[FbodyMike]

SB spring # is 11162350
BB spring # is 11162351

? I had for RT on how much lower the car will be with spring installed as is (1 1/2"), then by cutting 1/2 of a coil out (1/2" more) compared to 5/8 of a coil. Yeah it got that specific and also said take baby steps as there is no going back after cutting. Of course this means install, measure height, drive to let spring settle...repeat if you want it lower. FWIW I got a 1 5/8" drop with spring as is so I did not cut mine

RT either included with spring install instructions or emailed it separate but I have a scale drawing of a cut coil template showing where to cut if cutting off 5/8 of a coil like they did in the "green car" photo on their site. I can take a pic of it and post if needed but you could also get it from their site or contact them. darren@ridetech.com

Are you sure you installed the spring right?
Close coils towards bottom?
This is step 2: "Insert coil spring in pocket (lower control arm). SPECIAL ATTENTION NEEDS TO BE PLACED ON THE LOCATION OF THE ENDS OF THE SPRINGS TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE CLOCKED CORRECTLY. The end of the coil spring will nest into the receiver area of control arm. If you line up bottom, the top will be correct."

Assuming if it comes to requiring cutting then you would do the top?

 

[SoCal805]

Assuming if it comes to requiring cutting then you would do the top?

My assumption is yes but I did not get an answer to that ? in the email response I got from Darren. Since I did not cut mine, I did not follow up with a repeat ? to Darren. I would email him and ask

I did just read the correspondence I had with him (he did attach the spring cut diagram in his email reply) he said 67-68 often do cut their spring more, if at all, than 69 as the wheel openings of 67-68 body are arch higher than 69. Personally, I like the body lines of 67 better than 69.

It comes down to tire size and suspension components used and what a particular person wants for the stance. My $02 is to low causes problems be it turning radius restriction (tire/rim back space size), grounding body or headers entering driveways or speed bumps, etc.

In general, I am not a lowered car guy but the way my 67 came, to me, it looked like it had 4-wheel drive with huge gaps between tire & fender/1/4 panel openings. I also have 14" mags that came on car but have the largest BFG 14" tire available on back.

RT front springs gave me a 1 5/8" drop and 2" lowering blocks for rear on my car, to me, gets it the right stance and I have zero ground clearance issues. YMMV

 

[SinisterSpeed]

SB spring # is 11162350
BB spring # is 11162351

? I had for RT on how much lower the car will be with spring installed as is (1 1/2"), then by cutting 1/2 of a coil out (1/2" more) compared to 5/8 of a coil. Yeah it got that specific and also said take baby steps as there is no going back after cutting. Of course this means install, measure height, drive to let spring settle...repeat if you want it lower. FWIW I got a 1 5/8" drop with spring as is so I did not cut mine

RT either included with spring install instructions or emailed it separate but I have a scale drawing of a cut coil template showing where to cut if cutting off 5/8 of a coil like they did in the "green car" photo on their site. I can take a pic of it and post if needed but you could also get it from their site or contact them. darren@ridetech.com

Are you sure you installed the spring right?
Close coils towards bottom?
This is step 2: "Insert coil spring in pocket (lower control arm). SPECIAL ATTENTION NEEDS TO BE PLACED ON THE LOCATION OF THE ENDS OF THE SPRINGS TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE CLOCKED CORRECTLY. The end of the coil spring will nest into the receiver area of control arm. If you line up bottom, the top will be correct."

I do have the clocked correctly for sure. Also verified I do have 1162350 springs.

I ended up cutting them.

Super happy with the results. I went just slightly further than the template said to cut since they give you that to match the 1” rear drop. I wanted to go about 1.5”.

Took it out yesterday for about an hour testing out new 6sp, gears, posi, and stance. Tried a few different driveways to insure no issues. No rubbing or scraping and it drives, shifts, rides and tracks like a dream.


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[SinisterSpeed]

I've done a bunch on this car while I've been fortunate to use a buddies lift. I couldn't be happier with the results on the drivetrain.
I had already done a bunch on the drivetrain but I really wanted to use the lift to do the trans swap.

In the past 4 weeks, LT1 T56 swap, Hyd Clutch conversion, 1995 high Tq starter, Valeo clutch, Centerforce flywheel, Quick Performance Axles, Posi, and 4.10 gears, Quik Stix offset shifter, swapped from 1" to 15/16" Wilwood master, rear RT shocks, 1" lowering kit in rear installed, cut the front springs.

The only things left on my wish list before spring is:
Actually get and install AGR steering box John at AGR Performance has told me was "shipping tomorrow" 4 times now actually arrives (tracking still says UPS hasn't yet received it).
Then I'll change out the box, and all steering links/joins with ProForged stuff I have on the table waiting and get it re-aligned.

Get the windows tinted and lastly, where are those spoilers I ordered 2/9?... In stock items at classic industries, it's now the 14th and also just says "label created"

I'd like to get the rear one mounted and find a paint shop to shoot the deck lid & spoiler, have the paint blended and then cut and buff the whole car.

