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69SS396 4sp Muncie swap to TKX

4K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  StevieBB54  
#1 ·
Time to replace my M21. It is leaking pretty bad. Not numbers matching to my car. Probably front bearing retainer seal and/or countershaft. Considering upgrade to TKX. Also need to replace pilot bearing. Will I need to replace crossmember and shorten driveshaft with a TKX? Also wondering whether it's easier just to replace bellhousing/clutch/flywheel and purchase a kit, maybe go hydraulic clutch.
 
#2 ·
There is a lot of info on this site and several others about the TKX swap. I finished mine a few months back and am very pleased with the new TKX. A real game changer when it comes to driving further than just around my side of town. I did a "kit" that included everything, flywheel, pilot bushing, clutch, fork, t/o bearing, crossmember etc... I even got all new hardware to bolt everything together in my package. I did buy my driveshaft from a specialty shop, I upgraded to 1350 u joints at the same time. I did not do the hydraulic clutch. Maybe @StevieBB54 will jump in here, he did the hydraulic clutch when he did his TKX install.

Lots of options out there.

If I was to make a recommendation, call Jody Hagg at Jodys Transmission, he is a member here. @JodysTransmissions Super guy, very knowledgeable, and very accessible for help, often times after hours and even on Saturday. Excellent pricing and lots of stuff in stock. My neighbor saw my setup and ordered a similar kit from Jody. I helped him install it and for the second time, it went together smooth, like it is supposed to.
 
#4 ·
I agree on using Jody. I didn't know about Jody when I purchased my TKO 600 complete kit from SST. The only person you could talk to when I called was a secretary. She couldn't answer questions or even sell you a part with their part numbers. She would always say Gene will call you back. It took two days for him to call me back, and it seemed like I was annoying him even when I was giving him payment information. Fast forward I had a left knee injury and decided to go with a hydrologic clutch. I had to go through Gene again on his playing field and at his leasure. Once again he seemed like I was a thorn in his side . I bought the stuff each time during the first conversation with Gene, so it seemed to me it was a pretty easy sale.

After I bought the hydraulic clutch set up I found out about Jody. We talked and he actually took his time out of his day off while on a motorcycle ride and talked me through parallel and concentric, and got me all set up. Less than 500 miles later my TKO is vibrating, and now I have a puddle of fluid on the floor of my shop. Buy from Jody and get the right stuff the first time. My TKO has less than 2K miles on it, and it makes my car a thorn in my side. I plan on calling Jody when I get some free time.
 
#5 ·
Hard for me to be accurate on the time. I am fortunate that I had both jobs in a shop (no lift) with no rush to get the job done. If I had hit it hard, it can be done in a weekend, maybe in a day. I probably stretched it out for a week. Then another two or three days waiting on the driveshaft. I measured for my driveshaft after eveything was together, which is the right way to do it. Don't rush the job, it is realtivly easy to do yourself. I took my time and enjoyed the process.

@jkeithdrees is telling the truth, he didn't even buy from Jody, and Jody helped him out, just the kind of guy he is. There aren't a lot of people in this industry like Jody, he is the real deal.
 
#6 ·
Call Jody, he will take care of you.
You can buy a kit from him with flywheel, clutch, scatter shield, trans, yoke, crossmember & shifter.
Your factory bell housing is likely out of square.

You can retain the mechanical linkage or go hydraulic if you desire.... I kept mine mechanical as all my linkage was new

After it's installed you can buy a new driveshaft or get yours shortened.
If you have the engine built up a bit, it is never a bad idea to get a driveshaft with 1350 u-joints for some added safety... don't forget the yoke for the rear end also.

You also have the choice of close or wide ratio.
Opinions vary, but the rear gear you are running will help that decision.
The 2.87 first is much more low gear than you have now & the choice of .68 or .81 OD depends on your rear gear.'
I would not consider the 3.27 low version.
 
#7 ·
Love reading this post. As said Call Jody and you will not have any issues with the project. Everything everyone said about Jody and how he will help you 7 days a week is 100% true. I was a heavy truck/bus wrench for years, I worked in a good shop with some very knowledgeable people. That was years ago and during the retrofit when I called to ask Jody for a clarification, it reminded me of having one of those knowledgeable guys working in the stall next to me.
I had never even touched a hydraulic clutch let alone do a conversion with a BBC, he explained the procedure once and it was a piece of cake.
You wont go wrong with Jody. My advice ask him about his version of the quick shifter and how he sets up the spring tower. Hint: Those other guys have a coil spring attached to the shifter housing that sticks out of the shifter housing and interferes with tunnel. In a Gen 1 it wont fit cleanly without massaging the tunnel. Jody uses thick bellville washers, and its in main housing and its compact AND will last forever, unlike the off the shelf coil spring version that will loose its spring tension over time. He's first class hands down.
 
#9 ·
I’ve been buying transmissions and kits from SST for over 10 years. 4 in the last year alone for C2 Corvettes. Always have been pleased with the quality of the parts and customer service. Gene has alway been great to work with.

Jody also has a great reputation. Can’t go wrong with either company. The one I would steer away from is American Powertrain.
 
#10 ·
I bought a complete TKO 600 kit over 9 years ago from SST. Everything fit perfect and now has about 25,000 trouble free miles on the whole set up. I have nothing but good things to say about SST. I have also heard nothing but good things about Jody as well. I think that you will be fine going with either one for your needs. Do yourself a favor, buy the kit and not just the transmission. It is well worth it in the long run.
 
#12 ·
Thanks to everyone for the comments. I really appreciate all the tips! I'll get busy on a kit. Sounds like the crossmember and driveshaft mods are needed if I want a 5 speed but I'm hoping to avoid mods to the trans tunnel.
 
#14 ·
Yes you do need the X member and the driveshaft needs to be about 1-1/2" or so shorter. I removed a 3" driveshaft with 1310 joints and went with 3.5 and 1350 u joints. Almost bulletproof drivetrain (the icing on the cake will be the 9"er someday soon).
 
#15 ·
The kit from SST comes with the driveshaft with the yoke attached as well as the crossmember and all of the installation hardware. The kit is complete and truly plug and play. No tunnel mods are required for this swap. Everything that I am telling you is 100% fact based off of experience.
 
#16 ·
TKX is no mods to tunnel.
Another phenomenal experience working with @JodysTransmissions . Jody assisted me via text on a weekend getting parallel and concentric, he has a process of drawing out the bolts and marking measurements. Sending a few pictures of alignment numbers and he can give direction to get the numbers right on. Made the process as easy as possible.