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robsutt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So what is the scoop with the quality of repo body pieces such as from DII? Had a guy tell me their fit can be off by 1/8 inch for fenders. With computer driven CAD software to get measurements right I can't believe they would be bad products measurement wise. I've see some in eBay made in China and there no way I'm putting that in my car. But what about DII or others?

For reference I need to get radiator support, both front inners, door skins, and some floor and truck patches.
 
1/8" is pretty dang good fit.

I've had great parts from Goodmark, AMD and China. My Chinese parts in some cases were the best fitting parts.
 
Have you done a search? This has been covered about a million times.
Thank YOU! :thumbsup: I thought it was only me feeling this way. This has been brought up at least ten times in the last four days. Why have the search function if nobody uses it?
 
I ask myself the same question about aft. Part fitment. I have had pretty good luck with amd sheetmetal but none of them are perfect. All will need some sort of modification. As other have said do a search in the search engine and you will find alot of info on aft. Sheetmetal.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thank YOU! :thumbsup: I thought it was only me feeling this way. This has been brought up at least ten times in the last four days. Why have the search function if nobody uses it?
Sorry for asking. I'm learning. Guess there's not much room for that here. Wow
 
So what is the scoop with the quality of repo body pieces such as from DII? Had a guy tell me their fit can be off by 1/8 inch for fenders
And how does he know that after 40 odd yrs his body has never been hit been in an accident some stage in its life?
1/8" ??? theres more than that in the stock factory bolt on panels mounting SLOTS.
And lets not forget the factory shims
Oh and throw in leading on doors and jambs.

Add to that things like wheel arch rim front/rear window... these are shaped to the chrome before painting.. again lead in original panels can be found in these cnrs

And note on things like chassis mount and caged bolts the allowable movement to line things up...

Even on modern cars today, replace panels, when no customers are around the block of 4x2 comes out to twist into shape for correct fit... ans still happens to be best practice.

I do think that THESE days many of the criticisms are not warranted... and many home restorers expect a brand new mechano set to bolt straight up
 
The sad part is people choose to make remarks about the search function, rather than just skipping over the post, and not replying. I have encountered this several times on here, makes me laugh every time. Sometimes although the information is out there, people want to know what the very current opinion is. If the answer here is to always check the search, might as well make the forum non existent, as everything, and i mean everything, at this point in this sites age, has been covered. If not covered here, than certainly at CRG. It seems as though if someone asks a question that has been answered before, said person has ultimately ruined someone's day. Being that the OP is new, they probably have not seen a post covered about this topic. Yes, search could have been used, but when i want to know something, i don't go pick up an encyclopedia, i talk to "experts". As for the OP, quality is all a matter of perspective. If you are building a show car, nothing is quality. You are going to have to tweak everything. If the materials made can yield 1/8th to 1/4th gaps without modification, than that is a pretty good product for a street car.
 
It is a difficult answer because even NOS panels have been known to have issues, panels on the assembly lines were rejected for fit.
Think of it this way...
A panel is only going to be as good as it's dies.
When a reproduction panel is manufactured using dies created from a NOS piece stamped late in the original die life you get tolerances on top of tolerances.
Fenders had the crown fixture set and the fender drops were welded at the assembly plants, with the supplied fenders they were averaged I believe.

IT is why we (who have hung panels, know the cars ,and do bodywork) state that assembly line panels should always be utilized if they are with-in your budget.

Original masters would need to be used for new dies in order to get the closest match.

I sold aftermarket sheetmetal (New Cars) the suppliers we used took 3 production line cars with great fit and finish, stripped all the panels bare, and laser mapped the 3 then averaged the 3 for their dies.
 
I think the word your looking for is 'tolerance'. Some here don't mind repeating, but some do. No worries. The search feature is pretty decent though.
While most topics have been covered and can be rediscovered with the search function there is nothing wrong with asking the question again.

Often someone will have recent experience that is beneficial.