 

[SoCal805]

Stance looks awesome Sinister. Every car is different in terms of how a lowering spring lands on height. You nailed it on your set up

4:10's are perfect for a T56

If you used a gen 2 LT1/T56, the stock MC size is 3/4" IIRC. I have the Wilwood 13/16" MC in my LT1 car per McLeod for the Twin Disc clutch I have. Valeo made the stock clutch which is a good clutch

 

[SinisterSpeed]

Stance looks awesome Sinister. Every car is different in terms of how a lowering spring lands on height. You nailed it on your set up

4:10's are perfect for a T56

If you used a gen 2 LT1/T56, the stock MC size is 3/4" IIRC. I have the Wilwood 13/16" MC in my LT1 car per McLeod for the Twin Disc clutch I have. Valeo made the stock clutch which is a good clutch

I'm not sure if the T56 is the gen1 or 2. It is a Borg Warner came from 1995 Z28 with an LT1, pull clutch, with .82 5th gear and .50 6th..
I bought a 3/4" one Wilwood suggested, totally wrong style. It was pretty obvious there was no way to make that M/C work.
I bought the pre-bled oem one which would have worked if I had the measurements on where to modify the OEM pedal and the bracket for the FW.
I ended up doing some research while the trans was already mounted in the car on how to do the clutch and found the Mcloud conversion.
I returned the OEM 1995 Z28 one ($212), ordered the Mcloud conversion for $299 on Amazon showed up in 3 days. It was a PIA to get it bled but finally got it.
I used the stock clutch because this car is actually bought to be an actual driver. I wanted it to drive nice rather than be a race car.
I want to be able to jump in it and comfortably cruise up I5 north to Seattle from Portland at 75mph.

The other Wilwood mishap was they recommended I use 1" bore brake M/C. With the 6 piston front disc set up, it still felt like the 67 drum brakes.
I called back and of course now they recommended a 15/16". Now that I've mounted the 1" one they offered no returns but they did give me a good deal and this time.
I was nervous about the trouble only changing 1/16" but it did make a huge difference in the pedal effort required.

Later on I plan to do an LS3 with some sort of power adder. At that time, I'll probably upgrade the trans, and set it all in a new subframe all in one batch.
For the Gen1 SBC 275-300hp a stock clutch for an LT1 should be more than enough.

 

[SoCal805]

Wilwood just makes the MC. McLeod uses their compact MC for clutch MC but they make the angled brackets to attach the Wilwood MC to the various firewall/pedal configurations of a particular car model.

I used their 13/16" 95-97 F body MC to a custom-made (pic) clutch pedal assembly for my 96 Impala. Since those cars came with a LT1 the trans, bellhousing/T56 bolted right in. Bow Tie overdrive actually makes a X member for the mid 94-96 B body for a T56 and 4L60E trans

Your T56 would say Borg Warner on it but Tremec owned them then

 

[SinisterSpeed]

Wilwood just makes the MC. McLeod uses their compact MC for clutch MC but they make the angled brackets to attach the Wilwood MC to the various firewall/pedal configurations of a particular car model.

I used their 13/16" 95-97 F body MC to a custom-made (pic) clutch pedal assembly for my 96 Impala. Since those cars came with a LT1 the trans, bellhousing/T56 bolted right in. Bow Tie overdrive actually makes a X member for the mid 94-96 B body for a T56 and 4L60E trans

Your T56 would say Borg Warner on it but Tremec owned them then

View attachment 287250

Nice pedal work!
I didn't know Tremec owned them already by then.

Yeah I realized the Mcloud set up actually did still use the compact MC and remote res. from Wilwood.
My issue it this is what Wilwood told me to buy when I told them I was going to put T56 in a first gen F-body and needed to convert it to hyd clutch.

There wasn't any way this was going to work. So I have a new one of those along with the almost new 1" brake MC they had me buy as well. Nothing like throwing $500 out the window to learn a few things. Price of admission I guess.

 

[Sauron67MM]

I'm on the hunt for a set of spoilers to add to my 67. What I'd like to know from you guys is if you've had any experience with the quality of the repops and if so what/where should I buy them?

I've been looking at the OER ones and the ProTrouring ones on ClassicIndustries.com. From what I can tell the rear one doesn't appear to me in the photo to look any different other than the carbon fiber dipped pattern (I'll be color matching).

But the front one does look different F678F vs. R370. I kind of like the aggressive look of the ProTouring one does anyone have any pics of it on a car by chance?

Then I go over to Year One and can't even find them, what I do find doesn't show any pictures on the car or anything.

So I thought I'd ask you guys here that might have been down this road. What spoiler did you use? Were you happy with the quality and fitment?


I might replace the rear decklid as well since mine has no holes underneath and the only spot on the car that could use some paint repair anyway.

I have GM rear spoilers in stock from decades of building these cars and parting them out.

 

[SinisterSpeed]

This is how they turned out

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