I heard some guys having issues and using a small stick on felt on the switch button because the door wasnt pushing the switch in all the way. Maybe a shimm behind the switch to move the whole thing out a tad? I will be putting my light assy in this spring and am mentally prepaired for the issues.

Good luck and post your results !

 

I have a 67 with doors also and it sounds like you need to bring the switches out some to make full contact with the door. Mine is a factory setup and I didn't see any way of adjusting them aside from shimming like Gary said. My bolt holes weren't elongated. I would have to use some small washers behind the switch to bring it out.

 

The problem is not with the switch or the position. You need to tighten the mini "clutchpack" under the headlight arm. Its made up of thin plastic washers,and installs between the lower headlight door arm and the electric motor.Right now, there is not enough resistance (force) to shut down the limit switch.

Heres how to fix it:

Add a thin fender washer to the mix of washers. This will tighten up the assembly,increase the amount of drag,and give your headlight door assembly enough resistance to shut off the switch.

 

Mine does the same thing at the firewall and the motor bounces. The door hits the limit switch, the motor stops for a split second and then it is pushed away and the motor turns on again. It makes a tapping sound as the motor turns off and on.

Bob, thanks for the recommendation.

 

It sounds like to me that if the arm was loose enough to let the limit switch push it back upon contact, then it wouldn't be tight enough to even swing the door closed. You can only make the arm so tight before it's too tight and the door won't open or close.

 

I'll second Bob's suggestion. If you can push on the door and get the motor to shut off your switches are fine. The output shaft of the gearbox is not "keyed" into the arm at all, it relies 100% on the friction disks clamping the swingarm. You could tighten the arm at the GEARBOX end as much as you want, it'll still open and close the doors, but you don't want to do that, you'd probably bust the gears in the gearbox before too long. The little friction disks were used for a reason.

I just kept going a half turn until the clutchpack was just tight enough to hold the doors against the switch, didn't go any tighter. Haven't touched it in two years.

For what it's worth, my repro limit switches had little squares of foam rubber to help cushion the door as it smacked into the limit switches. It was pretty thick stuff and came out past the switch button so it was able to push the door off the switch when the friction disks weren't tight. I'm guessing Jeff's RS conversion kit has the same thing.

 

Most likely they are "hanging up" before they get to the switch. Feel how easy/hard they are when it get to switch and watch if the doors lift a little or move down and you can get an idea for what is hanging them up.

 

Thanks for all suggestions - I've got headlight doors to open and close properly. I did shim radiator support switches slightly which did seem to help but the key was to find the torque on the output shaft that would shut the motor off at the open position but not so tight that it wouldn't "release" and swing the door shut too. In the kit, it cautions not to overtighten the nut (3 ft-lbs) or damage may occur. I figured if it had enough in it to shut the door it out to be able to open properly too. It just needed another 1/2 turn or so. I also added a thin washer to both "clutchpaks." It takes up some "slack" and snugs up without bearing down on the wrench.

Thanks - jeff

 

Thanks Guys. New member and these directions were dead-on and helped me solve the problem where the driver's sides headlight door would not sit/stay against either swtich; the door moved too easily. Solved it by revmoving the assembly adding two hand-made thin plastic washers and tightening the locking nut to what seemed just right. Works perfectly. I was concerned that there seemed to be too much slack or play in teh motor when moving the door by hand, but when hooked up to eletrical, the slack disappeared.

Thanks again - Mike