If you see a post that you feel has been covered and have nothing positive to contribute then just move on.
 
For all the parts you are asking about yes, Dynacorn or "Dii" is a good choice. I have used Dynacorn for all the parts you have mentioned , except the door skins. No one makes direct bolt on fenders, they all need work. I was going to ask about door skins that people have used in the past few months as well. Yes the search does get you info, but it is not always current on what is running off the line now. Things may have gotten better, or gotten worse. So the question is not always to just check the search. Cut him some slack, did yall look to see how many post he has made? not many , maybe this is his first restore. dam John I guess I really type slow.
 
And things change rapidly....as do people's opinions as the newer "improved" products are released.....I turned to this post for that very reason to see IF anything has changed recently....
 
Yep agree on comments re search.. Im one who often refers someone to use the search for more info....
on the other hand,
from memory, the opinion that when doing panel work no matter where parts are sourced the is always some nursing into place has never been quite as strong as here
Also the technology in reproducing parts has changed dramatically in the last few yrs.
its not like decades ago when we would cut new panels and mod to fit correctly.

Althu the criticism maybe generally valid, in this case its not.
 
Rob, There is nothing wrong with asking anything about an area you are researching. Do also use the search function as quite often there are a lot of replies to similar previously asked questions. One thing I would suggest is look for replies from the professionals or those that have worked with or replaced the pieces in question more than once. Many of us here have rebuilt only 1 car or commonly are in the process of rebuilding their first car. A little more direct to your questions, I replaced my radiator support with AMD. Very nice piece and measured the same as original. I used a passenger side front floor patch panel from CarsInc.com. Nice panel but the drain plug was punched from the wrong side. Front inner fenders I used OER brand. Took a lot of stretching but they worked. I have never done a door skin so I can't help you there. The general consensus is go GM where possible. I didn't realize that when I started my car and ended up changing some to GM. Good luck.
 
I also need to replace some front sheet metal so have been following the recent threads. There was a (numerous) discussion (s) on the core support and weight. My question is why is this so important? Does it have to do with front flexing or is it just the old adage heavier is better, thicker steel and all. I was leaning towards the AMD core support more for fitment, do I really need to worry about weight? ( I confess, I did not search for this exact question, just "Core support").:D

Thanks, Dave
 
The sad part is people choose to make remarks about the search function, rather than just skipping over the post, and not replying. I have encountered this several times on here, makes me laugh every time. Sometimes although the information is out there, people want to know what the very current opinion is. If the answer here is to always check the search, might as well make the forum non existent, as everything, and i mean everything, at this point in this sites age, has been covered. If not covered here, than certainly at CRG. It seems as though if someone asks a question that has been answered before, said person has ultimately ruined someone's day. Being that the OP is new, they probably have not seen a post covered about this topic. Yes, search could have been used, but when i want to know something, i don't go pick up an encyclopedia, i talk to "experts". As for the OP, quality is all a matter of perspective. If you are building a show car, nothing is quality. You are going to have to tweak everything. If the materials made can yield 1/8th to 1/4th gaps without modification, than that is a pretty good product for a street car.
This sums up the entire search question...thanks for posting your thoughts!..I will search but I will also ask, what may seem obvious, questions during this project...
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Feel free to PM any questions you may have about your project. I have built over 15 of these cars in the past 8 years, and while i am not as versed in the "this stamp goes here" type of information, what i do know is how to make stuff fit. I rarely have a customer that wants a show stopper 100 pt type of car, so i don't bother to follow every little detail. My customers all want old style with new luxuries. I enjoy helping people when i can, and won't answer questions that i am not sure about. I answer what i know. :yes:
 
Wow that picture brings back memories....been there done that got the car to prove it! Take your time as it looks like you know your in it for the long haul and the finished product will reflect that.

This sums up the entire search question...thanks for posting your thoughts!..I will search but I will also ask, what may seem obvious, questions during this project...
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