Is it a RS? You have to unscrew the front clear lens to replace the bulb - the back harness does not come off. Same thing for back-up lamps. I've never really looked at a standard light closely, but if it has screws in the lens most likely you have to do the same. Also I believe the metal base has guide pins at different depths, so you have to look close and make sure the bulb goes in the right way before you push and twist it into place.

 

Yes, it's a RS. This is quite frustrating just to try to change the light bulb. Of course I took the front cover off & eventually removed to housing from the panel.

I just can't get the bulb to "lock" into place like on the tail lights.

 

You have to be careful that the orientation of the two posts is correct in worn sockets it is possible to get the bulb in wrong. Also be careful when you push the bulb to remove it cause you can get the posts wedged if they were inserted wrong in the first place. At least this has been my experience with 69's.

 

Assuming an 1157 bulb, double filament -

I'm sure you're aware that the bulb has one (tit) higher than the other and that the socket has corresponding high and low L shaped grooves. Depending on the socket, the contacts in the base are usually some sort of spring to keep a bit of tension on the bulb so it makes good contact, so you have to push in and turn the bulb to lock it in.

An 1156 bulb is a single filament and has two (tits) low on the base each the same height. Any chance you're trying to install an 1156 bulb in an 1157 socket?

How many TC members does it take to screw in a light bulb?

 

How many TC members does it take to screw in a light bulb?

Okay, I’m posting this because MAYBE it will help out some poor soul in the future.

I FINALLY got my bulb to go in the socket.

The springs at the base of my 67 turn signal housing are pretty strong.

I sanded down the little “domes” at the base of each light bulb (yes, I was replacing both park lights today).

After I sanded them down a little (NOT totally flat) the bulb(s) went right in!!!!

You have to try to be turning the bulb at the same time you are pushing down.

The little soldered domes at the base of each light bulb were just too high to allow the bulb to “lock” while rubbing up against the little domes in the light socket. Of course the spring at the base of each socket compensates for the material I filed away.

If this is the same joke from the TV show “Cheers” the answer is “NONE, because Team Camaro members don’t have the depth perception or motor skills to put a light bulb in a light socket.”
The version from Cheers was about new born babies.

 

Your post made me remember fighting with my rs parking light bulbs a few years ago. I couldn't believe how difficult they were to get in and wound up doing the same thing you did.


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A tip: one inch wide masking tape is your best friend.
Get a length of tape, double it sticky side together between your thumb and forefinger with approx 1 inch over the ends of your finger and thumb, sticky side out.
Now grasp bulb globe with tape and fingers and push in and twist. Wa-la!

 

I came close to this method, but I put the sticky tape on the end of my needle nose pliers. The tape just wasn’t sticking to slick glass enough to hold though. If I had thought of using the tape on my fingers, I would have. That sounds like it's worth trying. Hopefully I won't have to hassle with this particular operation again for a long, long time.

 

I've got a strip of rubber inner-tube I use when I have no grip in my paws left.

 

Had the same problem on my 67 RS a month ago trying to remove the std bulb and install a new LED type bulb. Yes I had the glass off from the front. End result was I broke the little piece of brittle plastic inside the socket that is in front of the spring and has the two contact points on it. Could not find a replacement that would work because it also has an index tab on it. The spring is way to strong for the application!! Ended up removing the assembly and buying a new one from NPD for $60.

What I found!
If the assembly is on your bench you can gently pull on the wires and compress the spring and the bulb will go right in and twist the 1/4 turn clockwise to lock in place. Then release the tension on the wires and reinstall the assembly.
What a pain in the A! This can not be done in the car because yo can not get to the back of the assembly to pull on the wires!

Another problem I found was the self taping nuts that hold the assembly in place. What a poor design! Should have been tapped and a locking nut used to allow easy in and out.

I know this sounds hard to beleive but this took me at least 2 hours R&R after all parts were on the bench and ready to go.

I had to make a rubber gasket to help take up the tension on the self tapping nuts.

And I know how to replace light bulbs without an assistant and a ladder!

John