1967 Camaro Covet - got 2 yrs ago - has an external solenoid like found on Ford Trucks-. Issue is im getting NO POWER to the key switch at all- no radio , no turn signals , nothing when i turn the key no radio, wipers , ignition etc WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY not even a click nothing- checked all glass fuses on OEM fuse box none are blown - aslo checked the inline fuse by the horn relay the 30 amp fuse isnt blown-- I checked for power under the dash at the fuse box BUT only the "BTM 2 light up",,, NOT sure that means anything until the key switch is turned as my other camaro has fuses that arent hot either until the ignition circut is opened at the key switch? -
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The stuff that does work isnt tied into the "ignition key switch" like the "powered convert top", the hazards lights the front and rear lights tail lights and brake lights and the horn blows strong and the flashers work and the center console light and instrument cluster light inside does illininate but the lights arent tied in to the ignition switch that has no power as if all aux items starter and solenoid and switch arent getting power.

At the Battery on the passenger side I see a circuit breaker (that appears to be for the Vintage air possibly & this after market external solenoid ? Car was running ON after driving it 40 miles- and than we plugged in a cell charger at the "cig lighter" which Instantly shut the the engine and all power to the ignition switch key radio etc .. None of the glass fuses are blown & the car has the original wire harness-- BUT does have halogen after market wiring for the front lights only ..

Not sure what to check ; I replaced the key switch after getting the tumbler out ; UNTIL i have the issue resolved there is no since putting the key back in to the new switch which only plugs in 1 way with the plastic tabs through it off the wire harness ...

On the external solenoid attached by the battery at the firewall there is a black wire on the side that when i run a jumper from the battery to it the engine rotates strong but no power is going to the key switch for some reason. Im frustrated and know this has to be something a blown fuse a bad horn relay a bad external solenoid NOT sure if that send power to the key switch?

Lastly I was trying to have it towed to a shop this past Monday after pushing it onto the street out the garage BUT The TRIPPLE AAA arrived and said they couldnt load it onto their flat truck because the front spoiler is on the car ? Others have told me that is nonsense and the driver must not have known wth he was doing? The car is sitting on 20s doesnt seem that low as i can get underneath it .. Not sure what to check...

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An obvious issues I see:
Your battery ground wire is about 1/2 the size it should be. It should also be connected to the engine block/alternator. Your pictures don’t show much detail.

 

I would continue to hone in on that Ford solenoid by the battery and the black wire you mention by the firewall. I think you have a short in that circuit and power is not getting to the ignition switch. If you don’t have headers, I’d remove the Ford solenoid and redo wiring from battery to starter and then test for power at ignition switch.

It appears you have a relay right by the battery (passenger side of the Ford starter relay) that should be mounted to radiator core support. I’d fix that too since it may need to be ground.

I’d definitely replace that negative battery cable, as mentioned, and run it to the engine block. Also clean up the wiring between battery and horn relay in general and remove that Vintage Air or whatever stuff.

 

I would continue to hone in on that Ford solenoid by the battery and the black wire you mention by the firewall. I think you have a short in that circuit and power is not getting to the ignition switch. If you don’t have headers, I’d remove the Ford solenoid and redo wiring from battery to starter and then test for power at ignition switch.

It appears you have a relay right by the battery (passenger side of the Ford starter relay) that should be mounted to radiator core support. I’d fix that too since it may need to be ground.

I’d definitely replace that negative battery cable, as mentioned, and run it to the engine block. Also clean up the wiring between battery and horn relay in general and remove that Vintage Air or whatever stuff.
The car has headers ; its very hard to full with the starter tight fit -- --The external solenoid could be faulty ? Not sure you can buy an electrical part than return it to Napa, never tried it before if it isnt the culprit; i know nothing about external solenoids if it can cut the circut causing the power issue? thx for the reply

 

im frustrated FairFaxx -- the car ran fine since i got it 2 yrs ago-- understand parts go out .. im trying to hone in on which parts to check .. the solenoid is grounded to the block and to the battery and to the fender ; See the very 1st picture the negative cable is properly thick and does go down to the engine block ;; you are looking at the thin wire attached to the same cable going to the right not sure why you are commenting on the cable being 1/2 the size or not going to the block ..i have power just not to the key switch; the car ran fine other items like the top etc work great.. need power to gett o teh key switch ..

