[ridesdirt]

I did some searches on this, and looked in the stickies, but didn't find a simple answer.

Situation is this: when using a single wire alternator most are very simple. Run one heavy gauge cable from the alternator to the battery. A second exciter wire to turn "on" the alternator, a wire run to a switched 12 volt source on the existing wiring. The exciter or "on" wire to the alternator pulls very low amps and can pretty much hook anywhere there is a switched source for 12 volts. Easy.

Question is, when doing this does the factory external regulator need to be bypassed?
I know there is a easy way to make your own jumper, or the aftermarket has a plug in jumper.

I will confirm with my alternator mfg, but appears all 1 wire alternators are internally regulated. Issue is not addressed in the install instructions.

For my particular installation, I will not be using any factory amp gauge or idiot light, so those circuits are not needed. I know the factory gauge and idiot light circuits are tied into the factory external regulator.

May be a stupid question and show my ignorance to the charging system, but my common sense is telling me to bypass all the factory charging system, the 1 wire should be stand alone.

 

[Everett#2390]

OE regulator is removed and its plug is wired by having the two inside wires connected to each other and the two outside wires connected to each other - the same function the retail adapter does, as you wrote.

 

[ridesdirt]

10-4 @Everett#2390

I thought so, just did not find a clear answer online to the question.

This is a good thing for me, cleans up the radiator support a little more!

 

[Worn Out Welder]

I ran a single wire for years, but the guy that owned the starter/alternator shop used an internal regulator that was intended for tractors since they were charging at a much lower rpm….if I remember what he told was correct.
I do remember some people having issues and I think that was the root of those issues…low rpm and low voltage issues.
just something to consider.

 

[ridesdirt]

Those were my concerns with going to 1 wire. This is part of the Vintage Air system, so the parts are designed or chosen to work for the application. After reading a lot of reviews for the Gen 5 system I felt pretty good about it.

The alternator came with this tag on it, so it looks like it has plenty of power, even at idle.
It is a Mechman alternator, they have a good reputation.

 

[Worn Out Welder]

That’s excellent….. I guess things have improved since the 1900s 😜.

 

[djh617]

Wow! 141 amps at 800 rpm! I think you're set.

 

[SOA-Nova]

I did some searches on this, and looked in the stickies, but didn't find a simple answer.

Situation is this: when using a single wire alternator most are very simple. Run one heavy gauge cable from the alternator to the battery. A second exciter wire to turn "on" the alternator, a wire run to a switched 12 volt source on the existing wiring. The exciter or "on" wire to the alternator pulls very low amps and can pretty much hook anywhere there is a switched source for 12 volts. Easy.


I will confirm with my alternator mfg, but appears all 1 wire alternators are internally regulated. Issue is not addressed in the install instructions.

My view is that a 1 wire alternator is just that, one wire from the output post to the battery.

Google Search

In your question you bring up a second wire, then to me what you have may not be a true one wire alternator BUT may have provisions for wiring in a charge indicator light or who knows what as the manufacturer could have built it many different ways.

I will say watch out with what you are doing and the related wiring.

Even though the alternator you have is capable of outputting 181A, the car may never need it BUT size the wire properly for that amperage and the length of the cable. Also too if you are still running the factory wire between the battery and horn relay bus and then want to add on more electrical demands at the horn bus, this wire may need to be upgraded.

You just have to lay all of this out and do it properly.

Also like you stated, check with the manufacturer as they should know the best and proper way to wire and use their product.

One thing I would love to see other manufacturers do, is add in at what case temperature the alternator was at when it produced the output. Cold alternators put out differently than ones under the hood in a 200 degree environment.

Jim

 

[Worn Out Welder]

Good points 👍🏼

 

[SoCal805]

IMHO, 3 wire and external solid state regulator for these cars

 

[ridesdirt]

I did not get a chance to call VA or Mechman today.

This alternator has an "exciter" wire (a second small 14 or 16 gauge wire that connects to a +on source). This wire "starts" or "turns on" the alternator electronically, so it will generate power. I true one wire alternator has to spin up before it begins to generate power (at least this is what I have found on most true one wire alternators).

The alternator is a component of the Vintage Air Front Runner accessory drive system. The Holley Mid-Mount kit looks to use the same (or same type) alternator. Holley kit looks to use the same power steering pump also.

A 3 wire setup would have been great, but none of the drive systems I liked use them.

 

[ridesdirt]

Talked to VA and Mechman today. Confirmed, internally regulated alternator, no need for any of the factory charging circuit.