Hey Tom I am going to give you the same advice someone gave to me. Pay what you think it is worth, and if you get a great deal, just drive it. The bad news is that the car probably does have a lot of rust issues judging from the pictures. Most likely a major project and perhaps not worth it. Always best to buy a car already done. Obviously a blue interior, with repop black interior parts added, and not done very well. If the car is running it might be a fun driver for a while. Thats what I did with my 69. You might be best off holding out for a finished car or a more solid car to start with if you are planing on doing a build. My 68 had a vinyl roof and it was really bad underneath once I removed it. The car is not bad in the trunk, but a closer inspection would be required to tell for certain how bad the rust is.

 

That car has filler front to back. Floor has been replaced, rocker skins possibly right over the old ones. Notice the poor welds at the pinchweld and the piece of MIG wire sticking out? Door bottoms are toast and the fender bottoms have cheese. See the galvanized repair plate under the subframe rear mounting bushing (pic 8)? That's a sign of poor repairs. That needs to be fixed before you do any mechanical upgrades of which you are speaking. What lies under that vinyl? Try to visualize that car with the quarters, rockers, fenders and doors lying in pile on the ground. That is what you're buying for that $10K, a rotten driving project car. Consideration of a car's value when completed is a factor that needs no explanation.

 

Try to visualize that car with the quarters, rockers, fenders and doors lying in pile on the ground. That is what you're buying for that $10K, a rotten driving project car. Consideration of a car's value when completed is a factor that needs no explanation.

Thanks for the details and I definitely appreciate the candor.

So, you would say buy it if it's an acceptable 10k beater, and not spend much changing/restoring beyond safety and drive-ability needs, maybe resell it if I find something more solid? Or, if I do want something more solid and somewhat finished, should I just skip this one and not risk getting stuck with two for awhile if I can't unload this one for a time (I can't picture having more than one 1st gen Camaro as being a big problem, ha!)

I guess I'm concerned that the poor bodywork indications you pointed out are the tip of the iceberg, stuff you notice when you dig in later, then you sell it you have to disclose the extra problems (I have to)

Good stuff to consider, thanks guys

-Tom

 

5-6 if you ask me!! it looks to have some serious rust issues!!!
i picked up this 68 a yr or so ago for 9400 with original 327 running with m20 4 speed and 10 bolt posi, only rot i have found is a qrter size bubble on drivers rear quarter!!!
That car looks like someone bondoed it up about 5 yrs ago and slapped some pretty paint on it to make a quick buck and now the crappy work is showing threw!!
http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/Tonystoys123/

 

That car looks like someone bondoed it up about 5 yrs ago and slapped some pretty paint on it to make a quick buck and now the crappy work is showing threw!!

I think you hit the nail on the head, though clearly I'm not good at spotting bondo, I only saw the stuff that's under the doors. He did say the rear quarters were replaced when it was painted, or at least "he said he said", sort of like the matching numbers that were non-matching...

That's a sweet looking car, I'll give you 9,450!

I think that's a great price you got, exceptional even?
Would others agree that for 10k I can find a running pretty solid rot-free car? I would go 15k for a rust free 4-speed v8 Camaro, preferably that had everything intact. Is that a search for weeks, or months, or years?

thanks, Tom

 

look at it this way, what ever rust you see there is more than likely 10 times as much there that you cant see!!

 

i looked at probably 30 , 67 and 68 camaro rot boxes in the 10-15g range before i found the orange one.
most give you the big (there harder and harder to find bs) or i saw one on bj go for 4 times what im asking!!
the motor and trans in mine were worn and i knew that going in but when i buy any old car i buy for the condition of the body only PERIOD. motors,trannies,seats etc.. can be bolted and unbolted and replaced easily. floors,quarter panels, etc.. cannot and its much more expensive in the long run!
i say pass on that and wait for a nicer one!!
i put a new 355,rebuilt my m20 and all new clutch pressure plate etc.. in mine and the paint is 25 yr old cracking enamel but im not into 8g paint jobs and can drive it with tatered paint for 4-5 yrs before repainting it
thanx for the compliment by the way and the people i bought it from were asking 12,500 when i went to look at it!!

 

Tom, What part of MA are you in? I'd be willing to keep my eyes open around here for you. I bet toward the end of summer you'll see more cars come on the market. Meanwhile are you hitting any local cruises and asking around?

 

Thanks, I'm in the Framingham/Marlboro/Worcester area, haven't been to any shows in a while, but was planning to check out Heberts on Thursday and one on Saturday at the old Rileys in Framingham, see what the range of conditions I can expect to find is like.