 

1967 Camaro Covet - got 2 yrs ago - has an external solenoid like found on Ford Trucks-. Issue is im getting NO POWER to the key switch at all- no radio , no turn signals , nothing when i turn the key no radio, wipers , ignition etc WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY not even a click nothing- checked all glass fuses on OEM fuse box none are blown - aslo checked the inline fuse by the horn relay the 30 amp fuse isnt blown-- I checked for power under the dash at the fuse box BUT only the "BTM 2 light up",,, NOT sure that means anything until the key switch is turned as my other camaro has fuses that arent hot either until the ignition circut is opened at the key switch? -
...
The stuff that does work isnt tied into the "ignition key switch" like the "powered convert top", the hazards lights the front and rear lights tail lights and brake lights and the horn blows strong and the flashers work and the center console light and instrument cluster light inside does illininate but the lights arent tied in to the ignition switch that has no power as if all aux items starter and solenoid and switch arent getting power.

At the Battery on the passenger side I see a circuit breaker (that appears to be for the Vintage air possibly & this after market external solenoid ? Car was running ON after driving it 40 miles- and than we plugged in a cell charger at the "cig lighter" which Instantly shut the the engine and all power to the ignition switch key radio etc .. None of the glass fuses are blown & the car has the original wire harness-- BUT does have halogen after market wiring for the front lights only ..

Not sure what to check ; I replaced the key switch after getting the tumbler out ; UNTIL i have the issue resolved there is no since putting the key back in to the new switch which only plugs in 1 way with the plastic tabs through it off the wire harness ...

On the external solenoid attached by the battery at the firewall there is a black wire on the side that when i run a jumper from the battery to it the engine rotates strong but no power is going to the key switch for some reason. Im frustrated and know this has to be something a blown fuse a bad horn relay a bad external solenoid NOT sure if that send power to the key switch?

Not sure what to check...

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Get a voltmeter or test light and start off seeing if you have power right across the round battery posts.

Now move one end of the test light or meter to the cheap battery terminals and see if you have power there.

If you do keep moving further and further away from the battery and you will get to a point where there is no power.

Personally, get some decent battery terminals that do not clamp onto a bare wire end. Put a good crimped on terminal end on the wire end providing it is a fresh and clean wire and then maybe thing about soldering the connection after making a solid crimp.

You can look all day long and not "see" poor or bad connections and this is why you need some test equipment like a volt/ohm meter or a properly used test light. Just like wondering while one has a head gasket issue, not using a torque wrench can be an issue.

Jim

 

Get a voltmeter or test light and start off seeing if you have power right across the round battery posts.

Now move one end of the test light or meter to the cheap battery terminals and see if you have power there.

If you do keep moving further and further away from the battery and you will get to a point where there is no power.

Personally, get some decent battery terminals that do not clamp onto a bare wire end. Put a good crimped on terminal end on the wire end providing it is a fresh and clean wire and then maybe thing about soldering the connection after making a solid crimp.

You can look all day long and not "see" poor or bad connections and this is why you need some test equipment like a volt/ohm meter or a properly used test light. Just like wondering while one has a head gasket issue, not using a torque wrench can be an issue.

power is going to the fuse box so thats rulled out as the lights the top that connects right at the terminal all work the car isnt completely out of power just at the key switch ; has to branch off some where thanks.. rulling each thing out 1 by 1 ..

