[Rookobird]

I am installing their 1" front sway bar w/ engine out and control arms, spindles, springs in. It seems that when the sway bar is installed, I can't turn the front wheels (Spindles and backing plates) very far before the ends of the sway bar hit the steering arm. I am considering grinding (massaging) the ends of the sway bar so wheels will turn more. I don't really know how much turning (steer) I need since my rotors and wheel/tires are in another location. But
the turning on the rear side is quite a bit more where there is a built in stop.
Has anyone had this problem? Best way to deal with it? (69 Coupe 350 w/Disc brakes)

Thanks,
John

 

[guccieng]

i had interference (how do you spell that?) with the steering arm bolt that protrudes from the back of the spindle through the steering arm. there are different length bolts, but i just grinded it down since my brakes are new and there is no time in the next 2 decades that is coming off the car. it shouldn't be hitting anything else. when the car is on the ground, the sway bar should be parallel with pavement. there is no 'stop' for the sway bar, only the lower control arm to the steering arm. you might need to wait till there's weight on the ground to see where it ends up and what interference (sp) you may have at that point. btw, i used the same sway bar on the 'bird.

 

[Rookobird]

John,

Thanks for the quick reply! Mine is hitting above the bolt about 1 inch up on the upside down "U" part of the steering arm. It seems like it will hit in about the same place when weight is on the suspension as they are both (steering arm and sway bar) hooked to the lower control arm. There may be a bit more room because (I think) the control arm will swing up and out a bit. If the sway bar were about 1 inch narrower, it would be much better. I'm going to call Addco tomorrow and see if they can give me any more insight.

Is your sway bar cadmium plated "gold" looking? Will it rust? I've been thinking about painting it with clear. The plating seems kind of thin.

Thanks,
John

 

[Rodder]

I have the 1 1/8 Addco bar. I've never noticed it hitting. Here's a pic, but I don't remember if the wheel was straight ahead or turned right when I took it.

 

[mean buzzen half dozen]

I have a 1" Addco, it did not hit anything on my 69.

MBHD

 

[guccieng]

mine was black powdercoated from summit. i'd call addco and make sure you have the right part, and the right dimensions. the bolt should only stick a couple/few threads past the bolt on the steering arm. any more than that is a waste and needs to be trimmed. i've seen both sizes, long and short bolts and mine were backwards on the 'bird, so i trimmed them. my camaro is set up pretty much the same and with the short bolts, there isn't any issues.

 

[Rodder]

I finally remember to looked at mine when I had it jacked up the other day to work on the exhaust. With the front suspension at full droop, mine hits too. Looked like it might clear at normal ride height.

 

[Rookobird]

Thanks a lot guys! I called Addco and the guy was quite helpful. He said it shouldn't be a problem, but I went ahead and "clearanced" it anyway. Now it doesn't hit jacked up and will have plenty of clearance when it's on the wheels.
Another issue dealt with- on to the next.
Thanks again,
John

 

[pdq67]

Put it on the ground and then trim your bolts and spacers and it should be fine.

And I finally pitched the cheap ADDCO end links that came w/ my bar back in the early '80's and went w/, (I think), Energy Suspension stuff! The red poly kit...

pdq67

 

[Fred Ficarra]

I finally pitched the coil spring kit that came with my Addco 1" inch bar in 1969, when poly bushings came out on the 2nd gen Trans Am. The coil springs were some crazy idea about tuning the amount of sway the bar allowed. Who does that?! Sixties thinking. 'Flat' is the only way to go around a corner. On my web site opening screen is a video of the return trip from a burnout. The car gets loose because of my right foot, but because of the sway bars (2) it comes right back with no noticeable lean. You're gonna love that bar. Then put on the matching rear bar. Too neat! Then install sub frame connectors. Weld 'em up. Don't forget wide rubber. You don't want stiff shocks. Enjoy. And only use poly bushings and end-links. Stiff is better.

 

[Rodder]

fred: road racers will adjust one of their sway bars to tweak balance (understeer vs oversteer) for a particular track.

 

[Fred Ficarra]

Yeah, Jon. Thanks for reminding me. I still remember the instructions. The little coil springs were for tuning on rough tracks, such as washboards. I've such a patch on our road because of tree roots. I keep my speed under 60 there, not because of the washboard, but because deer are always crossing to the creek. Besides, it's a blind corner. I'd hate to ruin a bambi's day. Ours out here are all pets.

 

[pdq67]

My car was set up w/ a 1" and a 3/4" front and rear ADDCO S/B's and slappers!!

It would push some at speed in a tight corner, BUT nothing some throttle-induced rear kick-out wouldn't take care of in a New York minute!!

My car back then was sprung SO tight that it would almost skip sideways at speed taking a 90 degree corner in town!! Road like a lumber wagon slow, but the faster I drove, the smoother it became!!

pdq67

 

[Rodder]

fred: never seen a setup with springs like that... all of the adjustable bars I've seen have multiple hold for attaching the end links, so you can adjust the length of the lever arms of the bar.

pdq: I'm running the 1 1/8" bar up front and 7/8" bar in the rear. In a hard turn, I think I have more chassis flex than suspension roll at the moment.