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Marc

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Camaro 1968, going along with a propane powered BPE 383 ci, T56, Eaton Posi 4.10:1, MCB Big Brakes
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am interested to understand how you are making sure to avoid undesired vibration / torsion to your radiator.
The radiator come with a large plate on both sides to fix it to the radiator support and I don't see how to make that flexible...
I have 6 subframe solid mounts and SFC on my camaro.
I could change the radiator support mounts back to rubber. What else?

Thanks,
Marc
 
#2 ·
Well nuts.
www.ebay.com

New Rubber Well Nuts Nut Inserts 5/16"-18 (QTY 4) | eBay

These have the brass threaded inserts. These fit a variety of 60's and 70's applications. Includes: Captive Brass Nut. ALL parts are sold "As is" and "Where is" with “All Faults” and “No Warranty, Written or Implied”.
www.ebay.com
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Hi, not sure I fully understand how to use them. I keep the lateral radiator L shape support, enlarge the hole, and what comes between the car support and the radiator support?
Or I have to fabricate another way to support the radiator from under...
thanks!
 
#8 ·
Marc said:
Thanks, I still don't see clearly what comes between radiator support plate and car frame.
Click to expand...
Just the wide flange of the well nut. It compresses and grabs when you tighten it.
 
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#9 ·
Image

As above the rubber flange is between the Rad and support. The tightened bolt compresses the rubber holding it in place.
 
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#11 ·
The anchoring of the radiator on the drivers side is attached with the special nuts but it isn't a metal to metal contact, there is some flexibility once the rubber gets compressed. Its solid but there is movement cushioning the radiator mount on that side.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
The
CantRepeat said:
So you’re asking what mounts the core support to the subframe or what mounts the radiator to the core support?
Click to expand...
what mounts the radiator to the core support
 
#13 ·
Marc said:
what mounts the radiator to the core support
Click to expand...
Originally the radiator used two 5/16" bolts into pierce-nuts on the passenger side, and two #10 hex washer head machine screws into rubber Well-nuts on the driver's side. Well nuts provided for the expansion of the radiator so the joints would not fail. Rubber subframe mounts you spoke about do not affect the radiator at all. Well nuts are common and can be found here at the hardware store. Should be able find them in Belgium.
 
#15 ·
Marc, depending on what holes you use on the CC radiator to mount it to core support on DS, the 2 holes on CC that are larger and slit...you can use a 5/8" grommet on radiator and run the bolt through it through the other 2 holes on core support.

On my CC pic in your other thread, you can see the 2 holes I used on DS as they lined up better.

The 5/8" gromet works well if using those holes.

I use the fixed position on PS where nuts are welded on core support.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thanks guys it is now clear!
Since I have my car for more than 20 years I have never been thinking about the radiator attaching points as the car simply had bolts to fix the radiator rigid to the frame.

Reading the assembly manual is always a god thing to do at nights :)

I have removed the radiator and I concentrated on making some plugs so I could put some water in it with a little pressure.
The leak is found now for sure, and invisible at the eye so I am afraid this is not repairable.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Marc, the radiator support has two holes that are dimpled. The wide part of the rubber nut fits inside the dimple and the radiator mounting flange goes over the rubber head. There are two of them on the driver's side. The radiator is really solidly bolted to the core support. Like mentioned above, the rubber nuts are there for heat expansion. They are not there for vibration.

Your radiator might mount on the dimple to the left of the red circle. Mine bolts on the outside ones.
Image


My heat exchanger for the super charger mounts with two rubber grommets. On the bottom of the heat exchanger, there are two aluminum pins.

Image






Image




The two pins are inserted into two rubber grommets. The rubber grommets are held by an aluminum bracket that is bolted to the radiator core support.



Image







Image


The grommet design might be what you are looking for. I don't think a Camaro radiator for your car will bolt up this way.
 
#19 ·
Thank you Patrick !
It is as always very clear!

(I don't understand how google now created automatically another use account on the site and I can't log out... but it is me:) )

Indeed my radiator does not have the lower pins.

What I still wonders now is the best way to mount the aluminum radiator correctly on a stiff car with aluminum body mounts. If the rubber well nuts are there only to allow for heat dissipation, the vibration issue is still there.

Do you guys mount the radiator on these well nuts and just leave it this way?
I read earlier that there is no need and it is unwanted to change the front radiator support body mounts back to rubber ones.

What I am thinking about is, like Patrick is showing, to have the radiator lay on 2 rubber pads (or feet). This could be made with 2 home made brackets.

What are you using as a flexible, fixing method?
 
#20 ·
Marc, my CC is just bolted to core support with the exception of I used 5/8" rubber gromets using the 2 larger opening on DS CC flange (gromet is attached to that flange) with nut/bolt running through the rubber gromet/core support. Basically, mimicking what Well nuts would using the other two, smaller holes in core support/radiator. I do however have rubber core support and body mounts so to what extend they offer more forgiveness in core support flex vs solids, I assume some.

I agree rubber saddles upper and lower like my other cars have for radiator support would "cushion" the radiator better but 1st gens just bolt to core support with DS using Well nuts. They don't on PS so to what extent the well nuts absorb vibration I would think minimally and the note in other post mentioning the well nuts are to allocate for heat expansion...maybe because you don't have them its the expansion against a fixed fastener you have that caused the radiator to leak....or it is just a bad glue weld of the tank.
 
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