I'd swap those mounts side for side. Drivers side is where all of the problems are likely to happen. Passengers side is just along for the ride.

 

You most likely already have the interlocking type of mounts. All replacements made since 1970 all have been the interlocking type. I don't think you are going to be able to drop your engine as they all sit the same. The wider shorter motor mounts use the taller frame stands so the engine is in the same location.

 

I honestly don't know the kind of rubber mount I have, I know the frame bracket is the tall one to work with low perf mount as called on david pozzy site. What does it mean 'interlocking' and how can I check ?

 

Duralast 2142 or 2267 mounts are the type of mounts I have. Is there no difference with 2283 on the way the engine will behave ?

 

No

 

Well this is all interesting, so the travel movement of my 383 is more than I expected.
Is that indeed possible that a rubber mount allows engine travel around 3/16" of movement at the header??
Dyno john suggested to move the polyurethane mount to the driver side. Indeed in this case the rubber (on the passenger side will compress) . The engine movement will be different and lower. The exhaust at DS would not raise anymore.
Do you share ?

 

Why don’t you just bump the tunnel in a little at the point of contact? It must be a minor touch if only happens at max throttle.

 

I've done it Don, and for some time I solved it. but it comes now again. I cannot understand that, so I was thinking about the motor mounts.

Access is very poor, and the tunnel does not react when I bump it.
What I did is disconnect the exhaust pipe at headers, free the crossmember and lower the trans to access the spot, I grinded it.

 

Bump it out with a big hammer and appropriately sized piece of wood. Grinding will not be enough. Likely only needs a 5-10 mm by the sounds of it.

 

Hi Don, thanks I will try that.
I need to get access for it. I may just disconnect the exhaust and leave the trans crossmember...

Also after reading about the different posts I need to replace the trans mount by a rubber type like
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1958-82-GM-Transmission-Rubber-Mount-Cushion,4292.html

 

Marc

I have the autozone rubber (interlocking) engine mounts, both sides. If you do have 1 rubber and 1 poly engine mount, put the poly on the drivers side. My engine stands are for a 327 which I have my 355 BPE on. My Camaro (TH350 trans) has rubber trans mount.

If you run poly engine mounts, use a rubber trans mount. What I have on my 383/T56 car (not a Camaro). Don't run all poly mounts (engine & trans).

If you know the contact is from trans hitting tunnel, can you see a witness mark on tunnel?, clearance the tunnel. The tunnel and floor board do move up when persuaded with a big hammer/wood. I understand it's a pain to lower trans some to gain access...so is lifting motor to replace engine stands and mounts.

Floor pan, and tunnel to some degree, can sag over 50 + years. A floor jack and block of wood can push them back up.

Another option would be to put taller body mounts in or washers between your current body mounts and body.

My $.02 is fix the clearance issue at the point of contact, not move the engine.

 

Thanks guys,
Roger, I don't see a contact on the tunnel, I just hear that grounding is there. I understand what you say about the rubber trans mount therefore I think I should do that replacement.
I believe the part I showed to you is correct.
And there are 2 directions : I need to change the engine mounts side to side and I need to raise the tunnel.
Some funny evening...

 

Thanks guys,
Roger, I don't see a contact on the tunnel, I just hear that grounding is there. I understand what you say about the rubber trans mount therefore I think I should do that replacement.
I believe the part I showed to you is correct.
And there are 2 directions : I need to change the engine mounts side to side and I need to raise the tunnel.
Some funny evening...

..........TURNBUCKEL

 

The Reverse Lock Out solenoid on T56 typically needs tunnel clearance and if that is the location, you should be able to see it from under the car

Do you have the tunnel mod sheet metel often used on T56 swaps?

Look from under hood where the firewall seam/lip meets tunnel for any clearance issues.

Ideally you find some witness mark before jumping to deep down a hole.

 

the 2 different styles of mounts: same overall height

The interlocking mounts look like this and prvent the metal parts from pulling apart when the rubber bond fails:

 

The 2283 mount will not fit over the wide frame stand.

 

Effortless Installation with Speedtech Transmission Tunnel Cover

Install a T-56 in your Camaro with ease using our Speedtech Transmission Tunnel Cover. A simple alternative to costly transmission modifications.

speedtechperformance.com

 

I’ve used these on every T56 install.

