I bought a new version of a 69 Camaro radio, instead of an amp, the radio has 4 channel at 45 each. I am only using two rear speakers. can I tie front left and rear left and run double power to the rear speaker? Then same to the other side? To use the power of all 4 circuits? Or does it not work lIke that? I can do an amp but then more wires to the battery.
Radio install? Can I tie front left and right together?
Melmount
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I bought a new version of a 69 Camaro radio, instead of an amp, the radio has 4 channel at 45 each. I am only using two rear speakers. can I tie front left and rear left and run double power to the rear speaker? Then same to the other side? To use the power of all 4 circuits? Or does it not work lIke that? I can do an amp but then more wires to the battery.
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On "paper", that may work if you set the "fade" (front and rear) control in the middle. Not sure if the actual result equates to twice the power to rear speakers
You do want to match ohm output level of radio to speaker selection.
FWIW I also have a 4 ch radio that is 200 watts (4x50) but I have it wired, L-R to 2 front dash, 4", speakers and 2 rear 6x9. I have fade more favoring the rears and EQ for fronts favoring more high frequencies and for me prefer that balance
I will say my set-up is quite loud
You do want to match ohm output level of radio to speaker selection.
FWIW I also have a 4 ch radio that is 200 watts (4x50) but I have it wired, L-R to 2 front dash, 4", speakers and 2 rear 6x9. I have fade more favoring the rears and EQ for fronts favoring more high frequencies and for me prefer that balance
I will say my set-up is quite loud
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I would not tie them together. One will back feed the other due to impedance mismatches. My buddy and I tried that once in high school back in the 89's and blew out a brand new stereo.
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Running left front and rear together won’t get you anything extra, and not it doesn’t work like that. You’ll need to know the specs for the radio vs speaker impedance so you get them matched.
So it won’t take the 45 watts from each and send 90? Not looking for a loud system just one u can hear. I have an amp.
i will try just radio first to see if it’s ok. I already put better but not great rear speakers in. ( looks stock from the top)
If you run two speakers in series, it doubles the ohms. If you run them in parallel, is halfs the ohms. Depending on the ohms of the speakers, you increase your volume or overwork of your head unit or amp. But connecting to outputs to the same workload/speakers doubles the amperage and could damage the head unit. It may not be immediate, but overtime it could/would burn out the transistors within the head unit.
its a virus or a disease or something... I had it bad!
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If your ohm spec for the rear speakers matches the ohm spec of head unit and the rear speakers are a quality speaker....45 watts is quite loud. I have JBL 6x9 under pantry tray and my volume can be VERY loud if desired (read you have to yell at each other to talk in car)
Sure adding an Amp will make even more volume...but your speakers need to be able to handle that
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Thinking about you wanting to use all 4 channels off of the radio is it "may" be possible BUT it will require a particular design of a speakers wiring setup.
I dug out some older Polk Audio 6x9 speakers that have a woofer, midrange, and a tweeter.
On the bottom side the factory has a smaller male terminal that would connect to a radio channels negative output and a larger male terminal that would connect to a radio channels positive output.
These two connections allowed 3 speakers to work off of one channel BUT how the wiring and design was done is it is possible that one could wire the woofer to an amplifiers channel and then the midrange and tweeter to another channel of an amplifier and the wiring would be kept separate.
This is how the terminals and connections are on this speaker:
This is with things labeled:
And then after modifying some connections, you could have this one speaker running off of the radio's left front and rear outputs:
In the above pictures and the design of the speaker is there is a passive signal blocking coil (labeled F) and this allows the woofer section of the speaker to only reproduce lower bass sounds as well as up to some midrange frequencies.
What is NOT shown and needs to be in place to prevent damage to the midrange and tweeter is a passive filter that blocks lows from getting into the midrange and tweeter speakers.
Jim
1967 rs 327/275 th350 12 bolt posi PS Power Disc Brakes Deluxe w fold down rear seat Tinted Glass
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It's great to hear reading this thread that a few of the helpful contributors have their rear speakers mounted UNDER the parcel shelf!
makes me cringe looking through the rear window and seeing modern 6X9 speakers on display
(no offence to those who have modern 6X9 speakers showing )
makes me cringe looking through the rear window and seeing modern 6X9 speakers on display
(no offence to those who have modern 6X9 speakers showing )
All this info greatly appreciated. I did wire in the amp in the trunk. I already had it. I mounted it behind back seat partition. Now I am ordering the tar matt stuff for under the carpet.
Anyone have opinion on running a thick(sort of) wire from battery to drivers fender well somewhere to do a junction block. Running too many wires to the battery. Looks terrible. Thinking junction block maybe firewall or fender well near master cylinder. Wired neatly, of course. I even thought of putting a big hot wire under dash. I would fuse it so if ever shorted it pops. 30 amps should do several items like fuel pump, amp,
Then there’s the electric fan that needs 30.
Good spot to put a junction box?? Ideas?