 

I would go through every exposed connection removing the connected wire(s) one at a time and clean each terminal as you go. Not just look at it, but actually wire brush the ring or fork terminals and stud terminals. Then reassemble that area and continue on. Insure all crimped terminals are clean and tight. You can see there is corrosion under the negative strap on the battery terminal. On the left side there is a smaller red wire that also shows black. Is that a burnt wire or maybe just paint overspray. That same wire shows the terminal insulation connected at the solenoid is not totally covering the wire. If after all of that inspection and cleaning is done follow Jim's suggestion of starting at the battery and testing for voltage following each wire. It only takes time and little patience.

 

no that wire has some over spray not burnt --power is going all the way to the fuse box after checking inside just nothing to the switch this all branches off something its 2 plugs thru the firewall 1 side is appears to come of fthe horn relay the other off the external solenoid ; frustrating but that is at least checked off the list that wire connects at the radiator support and is hot ..

 

Apologies on the neg battery cable, I see it now. Check power at the solenoid going in and out. Those solenoids are cheap if it’s bad.

 

please note , just did a read at the battery it is fully charged the car has a very heavy German made fabric top -- the car has power at the battery terminals they are not as coroded as the blurry pics i think folks saw-- In regards to the solenoid on the back of it facing the battery is a long thick black cable that is mouted to the block along with the ac compressor bracket the alternator is on the drivers side opposite side - it is a 1 wire alt charges up closer to 13.4 or so running ; on the right side are 2 terminals wit that black wire that does rotate the engine only when running a LOSE SPARE wire by itself from the top + terminal postt o it than the car carnks strong , when using atest light tyat balck wire doesnt light up and either of course the negative wire attached to the block the 3 red leads on the other terminal top left are all hot with test light .... also it could be an in line fuse wire that goes to the starter ; the car has headers tight fit .... the solenopid is like 30 bucks etc it isnt the money it sthe time and frustration that is getting to me as it could be this or that and which a long list of culprits. ACE mechanics are great at replacing bolts chasing parts but most are not electricians...
.

 

Is it possible that your Neutral Safety Switch is activated? On mine I have to have the clutch ALL the way in or nothing will happen - no turn of the starter or anything. Since you have an auto, maybe your shift lever is not all the way in "Park"? Try taking it out of park, or push up on it. Try starting it in neutral. See if any particular movement of the shift lever will get it to start.
Brett 🚀 🚀 🚀 🚀 🚀

 

The 67/8 cars don't have a N/S/Switch.

 

I would start probing the the fuse box starting with the BAT tab in the middle, then turn the key on and test ignition, then move to hot side of fuses with the key on until you find something that isn't hot when it should be. If the BAT tab isn't hot I think you have a power between it and the horn relay or at the horn relay. Your horn works so you are getting power to the relay from the battery.

 

does the car start now if you don't have cell charger plugged in?

if not, you could have killed a fusible link if wiring to cig lighter shorted.

Your wiring has been "altered"....so you will need to confirm every connection point, as mentioned, (read physically check not just look at) is correct

 

My 67 auto, console shift, had it for the PG and my TH350 using the Shiftworks kit included one for the TH350 also. Car will only start in P or N. The mounting holes are "slotted" to you can clock it to match the shifter Detent plate.

 

My 67 auto, console shift, had it for the PG and my TH350 using the Shiftworks kit included one for the TH350 also. Car will only start in P or N. The mounting holes are "slotted" to you can clock it to match the shifter Detent plate.

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NO Power is going to the switch at all ;but the fuse block is working ; the radio would still come on the N saftey switch wouldnt shut off all aux wipers radio i dont think .. but the neutral safty switch is on my oem column -- my issue is no power is going to the key switch at all nothing .. beyond just trying to start it please note ;

 

..

 

Curious why you aren't following my suggestion to start at the fuse box with a test light or volt meter and start testing? I doubt there's anything wrong with the fuse box. It's probably a very simple fix, you don't need a new harness.

 

the fuse box is getting power ; after all night & day thinking about the solenoid now that i recall when the car instantly died the horn would only click a few times not blow at all ; when i got it back into the garage it started blowing again fooling around at the horn relay; A shop redid the steering wheel back in may and replaced the horn relay new .. it has an inline fuse that isnt blown .. but what feed off the horn relay if its bad anything else besides just the horn?

