[1RSSS]

So a few Friday nights ago I was on my way home and I was getting in it pretty hard and lost my fan belt. I managed to make it a few miles before I realized it happened, my indicator was a windshield full of coolant (was driving with no hood) needless to say it redlined and probably got 300 degrees, the gauge goes to 250 and it was wrapped completely around . I immediately pulled over and shut it off on the side of the road. Steam and coolant was boiling and blowing out of the radiator cap all over the car and engine bay. The radiator hoses expanded probably 3 times their normal size. I managed to nurse it home another 2 miles and let sit until morning. I assumed something had to be hurt with it getting that hot. Both upper and lower radiator hoses were completely shriveled up. I replaced both hoses, fan belt, and topped the coolant back off (ended up losing 2 gallons of coolant). I have also noticed the coolant almost looks a little milky? The radiator cap was the original 11 cap on my 3 core champion aluminum radiator and I changed that to a 16 from Orilieys... Fired it up and took it for a spin and now its running hotter than it ever has. Before the car would rarely rise above 160-170 degrees. It might get 180-190 on hot humid day in stop and go traffic. and quckly cool after driving up around 40-55 mph. Now the car quickly gets to 190 and will rise and even out to 210. It will not rise much farther than that but it will not decline either. I know this can be considered normal to some but its just never got any where near this hot since It overheated. I changed the thermostat thinking that may be an issue, Ive had in a 160 and a 190 within the last 2 weeks with no real signs of change. Im pretty sure I had a 160 in originally. The upper radiator hose is also now collapsing after shutting off. What gives? Im just more less worried something is damaged as the motor may have a total of 1000 miles on the build. Its a 10:1 427 with a edelbrock aluminum long waterpump with stock 7 blade fan, shroud, and hayden fan clutch. My concern is a trashed $300 waterpump or worse a headgasket. Any clues or ideas would be great!

 

[scblucam]

I have also noticed the coolant almost looks a little milky?

Head gasket, cracked head, block. What does it look like after refilled?

 

[BPOS]

If you pegged the gauge that hard it's possible that it was damaged. Might round up a temp gun or temporary gauge to see what it's really doing.

I would put a pressure tester on the cooling system and see what you get.

If your first clue was coolant on the windshield, I'm guessing your GEN light doesn't work? (one wire alt?)

 

[Cdminter55]

If you don't have a compression tester you need one. Check out this compression tester from Summit Racing. It's a nice one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ino-3614/overview/ Be sure to read up on doing a compression test so you can do it correctly the first time. You should have a leakdown test done also. These two test will tell you if you have a blown head gasket. Look for signs of water in the oil. I am a little worry, you said the coolant looked a little milky. That is oil and water mixed. Have the leakdown test done first. BTW do you have the factory black pullys? If so you will need a set of deep groove pulleys or switch to March serpintine pulleys. http://marchperformance.com/chevy/c...ley-and-bracket-kits/long-water-pump/chevy-big-block-long-water-pump-ultra.html

 

[1RSSS]

I have checked the fluids since and everything seems to be staying consistent. I will have to get in touch with my engine builder on a compression and pressure tester from him. My oil isn't going up or down and neither is my coolant. Not seeing any unusual leaks either. But the coolant does seem to be a bit milky and not 100%

 

[1RSSS]

Is it possible to have an air pocket in the system?

 

[68rs406]

Is it possible to have an air pocket in the system?

While I agree you need to check the motor with a compression test and do a leakdown because of the degree it overheated, the fact the hose is collapsing after it cools makes me think it has air in the system still, which is not surprising, and would definitely cause the issues you are seeing. Burp the system and it may improve.

There is no doubt overheating like it did probably hurt it to a degree, how much is the question. I have seen motors overheat and lock up, and start right up after they cooled. Motors are pretty tough. Not great for cylinder walls etc., but it may not even be noticable.

 

[rp930]

The milky coolant is bad news. Severe overheating can also take the tension out of the piston rings.

 

[1RSSS]

Have yet to get a compression or pressure tester on the car but I decided to mess with it a bit today. Fired it up and run with the radiator cap off. I did see a few slight bubbles in the radiator. I tried burping and reving the piss out of it with no luck. Coolant continued to rise the warmer it got and never really seemed as though the thermostat was opening? I was still able to squeeze the radiator hoses with ease at 210? Got to 210 and still leveled out. Not going up or down. Had it running in the garage for roughly 20 mins with no sign of change.

 

[rp930]

Did the bubbles continue? What does the coolant look like?

 

[TJS69]

This is not the cause of your problem, but you should drill 2 small holes in your thermostat so it is easier to get the air purged out of the cooling system. (I drill 2... picture shows 3 ) This may cure your collapsing radiator hose.

 

[DT]

What's the oil look like?? White smoke from exhaust ?? As suggested, you really need to pressure test the cooling system.

 

[Denvervet]

One can also get coolant checked for hydrocarbons.. will tell if head gasket or something cracked . Just one more diagnostic to do but leak down test still important for motor and piece of mind.

 

[68SSlemans]

If you pull your oil cap or PCV off your valve cover, does the oil residue look milky or white?