Anyone have opinion on running a thick(sort of) wire from battery to drivers fender well somewhere to do a junction block. Running too many wires to the battery. Looks terrible. Thinking junction block maybe firewall or fender well near master cylinder. Wired neatly, of course. I even thought of putting a big hot wire under dash. I would fuse it so if ever shorted it pops. 30 amps should do several items like fuel pump, amp,
Then there’s the electric fan that needs 30.
Good spot to put a junction box?? Ideas?
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Do an internet search for "fused distribution block" and there are a variety of them out there that use different style fuses and have few or many outputs.
If you are running a new power wire from the battery on one side of the car to the other, think about adding a main fuse on that cable as close as you can to the battery and size it to the wire gauge.
In your search for things, also do a search for "fused distribution block with relay" and there are styles there too that might fit your needs currently and possibly for future upgrades.
Also be aware that even though some blocks have spaces for let's say six 30A fuses, the instructions may limit the amount to a total of 100A so in other words you could run three 30A fuses but then the other remaining 4 spots need to be less.
Jim
Thx, it’s what I was thinking. Running a second but smaller battery cable to inside of car. I would fuse it a foot from battery in case a big short. Then I can hook up the extra wires I alway tap into original fuse box. I have a few like 12 gauge coming from inside up to battery, I want run one thin battery cable maybe 60 amp into car then run off that. I use relays too. I can turn them on from acc off key.
if I needed a 60 or 80 amp fuse ar battery just in case, would that be such a high amp that it does serious damage before it pops the fuse? The 20 amp stuff won’t set car on fire it just blows. Would an 80 just blow or would it melt the cable?
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Fuses are put in place to protect the wire. If a wire gauge is setup to pass 10A, then it can pass 10A all day long and there should be no issues.
A 10A wire can have a 40A fuse put on it and now if the demands are 40A, the fuse will not blow BUT the wire will have issues trying to pass this amount of current.
To get an idea of how things should be done is off of the battery positive post you have let's say a large 4 gauge wire that goes down to the starter. This wire is designed to handle 200A so I would put a 200A fuse on that cable as close as I could to the battery positive post. Now if a short were to occur on this wire past the fuse, the fuse would blow and no damage to the wire would occur.
If now we added a 10 gauge wire to the starter that this terminal shares with the 200A fused cable from the battery, we need to install a 40A fuse on the 10 gauge wire as close as I can to the starter. Now if a short occurs on this 10 gauge wire past the 40A fuse, the fuse would blow BUT if we did not have this 40A fuse, then the short would be trying to blow the 200A fuse and since the 10 gauge wire was not designed to handle 200A, the wire will be damaged. Now on a direct short you may not have issues like this but if the 10A wire were to become overloaded and asked to pass 150A, then it will have issues and the wire and its insulation becoming damaged.
If on your setup you were to run an 8 gauge wire from the battery on the passenger side over to a junction stud on the drivers side, I would put on a 60A fuse on the 8 gauge by the battery.
Now if I were to run additional wires off of this junction stud and the wires were smaller than an 8 gauge, each wire would need to proper sized fuse on it at the junction stud. If I put on a 12 gauge wire, then maybe run a 20A fuse on it and if I added an 18 gauge wire, then put in a 10A fuse.
I came across his video a while back and maybe this can shed some light on fuses and wire gauge.
Jim
A 10A wire can have a 40A fuse put on it and now if the demands are 40A, the fuse will not blow BUT the wire will have issues trying to pass this amount of current.
To get an idea of how things should be done is off of the battery positive post you have let's say a large 4 gauge wire that goes down to the starter. This wire is designed to handle 200A so I would put a 200A fuse on that cable as close as I could to the battery positive post. Now if a short were to occur on this wire past the fuse, the fuse would blow and no damage to the wire would occur.
If now we added a 10 gauge wire to the starter that this terminal shares with the 200A fused cable from the battery, we need to install a 40A fuse on the 10 gauge wire as close as I can to the starter. Now if a short occurs on this 10 gauge wire past the 40A fuse, the fuse would blow BUT if we did not have this 40A fuse, then the short would be trying to blow the 200A fuse and since the 10 gauge wire was not designed to handle 200A, the wire will be damaged. Now on a direct short you may not have issues like this but if the 10A wire were to become overloaded and asked to pass 150A, then it will have issues and the wire and its insulation becoming damaged.
If on your setup you were to run an 8 gauge wire from the battery on the passenger side over to a junction stud on the drivers side, I would put on a 60A fuse on the 8 gauge by the battery.
Now if I were to run additional wires off of this junction stud and the wires were smaller than an 8 gauge, each wire would need to proper sized fuse on it at the junction stud. If I put on a 12 gauge wire, then maybe run a 20A fuse on it and if I added an 18 gauge wire, then put in a 10A fuse.
I came across his video a while back and maybe this can shed some light on fuses and wire gauge.
Jim
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