 

Fusible link. From the relay (horn) to the fuse panel (under dash).

If there is no power at any of the fuses, such as the one marked BAT, its the fusible link.

 

yes there is constant power at BAT as the powered top is connected to it ; the fuse block has power ; yes seevral items do work just no power at key switch please see the other posts ; the BAT is always hot those 2 btm fuses are hot the rest only cut on at the key switch ; the top has a switch the lights etc they feed or branch off the horn thanks please see pic of fuse box posted thanks but this isnt the culprit ..

 

if not, you could have killed a fusible link if wiring to cig lighter shorted.

Fusible link. From the relay (horn) to the fuse panel (under dash).

If there is no power at any of the fuses, such as the one marked BAT, its the fusible link.

Yeah I mentioned that also...but OP has not replied if he checked. Fuseable link is easily replaced

 

hmm the horn relay i replaced 6 mos ago new at a shop as the horn wasnt blowing etc -- does that feed into and branch off to differnt parts of the harness at the switches supplying power or is it just for the horn only? it has a fuse-link - the fuse isnt blown .. when the car first shut right at the cig lighter plugging in the cell usb-c charger for my Note 9 cell phone ; the horn also stopped blowing and would only click ; i pushed it into the garage and tapped on it etc and than it started blowing very loud so havent given it must thought as it looks brand new but that means little if it took a surge and that is the culprit ? I just tested the 2 terminals on the horn relay at the 2 prongs the 1 fuse link orange isnt contant hot with the test light the other side terminal post is?

 

The Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) has a wiring diagram. The Service Manual also has one. Not the best wiring diagram but freely available. Here is a link where you can get some of the manuals.

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9433.0

Note that some of the original electrical options have separate add-on wiring harness that plug into spare spade terminals in the fuse panel. One that is not familiar with 60's wiring might incorrectly identify these as "jumpers" when they are actually part of the original electrical system to connect some option. For example, the console clock option has a separate 3 wire harness that plugs in the BAT spare and LAMP spare spade terminals for power and lighting (third wire is for ground). Some pictures would help to identify this "jumper".

In the original harness, the main power for the cockpit comes in from the horn relay (through a fusible link) via a red wire through the firewall connector. This feeds a junction under the dash that splits into 3 other feeds; Fuse Panel, Ignition Switch and Headlight Switch. Note that in the original wiring all of these feeds are protected by the fusible link at the horn relay. It is important to identify modifications to the original wiring so as to not chase down paths that are no longer there etc.

Also, I suggest you look up under the dash and check to make sure there are no additional inline fuses added by a previous owner.

 

thank you checking the horn relay with test light and volt meter .. on the horn relay looks new but means little i think it also went out than started clicking when i pushed it from driveway into garage than it started blowing again just fine after tapping on it, will post up pictures of it ..

 

There are 3 tabs in the middle of fuse box with the initials BAT, IGN, ACCY . There are no fuses associated with them, they are for spade connectors. BAT should be hot all the time. IGN should be hot with the key turned to the on position. ACCY should be hot when the key is turned to the ACCY position.

 

67 OEM has 7 fuses ; i have to agree with others here no matter how frustrated i am the fuse box is fine. The 2 btm fuses are hot with test light constantly , all break lights instrument cluster lights up the shifter light bulb lights up hazards brake light headlights tail lights work ; the fuse box is getting power -- my cranium hurts havent slept cant think racing thoughts checkin everything BUT maybe that dang horn relay is bad either that or the external solenoid but yes ok the very fact i have lights and the top runnimg right off that terminal shows the batt is constant hot ; the issue isnt what the key position does in each position that is a google search the issue is finding the culpirt to which circut or relay i think thanks for the reply

 

*** there is no inline fuse link on the starter at all.so thats rulled out as the starter takes all the power off the external solenoid which is after market not even oem for the car .like off a ford truck.. all the power the starter is gets comes off it ?? it does rotate the starter cranking when running a hot jumper lead to the side black wire that goes around the engine thru the firewall so that is prob the ignition wire? but maybe not the main lead ?

