. it doesnt need the idler and pitman tom be the same length.
I went thru all this many yrs ago and yep have different lengths.
Yes u should get alignment done... but go thru check ALL the other steering suspension parts also .. bearings ball joints top and bottom suspension bushes etc.. then get alignment done.
The length of pitman and idler are not model or yr dependant but are are different options designed to match up with the different option lengths of the bit behind the stub axle to the tie rod length.. which then matches up to the over all ratio of the steering box.... and the other issue is clearing different sump/ engine shapes sizes.
I can air freight one form the east coast USA to NZ pay 15% tax on the cost of the uni, the freight and insurance for about $NZ120 about $70 US or buy off the shelf over here for about $NZ 85
So long as u clear the sump lock to lock u will be ok.. at worst may notice a SLIGHT change in the weight of the steering wheel for the 1st 5 mins.
the lengths of idler and pitman and the distance from centre of stub axle to tie rod are to do with the leverage required, distance travel and steering box type/ ratios.
I went thru all this many yrs ago and yep have different lengths.
Yes u should get alignment done... but go thru check ALL the other steering suspension parts also .. bearings ball joints top and bottom suspension bushes etc.. then get alignment done.
The length of pitman and idler are not model or yr dependant but are are different options designed to match up with the different option lengths of the bit behind the stub axle to the tie rod length.. which then matches up to the over all ratio of the steering box.... and the other issue is clearing different sump/ engine shapes sizes.
Damn thats a BS price...
I can air freight one form the east coast USA to NZ pay 15% tax on the cost of the uni, the freight and insurance for about $NZ120 about $70 US or buy off the shelf over here for about $NZ 85
So long as u clear the sump lock to lock u will be ok.. at worst may notice a SLIGHT change in the weight of the steering wheel for the 1st 5 mins.
the lengths of idler and pitman and the distance from centre of stub axle to tie rod are to do with the leverage required, distance travel and steering box type/ ratios.
Leonard is asking about "the piece that bolts to the frame" (mounting bracket) not the pivot joint to pivot joint length. If the mounting holes are in the same relationship to the joints and the hole pattern is correct, then it will be fine. If it raises or lowers the center link it will effect the toe. As others have stated, that price is outrageous.
It's expensive, but also the only one available that I've found that is an accurate reproduction of the original. That is not an issue for me except for the fact that my headers (Doug's D368) require a dimple if a common parts house (Moog, etc.) idler is used. The parts house idlers are much bigger around in the area circled in the photo below. If that clearance or accuracy isn't important, then yes - wayyy too expensive.
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This is a picture of my old idler arm I know to be a 67 original. My car is not power steering, if that makes a difference.
Hope this helps.
Roger
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I would use the cheaper 68/69 idler on everything unless you have a special clearance issue. The replacement idlers are mid-length at 5.5". 67 is 5.75", 68/9 is 5.5". Moving the drag link forward or rearward affects Ackerman steering correction a little. Not nearly as much as moving the steering arm out or in. GM used two lengths of pitman arms but did not vary the idler arm to match.
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Thanks, my old idler arm has a nut and cotter pin at the bottom of the part bolted to the frame connecting the arm to the center link.
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Thanks for pic. My idler am was nutted at bottom of part bolted to the frame connecting the arm to the center link.
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Perfect advice and detail of the parts house larger diameter ? I also have the dougs headers and dont want to dimple them if i font have to?It's expensive, but also the only one available that I've found that is an accurate reproduction of the original. That is not an issue for me except for the fact that my headers (Doug's D368) require a dimple if a common parts house (Moog, etc.) idler is used. The parts house idlers are much bigger around in the area circled in the photo below. If that clearance or accuracy isn't important, then yes - wayyy too expensive.
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