I'm working over my front suspension and wanted to convert to tubular control arms. My choices are narrowing down to Global West, Speed Tech and Autofab. I like the looks of the Global West arms, the Speed Tech arms are more versatile (accepting both coil-overs or stock springs) and the Autofab arms are the lightest and fully adjustable. I drag race more than street drive by about a 75/25 percentage. What do you guys think of these choices?
Autofab tubular control arms...Anyone use them??
hollywood406
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I'm working over my front suspension and wanted to convert to tubular control arms. My choices are narrowing down to Global West, Speed Tech and Autofab. I like the looks of the Global West arms, the Speed Tech arms are more versatile (accepting both coil-overs or stock springs) and the Autofab arms are the lightest and fully adjustable. I drag race more than street drive by about a 75/25 percentage. What do you guys think of these choices?
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86 Posts
I never heard of them but I'll check them out. I would like the control arms to be able to be driven on the street. Thanks for the tip!
The adjustable ones are made by SPC and sold through places like http://www.scandc.com/, etc...look into them. I am going to be using them due to making more header space . Any of those will work with coilovers..only the bottom arms matter with coilovers. Good luck
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5,497 Posts
Is this autofab in Maryland if so Rob is nice to deal with.
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That's the one. They seem to have a pretty decent reputation. I'm not sure if they're streetable though. I've pretty much decided on the Speed Tech control arms. Thanks for your input guys!
I want a set myself. I was about to get them here www.racingjunk.com/post/889050/Autofab-Tubular-Control-Arms-Free-Shipping.html Anyone see them cheaper anywhere?
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10,183 Posts
I would not use those lower control arms!!!
The LCA rod ends will have heavy loads placed on them at a 90 degree angle! NOT a good idea! This is asking for trouble. I would stay away from any lower A arm using rod ends. I don't care if it works on circle track cars, it just isn't a good design and there are better options around.
Sometimes cheap is not so cheap if it costs you your car.
The UCA should work OK, but the rod ends will not last nearly as long as the other brands of A arms with greaseable Delrin bushings in them.
David
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The LCA rod ends will have heavy loads placed on them at a 90 degree angle! NOT a good idea! This is asking for trouble. I would stay away from any lower A arm using rod ends. I don't care if it works on circle track cars, it just isn't a good design and there are better options around.
Sometimes cheap is not so cheap if it costs you your car.
The UCA should work OK, but the rod ends will not last nearly as long as the other brands of A arms with greaseable Delrin bushings in them.
David
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86 Posts
Thanks David. I was wondering if that would be a weak point. I guess I was thinking of the weight savings but safety is way more important, especially on the street. The subframe is finally out, for the first time in 41 years! I hope to replace a lot of worn out parts. I noticed that a had a large cut in one of my rubber brake hoses! Steel braided lines for me.
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10,183 Posts
Thanks for that info, I didn't spend a lot of time looking there. Bushed is OK if it's a well done Delrin bushing with grooves for the grease to spread around. Global West has really done a lot of detail development on their bushing and it's been proven on the street. Doug went over some of the temperature/expansion details of their Del-A-Lum bushings and the floating Delrin sleeve inside, quite interesting what goes on in there!
I just cringe when I see rod ends loaded sideways. Sure cornering loads are in the proper direction, but the weight of the car is being carried at a 90 deg angle to the rod end and it's wanting to bend the shank. The shank is threaded, so the exposed threads nearest the jam nut are where a failure is going to happen. The thread acts like the beginning of a crack and it just propagates from there. A sleeved housing is much better, but is more work to fabricate. Some racing parts are made for very very light weight cars.
David
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Those lower arms look like they'd be a major PITA to get in and aligned properly.
I am thinking so too. If I can get enough adjustment by using the uppers, the lowers with the rod ends would just be a waste of time. It would take some time, I am sure, to get them square in the car.
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7,796 Posts
Why even buy tubular control arms ? Just do the Guldstrand Mod. for free and it allows enough adjustment for a good alignment. I always hear, "I don't want to drill holes or grind on my subframe, because then it's not stock." Well tubular A-arms are not stock either !
I asked myself that same question, and here's what I came with: Indeed tubular arms are not stock either... but they don't require me to make irreversible changes to my car. Plus, they give you cool greaseable bushings and offer other geometry enhancements that the Guldstrand mod doesn't give you.
Now if only they didn't cost so much... then maybe I'd buy some.
~Bob
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33 Posts
Has anyone used the ones from TRZ? http://www.trzmotorsports.com/
They have a group purchase going on another board, and I am thinking about getting a set. They also offer a bump steer kit that I was looking at, how much would it help a 10-11 sec drag/street car?
They have a group purchase going on another board, and I am thinking about getting a set. They also offer a bump steer kit that I was looking at, how much would it help a 10-11 sec drag/street car?
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1,173 Posts
Dont think they would hold up well in a car that is driven frequently and turned once and awhile
"Designed for Drag Race Applications Where Spindle Caster Can Range from 0 to 10 Degrees. "
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