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Approximate cost to have a shop swap engine in a '67?

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#41 ·
Please check with Blueprint as a TV show using a BluePrint crate engine had metric threads and this was a new BluePrint casting. If they're using an older engine block which I think they don't a new block will be metric threaded .
This can be important as a 3/8 bolt will start to thread into a course 10mm bolt thread.They can easily be mistaken for worn out SAE threads by an installer and then cause lots of problems for you and the mechanic .
 
#42 ·
71350SS said:
Having replaced engines where I worked flat rate that would not be done on a straight engine R&R replacement. If the customer requested that specifically a book time for that "operation" would then be added to the 13 or so R&R hours but it definitely would not be part of an engine replacement. Even if we do consider it necessary ,excepting for the cleanup of the various mounting surfaces and the removal & replacement of known good parts nothing else is part of that job.
Here are some things the OP should consider having ready to bring to the shop if and when the time comes.
New oil & filter - new plugs & make sure they are what the new motors head takes - engine R&R gasket set - motor mounts if existing r not new - sometimes new crate engines are threaded metric ifso provide a new bolt set - a new crank bushing - & speak with the mechanic or shop foreman about the way* to ready that bushings installation is done-- also header gaskets . Having all the parts needed on hand with your new motor will make it go smoother and faster. I'm sure there are more things I'm forgetting for now.
* bushing in the freezer overnight ??
Click to expand...
What's your guess?
 
#44 ·
Stabbing an sbc for a sbc is easy, hooking it all up doing any re-wiring plumbing that looks great when you open the hood takes time.

I helped a good buddy drop a 383 in his mopar one Saturday, He bought lunch and beer.
but he insisted on giving me $1,000 to leave it at my house for a week to hook it all up upgrade ignition ,engine harness, radiator fans fuel plumb…. That’s all time consuming work.

no way I’d do it all for under $2k. Especially if it was my day job.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
copo9560 said:
On wish list, if you want Cal Tracs go with their split mono spring - works better as a package. Don’t forget shocks
Click to expand...
Do they have lowering split mono springs? I'll have to look into that. Someone in the past put aluminum blocks between the axle and the springs to lower the car. It works, but I'd rather get rid of them and get the right springs.

I have KYB Gas Adjust shocks on there now. I haven't had any others, so no way to tell if they are "good" or not (in terms of how they ride). They seem a bit hard/harsh over bumpy roads... Suppose I'll go down that rabbit hole and search the forum for shock recommendations at some point!
 
#50 · (Edited)
916Carl said:
Do they have lowering split mono springs? I'll have to look into that. Someone in the past put aluminum blocks between the axle and the springs to lower the car. It works, but I'd rather get rid of them and get the right springs.

I have KYB Gas Adjust shocks on there now. I haven't had any others, so no way to tell if they are "good" or not (in terms of how they ride). They seem a bit hard/harsh over bumpy roads... Suppose I'll go down that rabbit hole and search the forum for shock recommendations at some point!
Click to expand...
I had KYB Gas Adjusts and threw them out. Might as well have a steel rod as both would ride the same. I bought KYB Excel G factory replacements. Smooth
 
#51 ·
The Gas A Just are the worst.
80s air shocks would even be a huge improvement.
Seriously tho, I had them for maybe 2 miles when I first assembled my car. Terrible shock. But what do expect for $25 ea.
 
#52 ·
You also need to take into consideration wiring. Your 67 probably has the alternator on the drivers side unlike this 383 so wiring comes into play. Not a huge thing to overcome but just another expense that will pop up. Also do you have a HEI if not more wiring. If I was you and to be honest I am glad I am not because I can do this myself and all these little added things can add up. Personally I would get a long block engine that you can transfer your parts, pulleys, hoses, flywheels, reuse your wiring, etc to mount things in their original location and in the long run it will be a simpler and a cheaper task. Are you after max HP or do you just want a nice running 350 engine to replace old smokey? It is easy to install a 350hp engine especially if you swap your existing boltons.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
BillDini said:
You also need to take into consideration wiring. Your 67 probably has the alternator on the drivers side unlike this 383 so wiring comes into play. Not a huge thing to overcome but just another expense that will pop up. Also do you have a HEI if not more wiring. If I was you and to be honest I am glad I am not because I can do this myself and all these little added things can add up. Personally I would get a long block engine that you can transfer your parts, pulleys, hoses, flywheels, reuse your wiring, etc to mount things in their original location and in the long run it will be a simpler and a cheaper task. Are you after max HP or do you just want a nice running 350 engine to replace old smokey? It is easy to install a 350hp engine especially if you swap your existing boltons.
Click to expand...
The current alternator is on the passenger side, same as the 383. The issue I'll have to deal with is the BPM alternator is a single wire, while I converted my wiring to 3 wire and bought a Powermaster 150amp alt when I first got the car. It only had a speedometer and gas gauge, so I replaced those and added tach and temp gauges along with warning lights. Did all the wiring myself. So if I can't convert the alternator that comes with the BPM, I'll reuse mine.

