Hey Guys, this is a 77 Type LT ... It feels like I only have rear brakes when stopping ... I have replaced master cyl ... then flushed entire system ... still did not like the way it was stopping ... so, I replaced wheel cyls, clean, adjusted, and bled system again ... stopping better, but still lacking ... so, I replaced the front calipers , cleaned, and re-bled ... Oh yeah, shoes and pads were first items replaced b4 mast cyl ... The problem is that my front wheels will not lock up no matter how much foot I put on the pedal ... Next stop ( no pun intended ) is the combination valve. The original valve is still on the car. I do think that if I am going 35 and slam on the brakes, the front wheels should lock up. If I am overlooking anything, will someone please chime in. This is power disk/drum setup ... Thanks for any comments/suggestions forthcoming ... Steven
sdtsdt
If the combination valve is pushed to rear bias then the "brake" light on the dash should light. It's worked even on the worst piles of $h!t I've owned.
My bet is the flexible rubber lines. If you replace all 3 it'll make it work much better, stainless braided is far better.
Or possibly the booster, it'll give that "dead pedal" feel and lots of travel, but my first stop would be the lines.
With everything new except the front to rear metal line, my old '77 would lock all four in a panic stop with 235/60/R15's on all four corners.
My bet is the flexible rubber lines. If you replace all 3 it'll make it work much better, stainless braided is far better.
Or possibly the booster, it'll give that "dead pedal" feel and lots of travel, but my first stop would be the lines.
With everything new except the front to rear metal line, my old '77 would lock all four in a panic stop with 235/60/R15's on all four corners.
It could be the front metering valve in the combo valve is stuck closed or partially closed. This will not set the light but it will restrict both fronts. The valve stem should move when the brakes are applied.
For more info, check here. Scroll for 'metering'.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50014.htm
This is not a common problem, but it does happen.
For more info, check here. Scroll for 'metering'.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50014.htm
This is not a common problem, but it does happen.
What pads are on there?
I've seen hard pads that would cause poor braking.
Check the power brake booster too.
I've seen hard pads that would cause poor braking.
Check the power brake booster too.
Coming back around... yeah, the front will bleed fine, but bleed pressure need not be the same as braking pressure ... Also, I am running Raybestos brand pads. I think they are PG Plus... I usually buy middle of road, Raybestos or Bendix. I have ordered a new proportioning valve and I will install that upon arrival, assess things again, then decide if new rotors are in order. If I install new rotors/better pads, I will also replace front rubber hoses at that time. Being able to do the work yourself sometimes allows you to throw a little extra money at it. I am going thru this car for my youngest daughter to be able to drive it to school within a year, so I don't mind spending a little more to get it right.
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