 

i use craigslist to find cars locally and i think this is an ad for the one your lookin at??
http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/1865464465.html

use this and refine for local searches.
http://www.craiglook.com/all.html?q=1968+camaro&p=2

 

i use craigslist to find cars locally and i think this is an ad for the one your lookin at??
http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/1865464465.html

use this and refine for local searches.
http://www.craiglook.com/all.html?q=1968+camaro&p=2

Yeah that's the one.
Craiglook is perfect, thanks, I figured there was something like that out there, much appreciated!

 

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/1865220275.html

 

Walk from that car. Expand your hunt to CT, VT, NH and RI. You don't know bodywork so bring someone who does. I just told this to a customer and he bought a car anyway and paid too much. Now he's a little disappointed after I gave him an estimate.

 

Thanks, you have a point about my knowledge of body work... I actually just called someone out your way and although he claims it's a Georgia car, and rust free, he then told me about the fabricated replacement sheetmetal floors and new full trunk pan... Is it reasonable to hope a rust free car is one that never rotted out, rather than one that's had it all "fixed"?

 

I don't know if someone else said it and I missed, but car doesn't even appear to be a factory RS; this car has the reverse lamp harness hole drilled through the bottom of the edge of the center trunk pan, which is NOT a factory location.

Based on what I see and the market right now, that car with NOM (and a supposedly rebuilt, but nothing special engine) drops into the $5K to $6K range, easily.

The amount of visible rust is almost to the point where you'd almost approach it as a car that may have to be parted out, thinking like:

ok, the 12-bolt is probably worth $600 to $1500 depending on condition
engine is nothing special, nor is trans. Maybe $600 worth for both if really lucky.
Then from there, what on the car is worth that much? It has a good VIN and title (and I would want to check the hidden VINs to make sure it isn't a rebody somewhere along the line.

You can also approach from the resto cost side of things, and figure you'd sink $20K easy into the resto, just getting it solid and painted and with a decent drivetrain. If you paid $10K and completed the resto in 2 years or so, CONGRATULATIONS, you own a $14K to $16K car that cost at least twice that amount.

 

Given these new photos... I would pass because rusty rockers is WAY beyond my skill level.

 

ditto, just looked it up and as much as I enjoy welding, it'd be crooked when I was done with it. I guess I should be glad he didn't accept my offer, though I'm sure I would thoroughly enjoy the fun of driving it without touching it, once that wore off I may be faced with trading up in a sellers market or sinking cash that I wouldn't see a 50% return on.
Besides, I really do want a 4-spd, and a 396 NOM would be acceptable

thanks guys, I think I will keep shopping and expand the radius and price range accordingly.

Saw this ad from craigslist and thought "really?!?"

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1847147669.html

1967 Camaro - $900 (Norfolk)


Has not been on the road for 20yrs. poor shape. Very little rust. v/8 Small block 4 spd. needs restoring. NOT a get in & drive home car. 237-4602 No trades price firm, bring battery if you want to hear it run. Cash only, title in hand. thanks Scott

gone in an hour, he must still be getting calls...

 

you know almost every old car like this has some rust issues - its unavoidable and we expect to have to fix it, but is there anything worse than having to repair someone elses poor bodywork? to me thats a double YUK! I grew up in Chicago and you get used to rust-its normal but moved to Texas back in the '79 and my first Z was from Chicago(an old neighbor sold me a rough RS Z that had a rough life but it had what I was looking for 12 bolt, discs, RS options and being my first car I still love it but I sold it a dozen years ago and I dont miss the rust! I know it dont sound right but I'd be looking in the southwest and transport a car home. Rust flat sucks and a rust bucket is just that! about 2 years ago I pulled a rear end and springs out of was my 69 bird and when the front spring perch bolts just came right out and didnt break the J clips it just made me smile - always look for least rusty car you can find- the effort will be worth it in lots of little ways

 

come to california and drive back on the I-80 for crying out loud you can get a 68 out here for about 15k already done .. check craigslist their are a bunch of them... if the car doesnt have the pop with all the rust work it has id say its worth maybe 6-7k also engines rust as well and so do transmissions out there, and rear ends... does the car have matching numbers and protecto plate?

 

Dosperado, if you are interested in a nice 67 vert in your area with numbers matching 327/275, PM me and I'll give you the contact info.
The car is not for sale publicly as far as I know but the owner hinted to me about it.