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1968 Z-28 Project For Sale

11K views 95 replies 18 participants last post by  Garfields Maro  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is a real 1968 Z-28 Camaro. I Do NOT have the original engine. I do know the history of the car all the way back to 1970. Car has the numbers matching M-21 4 speed transmission, completely rebuilt. Also, the numbers matching 12 bolt 4:11 posi rearend, rebuilt. The car had been in a barn since 1981 when I bought it 5 years ago. At the time of storage, new GM quarters were installed. Not driven after that. The body is very solid and I would say 98% of body work complete. No bondo fillers. Car is all metal. Car was complete when I bought it. I disassembled for restoration. I just lost interest in completing the project. List of what is included:
Rotisserie, if you want it
1969 DZ block. All machine work complete by Abrahams in Davenport, Ia
New crank, 60 over pistons, new connecting rods and bearings, cam bearings in
Winters aluminum intake with 780 holley
GM aluminum valve covers for '69 Z28
New subframe
New gas tank and sending unit
All new suspension parts, front coil springs incl.
Upper and Lower control arms all rebuilt with new bushings
New body mounts and bolts
New hardware for the rear leaf springs. Springs are multi-leaf
4- 15X7 GM ralley wheels with tires, tires need replacing
New Chrome wheel well opening moldings
Assembly Manual
I have tons of pictures.

Price is $20,000

Will sell car without engine and engine components

Please feel free to ask all questions
 

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#6 ·
I have tried to attach pics of the vin numbers and an error of exceeded mb comes up. I have resized the other pictures that I have on the ad. How do I get around this and what is the max. mb that I can have? Thanks, I would really like to post these pictures.
 
#10 ·
The 1968 Z/28 Camaro is the most difficult year car to document of the first-generation Z/28s. The Trim Plate on the firewall from both the 1967 and 1969 Z/28 give you information that verifies that your car is truly a Z/28.

On the 1968 Z/28, you must have either the Protecto-Plate, Broadcast sheet (Production build sheet), or the correct Engine Production Code with the correct Engine Block Vehicle Code stamping to verify that your car is an authentic 1968 Z/28.

1968 Z/28 How to Document
 
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#18 ·
It's late here, I will work on posting those pics tomorrow. Thanks for all the good replies. I know it is a Z, but have to prove it to others since no engine. I do get it. I have a good project car that someone could really have something in the end. I just wish I was younger and felt like finishing it.
 
#19 ·
It looks like an outstanding project. Sometimes you just have to get out to the garage and start tinkering around to get the bug again. If it doesn't happen for you it doesn't happen. I know guys that are in their 70s and 80s still doing this so your "wish I was younger" comment doesn't float. :wink2: Again, good luck.
 
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#21 ·
It would be nice to see cowl tag info. A picture or type it out.

Nice looking project.

I'm a bit confused on the chatter after Nashvillecat provided the link showing 68 Z/28 transmission details. I think it reads that M21 was standard, M22 (close or wide) optional. and M20 optional.

Sooo... all three Muncie's were available, yes or no?
 
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#28 ·
IMHO without conclusive documents or the original drivetrain it’s not al provable beyond doubt car that would command any premium over a plain Jane 4 speed car.

Great project either way. GLWS
 
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#30 ·
Thanks Garfield for posting the pictures for me. As far as Z-28 or just a good, solid Camaro, someone needs to come look at the car and make an offer. Everyone knows that if I had the original engine sitting there, who knows what the price might be? I have a solid project with good parts to build a nice car, however the new owner wants. Thanks for all the comments, appreciated.
 
#31 ·
Just my personal opinion and most of you know I could care less about #s. For me it would get a 5 speed TKO right out of the box.

Good project for a fair price. I’d list it on Protouring and Lateral G.

I’d also do local CL and Ebay with a reserve or fixed price with or make offer and my contact info in the listing. Best way to sell cars as you get lots of exposure.
 
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#32 ·
Just my personal opinion and most of you know I could care less about #s. For me it would get a 5 speed TKO right out of the box.
Yep, anyone who frequents this site has heard it several times. In all honesty, for a moderator to be so opinionated may tend to steer some folks ("purists") away. jmho Not a big deal as other forums are just a click away....
 
#38 ·
I am seriously thinking about taking the Camaro off the rotisserie. Finish epoxy priming the underneath and painting it. Paint rearend and install that. Not install the subframe, but build a support for front with dollies so it can be moved around. What are you guys thoughts on that? Think it might help finding an interested buyer? All comments welcome. Thanks
 
#41 ·
They don't add to the cost of things already done
Absolutely right. Hard to get the labor back that you either did yourself or paid a shop to do.

