[BobKovacs]

I'm getting ready to start the sheetmetal work on a new project car, and the largest piece that needs to be replaced is the firewall/toeboard panel. The subframe mounting points are rotted, as are the toeboards.

My question is, how much flex/movement should I expect when that panel is removed, and what's the best way to prevent it? I was thinking of running a 1 1/2" square tube crossbrace from one rocker panel to the other, just behind the rear joint on the panel, thinking that would be enough. Any ideas/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ams69]

i just did this and what you are describing is exactly what i did and it worked out perfect, of course i actually had the side cowls and upper cowl all out at the same time which was a little scary for me being a novice but it all worked out

 

[ams69]

if you would like pics i can text to you but i am not smart enough to post here on the site LOL 812-972-3892 shawn

 

[69Project]

You can brace it, but it maybe more beneficial to you for your whole project to build a jig if you are planning other large sheetmetal replacement.

That's is what I have done with mine and I have the firewall removed at the moment. I bought my jig plans from first gen jigs and use a different jig style than what some folks on here use. There are jig plans floating around on this site if you do a search. The advantage those have over mine is that they are free!

If you leave the lower cowl, upper cowl, dash and the rockers installed while doing the firewall, I do not think it would move much at all. Throw a brace between the lower door jams and you should be good if you are not interested in a jig.

They do sell just the subframe mounting boxes and toe boards if you think you can get away with just that. Getting the firewall out is a big job, lots of spot welds to remove. I cheated and used a plasma cutter, but then my car has more issues than just rusty toeboards and subframe boxes...

 

[BobKovacs]

They do sell just the subframe mounting boxes and toe boards if you think you can get away with just that. Getting the firewall out is a big job, lots of spot welds to remove. I cheated and used a plasma cutter, but then my car has more issues than just rusty toeboards and subframe boxes...

That would have been my choice, but the guy I'm buying it from already bought the firewall panel and started drilling out the spot welds, so some of the work is already done. I'd end up having to weld the firewall back in across the top, so i might as well just finish what he started and not have to buy any sheetmetal (for that part, at least....)

 

[patvac]

when the subframe is removed, can you actually replace the firewall directly or other pieces have to be removed. I was actually supposed to replace to full floor pan, but the toe boards are rotted and the subframe support also. My car is actually on jack stand and i need some advice.

 

[69Project]

I would rig up some kind of jig as opposed to jack stands, but you have to work with what you have sometimes. You can work on the car with it on jack stands but you need to be careful and be cognizant of the fact that when you remove sheetmetal you may need to brace it first so it doesn't move on you. Removing just the firewall is a big job beause you have a ton of spot welds to remove it from the cowl section and then where the firewall meets the rockers, door jams/kick panel. I resorted to a plasma cutter when I removed mine, but that will not do you much good if you are trying to save any of the surrounding sheetmetal. In my case, I wasn't saving much of anything. It can be done but it is just very slow to do, if you are saving the surrounding sheetmetal. If you can, just replace the toe boards and the subframe mount boxes, it might be easier for you. You will have to balance that idea with what you want to do with the car, complete show car or just a driver with some patch panels.

 

[patvac]

Thank you for information i'm going for a driver not a show car