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4 post lift

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8.1K views 27 replies 21 participants last post by  Mkelcy  
#1 ·
which 4 post lift do you recommend and what should I look for ?
need for storage and small jobs
 
#2 ·
Bill,
A few years ago I had a 4 post lift. Worked great, had one camaro on top and parked another under it. My lift had solid metal blocks welded on them so that when the lift went up, the locks would click on the blocks. I would go slightly past the one I wanted to lock on and then let some air out so the locks came to rest on the blocks. I had a drive on ramp system. The one thing I would get is roller wheels with the system. When you take your car off and need to move the lift, you can push the ramos all the way down and it will slightly lift the posts so they now rest on the wheels. Good luck.
 
#3 ·
When I was planning out my new garage I spent many many hours poking around on the garage journal. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ One of the things I asked questions about and did alot of reading on was lifts and I came to the conclusion that 4 post lifts are great for storage but not so good for doing any actual work. Having managed a salvage yard as well as owning my own repair shop for a few years this was just what I expected. Also other than the option of having a mobile 4 post lift like John made reference to that has wheels on it, I see no real advantage since a good 2 post lift can be used to store a car as well. The 2 post though makes it much easier to do any kind of work including routine maintenance that requires taking the wheels off. Brakes, rotating tires, etc. It's also alot more convenient for just about everything else since there are only 4 small pads under the car rather than 2 huge flat plates. Prices have come way down as well. Here is my "Triumph" branded 2 post which cost me $1630 delivered and took the better part of a day to set up. To store a car on it I raise it up all the way and then lower it down onto the mechanical safety locks so there is no weight on the hydraulics. It does everything I need it to do. If I use a couple of the pad extensions on top of the arms so the top car is raised up just a little more I can even fit my S10 pickup underneath. The 80 Trans Am is the wifes new project. It's only fitting since I'm the "Bandit"
 

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#6 ·
OP said storage and small job....so i would highly recommend a 4 post lift with a sliding scissor jack. I just put in a 4 post Bendpak HD-9 with a rj-45 rolling jack and have been very pleased with it. Just changed out a set of motor mounts this weekend in the 69 camaro. Now if it was mostly for maintenance work i would have looked at a 2 post as others have stated.

 
#11 ·
#13 ·
Nothing much to add but just a little note....If you are putting it in one side of a regular garage and have 7' garage doors like they like to put on down here, you can change the tracks out to large radius ones that will let the door open and run along the ceiling. That way you can keep the car on the lift and the door will run over the hood/trunk instead of right into it. Had that done to a house we had a contract on but wound up not buying (crap contractor who is getting sued by the people who wound up buying the house....for $15k more than our original contract).
 
#14 ·
Our new Bendpak 5 ton. Love it, except I was really mad and called the company to complain because their web site was deceptive. It sounded like it was made in the USA. Nope, China.:sad: Also, can't imagine getting any work done without a two-post. Haven't tried yet but getting this truck UNDER a stored car should work. I've taller lift pads too.
Image
 
#18 ·
I have a bendpak hd-9 in my home shop and love it. I had to modify the garage door tracks which I did myself, but then quickly realized that there is more to it than that. What you are looking for is a "high lift vertical track" assuming that you have the headroom. If not, there are alternatives like modified vertical tracks which go up higher prior to turning horizontal. In either case, the spools and springs need to be changed since the overall weight of the door (result of gravity) will be much greater. By that I mean, in a standard set up where your door lays horizontally in the tracks when fully open, there is virtually no weigh applied to the coil springs. In a vertical set up, the full weight of the suspended door is applied to the springs, cables and spools.

Also, if you want an electric opener, there are shaft mounted models that attach to the spool rod.

I hope that this helps..
 
#17 ·
I have the Danmar from Garage Equipment Supply. Under $2K shipped. 6 years not a single issue.

I had a couple buddies over and we set it up in an easy afternoon with beer and pizza.

Had my garage door raised with longer rails and an extra panel for under $300
 
#21 ·
I did a lot of lift research a couple of years ago and still haven't pulled the trigger but leaning towards a two-post for the reasons already stated. Originally I first looked at the four post Back Yard Buddie lift but after a bit of research time found out they are the only (as far as I can tell) lift manufactured and sold that is not safety certified which begs the question why?

And from a price standpoint they are more expensive and I can't find the justification for that either?

It's possible the certification status has changed (and possibly pricing as well) between then and now, but I'd only make a purchase of a product that had been submitted for and certified by an independent industry organization. Just some food for thought before you make a purchase.
 
#25 ·
I have a two post lift. Yes the concrete is very important. I have eight inch floors in my shop with rebar , steel wire, and keyed joints between the bays. I have had it for about ten or twelve years. I have the low door problem too. I have not hit the door yet, but have came very close. The most important thing I would say is that if you are going to do trans work , buy a clear floor model.
 
#26 ·
Food for thought. I have had my Bendpak HD-9 for about 4 years and I don't know what I would do without a lift. Okay, I am spoiled, lol

The other day, while working on my recently acquired 68 which I had to pull the motor out of, I quickly realized that unless you have access to a couple of friends on a regular basis, you are not going to push the car up the ramps and on to the lift safely, or back it off without the risk of getting hurt, having the car get away from you, or ???

Soooo, I decided that a manual crank winch (like that used on a boat trailer with a simple fabricated bracket mounted to the front of the lift structure would be the cats meow. I ordered a 1200 LB. unit with a web strap in lieu of a cable and will post pics when I get it together. :hurray:
 
#27 ·
I went with the Direct Lift - less than $2K in the US and about $2,200 in Canada. Great lift so far. Comes with casters, jacking bridge and steel ramps. I bought a set of Race Ramp brand ramps because the steel ones are HEAVY!!! Forgive the Porsche banner...I am redecorating soon :)

 
#28 ·
I've been warned by sellers and installers of 4 post lifts that the casters, while convenient, don't offer nearly as much safety for you or security for your vehicles as bolting the lift to the floor.

YMMV, but my 4 post is solidly bolted to the floor of my shop.