I would say if your bent on selling don't put any more time or money into it.

Clean it to the max. Organize the parts with a complete list of everything included. If the parts are boxed make sure they are labeled with what's in the box and have the box # listed in your parts list.

On you parts list Note used or new.

Above all be honest in your descriptions.

When I look a a car to buy and the guy says I replaced this and that and it cost so much I'm thinking OK you fixed what was broken so how does that add value?

You may have seen my posts before on how I evaluate a project car value.

I determine what the car will be worth finished. Not Pie in the Sky BJ #s but what I've seen similar cars sell for. I next estimate how much it will cost me to finish the car. The finished value minus the cost for me to finish it what it worth to me.

Also realizing it's gonna take a year or 2 of my life to complete. So i will discount it somewhat from there.

That's just me and other guys go into it knowing they will be upside down before they start. It's a hobby to me and I enjoy the work and the journey but I never want to be upside down. Things happen Life Changes and you never know.

I believe you have a good project that with good marketing will get you a fair price.
 
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#39 ·
Roger, Shooting the underbelly with epoxy is probably a good idea. I wouldn't paint it though.
Only because some people choose to paint the underbelly a specific color other than black. You
have an awesome project car and it's not the typical project. Unfortunately most people looking
at project cars are thinking cheap. Finding a buyer that appreciates the work and cost you've invested
is going to take some time IMHO. Look into listing it on Hemmings. They get a lot of traffic. I could
see this car going to a high end resto shop that could take it to the next level for their over the top
buyers.
 
#40 ·
Thanks for your comment. It does make sense to just prime the underbelly. But, do you think it would be a good idea to take it off the rotisserie or not? If someone, somewhat interested would come look at what I have, would appreciate it a whole lot more. Like you said, most are looking for cheap, not for what it really is or has to offer. They don't add to the cost of things already done to this project that they would have to pay for later on a less money, rusty car. Of course, depends on what kind of final product they want. I want something that is a "Wow" when people see it!! Thanks again,
 
#42 ·
Roger, I would leave it on the rotisserie unless it's more convenient for you to have it off.
I'm with John. Practically no one is going to purchase a project (not just yours) knowing
up front they will end up badly upside down. Yes this is a hobby to most of us but we still
don't want to throw money away and I would guess you are the same way. I don't know
what condition your car was in when you purchased it but if it was rusty/crusty you really
can't put a value on removing the shot parts because that's something most anyone can do
themselves. To me your car is an excellent project but honestly I would not be a buyer at
your price. That doesn't mean your overpriced but rather I know I could personally get a
project car to the same stage for less money invested. That is because I would do it myself
and not add anything for my time because it would be for myself (hobby). Now for someone
that doesn't have the abilities to do that they would expect to pay up and that's your target
buyer. You know, the type of guy that says "hey, I've got a guy that'll finish this for me".
They are out there. You just have to market it towards them as John said. Once I started
buying parts they would certainly be added. The one thing most project buyers have, or
think they do, is time. I know you have lost interest but another angle would be to have
someone finish the car to a high level so you could sell it for max. $$. This is all just my
opinion so take it as you like.
 
#43 ·
I have decided that I will leave the car on the rotisserie for now, just prime the rest of the underneath and leave it at that. I have tried to edit my very first posting listing the car, but can't find the option to do that. Anyone know how? Here is my Craigslist listing in our local area. Some responses, but nothing happening. https://quadcities.craigslist.org/cto/d/prophetstown-camaro-project/6997236812.html
 
#45 ·
Roger, I like your Craigslist ad. I would recommend adding your location (city & state).
People from all over the place scour CL. Also, in case you didn't think of it, you can list on
CL anywhere in the country. I would suggest Indianapolis, Minneapolis, and Kansas City as
they are within a reasonable drive. I'm pretty sure the Quadcities will automatically show
up in Chicago and Des Moines CL searches.
 
#47 ·
The add on CL looks fine to me. It includes the google map for general location. IMO i wouldn't add your street address as there are too many tire kickers and thieves out there.
Your asking price seems OK to me. As a few have said, add the $$$'s to finish and compare that to a finished restored 68 Z/28.
I noticed you didn't include a picture of the cowl tag. I was hoping to see the built month/week because the VIN is about 70K after mine. Late January or February?
Good luck with the sale.
 
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#50 ·
The squared off corners on a 68 are right and that VIN looks fine, although slightly off center. Leave it alone.
 
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