I don’t agree with those claiming they can get clearance and DL angles without the tunnel mods.

 

Hi ! The t56 swap I did 10 years ago and we did cut the tunnel + welded a new steel shaped piece. Up front of the t56, there was simply no way to get it in...
it is indeed where the weld seem is that it is tight and i believe grounding with the front flange of the t56 high spot.

The solenoid Roger indeed is a very tight spot. It is not touching but is very close. No marking anywhere which make me think I should first try swapping the motor mounts...
OR I could stick paper tape on the tunel black paint have a drive and see.

Thanks for interconnecting mount explanation now I understand! My rubber mount I doubt is like this so it should come on the ps.

 

Marc, if you can slide a flexible thin flat something (spare slat from mini blind?) around top of bellhousing where it meets firewall and see if you run into interference and just use something else to pry that area away.

If in fact a different engine mount stand would lower motor (post 15 notes it doesn't) that is an option but based on Bob's post it won't.

Sounds like you need to clearance the offending area another way if post 15 is correct.

Yeaj its going to suck to drop trans if needed but you are an expert at that by now

 

SoCal805 discussion about body mounts brings up a good point. How old are the current ones? Aged rubber mounts will allow additional movement of the subframe relative to the body. Could also explain why the problem seemed to return.

Poly mounts would last longer before they creep. As he mentioned, (if the mounts are newer and in great shape) add a washer at all positions to gain slight clearance. If you were to replace the existing body mounts, you could use the washers from the old mounts as your spacers. Although I'm sure the Baumarkt would have something with the appropriate inner/outer diameters.

 

I'm sure your mount is interlocking type. They have not made a non-interlocking type since 1968 when they were changed for safety reasons.

 

Hi, to answer the questions asked :
The car subframe is bolted with solid mounts (global west) to the body + subframe connectors (detroit speed) welded.

Roger indeed it is a way to do it, + I can lower the trans by removing the trans mount to gain access.
But I don't like the idea to pry using the trans casing... what 'area' you were thinking of?

I am buying this mount through my local shop:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1958-82-GM-Transmission-Rubber-Mount-Cushion,4292.html

 

I agree Marc, don't pry against the transmission case. Removing the X member and lowering the trans ideally reveals where, a witness mark, is. How you then proceed to clearance it is up to you. Maybe using a slide hammer from inside the car if it is the tunnel area that is the conflict.

It may also be your exhaust, including headers, hitting something, likely drivers' side.

Then there is also adding washers (shims of appropriate size) between your solid mounts and body to raise it 1/8"+

The key is finding the point of contact where it is grounding.

 

Hi guys,

I could take some time working on the camaro tonight.
I wanted to share with you.

I first removed the bolt axis holding the motor mount on the frame bracket at the DS, I left the PS untouched. Then I raised the engine + trans under oil pan step by step looking closely where the trans / exhaust would make contact with the tunnel / body / crossmember.
I could see nothing really. I took my time and checked the tight spaces with a sheet of paper.
This photo below is as high as I got. At that point the space left exhaust to crossmember and also upper edger of trans to tunnel is almost equal to the thickness of the paper itself.

But this is as much as ~10 mm move at the motor mount which seems impossible to me !
I then removed the mounts and check if it the rubber mount is not broken.

It is in good shape. It is written Anchor 2267 on it.

I then inspected again under the car and in the engine bay for any possible grounding, I wondered about the accelerator rod that is close to the cylinder head cover. Then I thought this is not grounding as the noise happens when the gas pedal is on the ground...

I really don't understand.

 

Air cleaner to hood?? I know the clearance is tight in my case its propane carburator...

 

rev the engine some while you look at motor with hood up to see how much the engine torques over to passenger side to give you an idea of engine movement. It will lift some on DS (normal).

one thickness of paper is really not any clearance if I understand you right unless the raised motor was when you slid the paper in.

If it was air cleaner hitting hood, you should see a witness mark. You could just remove it for test drive to see if the grounding went away.

It is just with a modified car (headers, T56, lowered, big exhaust) clearances are tight in spaces on a 1st gen Camaro.

I don't know if the solid body mounts are same height as stock rubber...if not than add washer(s) to get a bigger body to chassis gap.