 

What kind of voltage are you getting on the fuses that show power (9V, 10V, 11V or what) ?.

Does this voltage on those fuses go away or drop real bad when the ignition is turned to the run position and other key positions. If it does drop, what does the voltage go down to ?.

What voltage are you getting at the ignition switch on the red 12 gauge wire ?.

What voltages are you getting out of the ignition switch in the different key positions (accessory, run, and then crank) ?.

If you took out the ignition switch and just replaced the tumbler portion using a paper clip, the tumblers are not part of the electrical system. The tumblers just rotate the other part of the switch that then makes or breaks connections.

If you take the wire connector off of the back of the ignition switch you can jumper the red wire to the pink and see if some systems come on and then you can then try connecting the red wire to the purple wire and this should activate the starter solenoid and then try jumping the red wire to the brown wire to get other systems to come on.

Jim

 

What kind of voltage are you getting on the fuses that show power (9V, 10V, 11V or what) ?.

Does this voltage on those fuses go away or drop real bad when the ignition is turned to the run position and other key positions. If it does drop, what does the voltage go down to ?.

What voltage are you getting at the ignition switch on the red 12 gauge wire ?.

What voltages are you getting out of the ignition switch in the different key positions (accessory, run, and then crank) ?.

If you took out the ignition switch and just replaced the tumbler portion using a paper clip, the tumblers are not part of the electrical system. The tumblers just rotate the other part of the switch that then makes or breaks connections.

If you take the wire connector off of the back of the ignition switch you can jumper the red wire to the pink and see if some systems come on and then you can then try connecting the red wire to the purple wire and this should activate the starter solenoid and then try jumping the red wire to the brown wire to get other systems to come on.

Jim

hmm i replaced the switch -- i just took the tumbler out to get it to and left the paper clip in it and put it aside in the console ... as a flat nose turns the switch ... later when i find out what the heck is wrong it will go back in when done very last step i agree it has nothing to do with the power issue -; I have the OEM harness which all the wires are fed thru the "plug" that plugs onto the back of the ign switch ignition switch. .. I replaced it with a duralast auto zone ign switch and nothing (maybe i got a bad duralast part) but when testing the red wire port on the back of the switch im not getting power but is that 1 wire constantkly hot at the plug or does it feed off the switch ; i think the plug grounds out with the wires and only engages when the switch open the circut -- not sure you can just shove a probe thru the 1 wire and get hot power ,,, power is going to the fuse box thats been rules out - i used a test light on the fuses but 5 of them dont light up and will not until the ignition switch opens their circuts for the aux radio wipers and such .. i have power at fuse box- that was ruled out reading these replies.. i want to bypass the plug but all the wires are encased in the plug maybe get 4 long wires shove them into each prong of the plug after unplugging it of fthe back let it dangle than maybe screw on the wire on a dangkling switch and for the power run a jumper off the fuse box just to see if the plug or the switch is the culprit .. since the power to the switch light switch and horn relay comes of fthe horn relay into the harness into the firewall than branches off, with the lights working and other studd the issue may be in the plug or after all this moose crap i still have just another bad switch .. not sure

 

I'd check the fusible links as SoCal805 suggested.

 

yes checked; that it is good ;

 

terminals on both sides are pushing 12.57 the inline fuse i took th fuse out it has power the fuse is good; there is a 3rd plug in wiore green that isnt on a terminal post but they all come off the horn relay and go into the harness to the firewall ; the fuse block has power ; the fusbale link can be ruled out checked off the list ....

 

As I mentioned, in the original wiring, the power comes into the cockpit through the firewall connector and then to a junction splice under the dash. I believe this splice is in the harness? but I am not sure. The junction splice then feeds 3 separate destinations; Fuse Panel, Headlight Switch and Ignition Switch.

