Use a paper clip, push in clip, and unscrew cylinder from the ACC position.

 

Is there a trick to get it to the ACC position? I think the cylinder may be broken or something. I never drove the car so I'm not sure if this worked before or not.

 

Book reads to turn CCW from the ACC position. You may have to 'jiggle' the key to get to ACC.

Its got to be ACC position. When replacing the whole switch, remove the bezel from the outside, then switch will drop out from behind the inst panel.

Unhook battery first.

 

Oh, maybe I didn't use the right terms, I'm a bit of a novice automotive wise (but ready to learn). What I want to do is remove the entire switch, so they can media blast and repair the dash. I was able to unscrew the bezel out until it was real loose but then it gets hung up at the very front plate where the key goes in. Maybe I don't need this ACC trick then? I'm just afraid I'll break the bezel if I apply too much force.

 

I'm pretty sure you have to take the ignition cylinder out before the bezel will come all the way off to pull out the entire assembly from the back. The only way to get that cylinder out is to turn the key to the ACC position, insert the pin in the hole, you'll feel a pin inside depress and pull the cylinder out. You may have to keep jiggling the key to get it to turn to ACC as it could be just stuck or broken inside, be liberal with the WD40. Once you get it to the ACC position, make sure you stab around in the hole with your paper clip to make sure you're hitting the pin that depresses. If you get the cylinder out, unscrew the bezel off and just push the assembly through the hole. If you want it completely removed, unhook the battery as said above and then pull the switch down below the dash (carefully), and use a small flat head screwdriver to press in the 3 tabs that hold the connector to the switch.

If you just can't get it into the ACC position, you're very limited on options. In order to remove mine, which I didn't have a key for at all....I had to drill out the cylinder and that was a pain in the arse.

 

If you're removing the whole switch, you'll find a notch for the anti-rotation key on the switch body, this stops it from turning when screwing on /off the bezel nut.

You can reach around and finaggle the switch body using the notch to clearance the switch with cylinder installed. You can bend inward a side of the notch and "screw" out the switch body using the notch for the cylinder clearance.

 

Don't know if mine is different, but it wasn't that hard to take off. W/o key in in the ignition, I simply unscrewed the first "ring". No indents that I could see that I needed to push. The second "ring" with start and ACC on it simply slid off as I pulled the ignition from behind the inst. panel. Perhaps if yours isn't coming all the way off, it was cross threaded when installed. Hope you get it off.

Mike

 

Hi Guys
I need to replace the entire switch. I have removed the bezel and the cylinder. Now from where is the easiest way to disconnect the wires and replace the switch? Down of the dash or some were else? Steps to be followed?

 

"easiest" would be from the side, with the dash carrier removed. Assuming it needs some work anyway, now's the time.

Otherwise, your on your back under the dash, pull it down as far as the wires will let it, and try to use a small screwdriver to release the 3 clips that hold the connetor on. Or get the connector off while the ignition is still tight to the dach, might be easier.

 

Disconnect your battery first. You slip a screwdriver in between the contacts accidentally and you're going to short something. Remember the ignition wires are always live.

 

Pexa, sounds like the bezel is getting hung up on the stainless face, that covers the cylinder. i had to pop that off first. small flat screw driver did the trick for me. hope this helps ya out. sonny