As far as transferring parts over; besides the alternator, intake manifold and carb everything else is rusty, worn and just in a bad state. I'm looking forward to new and reliable. And if I'm being honest, more power!



 
#54 ·
916Carl said:
The current alternator is on the passenger side, same as the 383. The issue I'll have to deal with is the BPM alternator is a single wire, while I converted my wiring to 3 wire and bought a Powermaster 150amp alt when I first got the car. It only had a speedometer and gas gauge, so I replaced those and added tach and temp gauges along with warning lights. Did all the wiring myself. So if I can't convert the alternator that comes with the BPM, I'll reuse mine.

As far as transferring parts over; besides the alternator, intake manifold and carb everything else is rusty, worn and just in a bad state. I'm looking forward to new and reliable. And if I'm being honest, more power!
Click to expand...
I would look long and hard at GM NEW replacement engines. Full 1 year warranty with one piece seals, roller cams and great heads will wake up that 67. Ok so it sounds like you are capable of handling the little things that will need to be taken care of. That will certainly help.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
BillDini said:
I would look long and hard at GM NEW replacement engines. Full 1 year warranty with one piece seals, roller cams and great heads will wake up that 67. Ok so it sounds like you are capable of handling the little things that will need to be taken care of. That will certainly help.
Click to expand...
The blueprint 383 has a brand new block, casted and machined in the midwest, has one piece rear seal, roller cams and aluminum heads. It also comes with a 2 1/2 year / 50,000 mile warranty. It's pretty good value for the money.
 
#56 ·
916Carl said:
The blueprint 383 has a brand new block, casted and machined in the midwest, has one piece rear seal, roller cams and aluminum heads. It also comes with a 2 1/2 year / 50,000 mile warranty. It's pretty good value for the money.
Click to expand...
I’ve installed 6 BP engines and friends at least a dozen more.

The GMs are good but more expensive for less engine.
 
#57 ·
BillDini said:
You also need to take into consideration wiring. Your 67 probably has the alternator on the drivers side unlike this 383 so wiring comes into play. Not a huge thing to overcome but just another expense that will pop up. Also do you have a HEI if not more wiring. If I was you and to be honest I am glad I am not because I can do this myself and all these little added things can add up. Personally I would get a long block engine that you can transfer your parts, pulleys, hoses, flywheels, reuse your wiring, etc to mount things in their original location and in the long run it will be a simpler and a cheaper task. Are you after max HP or do you just want a nice running 350 engine to replace old smokey? It is easy to install a 350hp engine especially if you swap your existing boltons.
Click to expand...
Bill, what's your number?
 
#58 ·
ilikeike said:
Stabbing an sbc for a sbc is easy, hooking it all up doing any re-wiring plumbing that looks great when you open the hood takes time.

I helped a good buddy drop a 383 in his mopar one Saturday, He bought lunch and beer.
but he insisted on giving me $1,000 to leave it at my house for a week to hook it all up upgrade ignition ,engine harness, radiator fans fuel plumb…. That’s all time consuming work.

no way I’d do it all for under $2k. Especially if it was my day job.
Click to expand...
I would happily take $2000 for R&R ing SBC in First gen's if I wanted to work, that's gravy work. It didn't take me much more than an hour to pull one back in the day. That would be installed looking the same as the one I pulled, beautification is scope creep / incremental
 
#59 ·
Give the OP a break about having a shop do his engine swap.

While I have always swapped my own engines, transmissions, etc since I was 15 and for the most part all by myself with the exception of having someone help lower motor while I am underneath lining up to trans, R&R hood, etc (but yeah have done it all by myself before).......at 71 now I just don't get up as fast as I did before so having a shop do an engine swap now I would likely do that unless a friend who also can wrench does it with me. Additionally, I can afford this now where for the most part during my younger years I could not.

I still do all my car work otherwise and even have an engine lift and stand but no car lift so its jackstands and laying on cardboard is it. With 3 hobby cars and a DD but only a 2 car garage its a car shuffle and engine swap takes the whole garage so all cars are outside while that happens so that would steer me to a shop to do an engine swap now even though I cringe having someone else do stuff I can...or at least used to.

But as noted...how much is a bag of groceries now...its around $100, not $40-$50 anymore. Shop rates are also considerably higher than 20 years ago and ones that will do this kind of work well are less available. Fortunately for me, I know of a shop I would get this stuff done at and know it's done right if I needed to do an engine swap now.
 
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