If I read your responses correctly you have power from horn relay bus to fuse panel BAT terminal etc. So power is getting through the firewall connector to the junction splice under the dash and also from that junction to the fuse panel.

The headlights work so the path from the junction splice to the headlight switch is also OK.

But there is no power on the RED wire to the back of the ignition switch. The wire from the junction splice to the ignition switch may be open.

I do not know exactly where that splice is located. I believe it is behind the instrument panel in the Dash Main Harness.

 

As I mentioned, in the original wiring, the power comes into the cockpit through the firewall connector and then to a junction splice under the dash. I believe this splice is in the harness? but I am not sure. The junction splice then feeds 3 separate destinations; Fuse Panel, Headlight Switch and Ignition Switch.

If I read your responses correctly you have power from horn relay bus to fuse panel BAT terminal etc. So power is getting through the firewall connector to the junction splice under the dash and also from that junction to the fuse panel.

The headlights work so the path from the junction splice to the headlight switch is also OK.

But there is no power on the RED wire to the back of the ignition switch. The wire from the junction splice to the ignition switch may be open.

I do not know exactly where that splice is located. I believe it is behind the instrument panel in the Dash Main Harness.

hmm will do some looking ;behind the instrument cluster , is there also a good way to check the plug itself at the back of the ignition switch for power or does the plug get grounded into the switch opening the circut than hot and also is there a way to test the switch ohms to make sure the ignition switch bought at auto zone is good ...

 

🍿

 

has ring lights in the seats that illuminate different colors ... in the center console are 2 wires they were on a toggle switch that didnt work.. when you tap the wires together the seat rings blink they should be on blue or match the front holgens not sure and change orange as the hologens you toggle between the 2 headlights to match the seats ,, again this is a modified car the oem harness that has been spliced into .... every shop simply wont touch them and the few that will around me are sketchy;

 

There should always be 12V hot on the thick red wire at the ignition switch.

For the most basic functions, when you turn the ignition, the switch makes contact between the 12 V in and the output circuits (double check this on a wiring diagram) :

RUN Position:
RED 12V -> PINK (Ignition, Turn Sig/Backup Fuse, Gauges Fuse)
RED 12V -> BROWN (Voltage Regulator, Radio Fuse, Heater Fuse, Wiper Fuse)

ACC Position:
RED 12V -> BROWN (Voltage Regulator, Radio Fuse, Heater Fuse, Wiper Fuse)

START Position:
RED 12V -> PURPLE (Starter Solenoid)
RED 12V -> PINK (Ignition, Turn Sig/Backup Fuse, Gauges Fuse)
GROUND -> DARK GREEN (Temperature Warning Light Test). Note: this is the only circuit grounded by Ignition Switch.

If you use a jumper, you should use a wire with an inline fuse to protect your circuits in case you have a short somewhere. Do not jump 12V to the green wire though.

 

There should always be 12V hot on the thick red wire at the ignition switch.

For the most basic functions, when you turn the ignition, the switch makes contact between the 12 V in and the output circuits (double check this on a wiring diagram) :

RUN Position:
RED 12V -> PINK (Ignition, Turn Sig/Backup Fuse, Gauges Fuse)
RED 12V -> BROWN (Voltage Regulator, Radio Fuse, Heater Fuse, Wiper Fuse)

ACC Position:
RED 12V -> BROWN (Voltage Regulator, Radio Fuse, Heater Fuse, Wiper Fuse)

START Position:
RED 12V -> PURPLE (Starter Solenoid)
RED 12V -> PINK (Ignition, Turn Sig/Backup Fuse, Gauges Fuse)
GROUND -> DARK GREEN (Temperature Warning Light Test). Note: this is the only circuit grounded by Ignition Switch.

If you use a jumper, you should use a wire with an inline fuse to protect your circuits in case you have a short somewhere. Do not jump 12V to the green wire though.

thank you for the wire color code and advice ,