What rear is it? The axles should not stick out farther if the axles are made to stock camaro rear specs, and the rear has not been narrowed.

I've seen guys have to lop off some of the end of the axle splines when changing gear sets in a 9" for whatever reason... Maybe you could do the same if they wereade incorrectly or I'll fitting, but do some research before you start milling and cutting stuff lol.

Just throwing my thoughts out there.

 

It looks like your rotor isn't going on all the way. The axle has a small ridge to locate the drum, it may be preventing the rotor from fully seating. Also some rotors are small and the axle OD of the flange can hit the rotor where it tapers preventing full seating. You may also need longer wheel studs if the rotor hub is very thick.
Pulliing a wheel stud can help you see if it's seating.

 

I noticed you used the dust plate. If that kit is like mine it comes with a spacer to eliminate the need for the plate. If you used both, that might explain your problem. The spacer is not the same one that you use to shim the caliper. I chose not to use the plate on mine. Besides that those pads are a extra tight fit. After a test drive I had to sand down a pad on one wheel to eliminate drag.

Thanks much for the advice, it appears to be that the disc isn't fully seating on the axle. But there's not much space for it to go, only 1/8" - 3/16" at most. I took a bunch of imprecise measurements that confirm this is the situation, which I've written onto the drawing enclosed. The ridge is about 1/16" extra diameter over the main axle which is larger than the inside diameter of the disc. I did a search on this site and did find somebody with a nicely documented rear disc conversion (tired last night, didn't see it).

>rojo, thanks for pointing to the plate. you can't see it here, I put the dust plate is on the axle side of the differential and doesn't affect the spacing according to the directions. I had a scare looking through some of the pictures where somebody had theirs on backwards, but it appears correctly installed.

Now the questions and worries:
1) I do not have the right tools to grind it down. The disc is 5/16" and I need about 3/16" ground down. For a fee, I can ship the discs back and have them ground down. (I am rarely able to get away from work during the day to go to find a machine shop). What tools would I need to buy to do this work? A Dremel tool?

2) There are brackets and holders for the brake lines and hoses. Some are to be welded. For now, do you see any issue with just putting a few worm gear clamps on them until I get the car to a mechanic who can weld them on?

3) I have just bought new tires and wheels. The TireRack assured me the setbacks, etc, are all correct. I thought this job was a 1 week job (going on 2 months now) so I didn't try them out yet. I'm worried the tires will hit my wheel wells as they looked wide. The invoice doesn't give the offset, only gives "15x8 ARH VN515 Torq Thrust II 1 PC POLISHED" and "P235/60R-15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A". My, the wheels look nice, BTW.

Thanks,
Mark

 

I noticed you used the dust plate. If that kit is like mine it comes with a spacer to eliminate the need for the plate. If you used both, that might explain your problem. The spacer is not the same one that you use to shim the caliper. I chose not to use the plate on mine. Besides that those pads are a extra tight fit. After a test drive I had to sand down a pad on one wheel to eliminate drag.

 

I had the same problem with a Moser rear end I installed a few years ago. I didn't need the extra shims because they spaced the calipers in the wrong direction. I ended up milling about .040 off the thickness of the outer brake pad.

 

Rather having the rotors machined to fit the axles, it's a better idea to have the axles machined to fit the rotors to make future rotor replacements a simple job. I had the little ridge machined off of my axles for my particular swap. Some swaps require that the OD of the axle flange be reduced in size as well. It's an easy job for a competent machine shop. Take a rotor with you.

No problem attaching the hard/flex brackets with hose clamps. I prefer welded. The job will look more sanitary if you use brackets designed for use with hose clamps http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10021-02

 

Check this too.

 

Thanks, I checked it, it appears to be about 1/16th narrower than the disc. It is close, there's a touch of rust inside the disc from when I was rocking it. The mechanic who is pressing in my control arm bushings (sand blasting and powder coat looks good) ground 0.100" from the center hole. I can't try it until later this week. The mechanic says sometimes it's trial and error. It should be okay. The pad is going to be tight. I'm crossing my fingers. I'll cry if its the outside that's hitting.

Thanks again for your help and suggestions!

Mark

 

once the rotor is seated properly...does the caliper bracket bolt to the pumpkin side or axle side of the flange. I'm only familiar with the GM caliper brackets which bolt to the axle side of the flange.

Mat

 

Pumpkin side. I get my rotors back Wednesday or Thursday. Can't wait to try out and see if the 0.100" grind works magic and it all comes together.

Mark

 

Double check your wheel stud length. If you need longer studs, try 67 corvette rear studs. Also check end play on those axles. You want minimal end play. Generally all non-positraction rears have excessive end play. Positraction rears are tons better. You want .030" or less. Positraction rears can be shimmed in the clutch pack to reduce play, non-posi can be shimmed behind the c clips. Look for valve spring shims.

 

Thanks much for the nudge to get me to check this now.

Ok, so how does one remove the old studs? Can it be done on the car? They're so short I can't even thread a nut with the wheel on. If I have to take those axles out again, I'm probably buying new (long, frustrating story).

The play seemed OK. I don't have a tool to measure, but there's not much movement.

Good news on a couple items. 1) The 0.100" grind off the center hole did the trick and the discs install all the way. 2) The pads seem to be in the right place now that the discs are all the way on. This is with the mounting plate installed directly onto the differential with none of the installed spacers.

Here are a couple of pictures. First is the rotors with nuts installed; I first installed reversed checking to see that the 0.100" got over the ridge and set a measurement. It all works out as seen in the picture. Second is the wheel on the studs. So short I can't get the nuts to thread.

Maybe it's time for some good bourbon.

Thanks for the advice!
Mark

 

Ok, I found a few threads on this "Place an old lug nut onto the stud and whack the nut with a BFH." Then hope the new stud isn't too long.

On summit, I found two lengths for studs for the Camaro (lots of corvette options too).
Both are 7/16"-20, one is 1.5" other is 2.125". Current studs look like 1.5". This gives 5/8" for the lug nuts to run on, probably a touch more. Would this be long enough?

Thanks!
Mark

 

Mark, I can't tell for sure from your picture of the wheel but if the wheel requires conical with shank lug nuts you may be fine with the current studs. Like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-27802-4/overview/

 

Mark, I pulled a lug nut off the rear and front of my '69 which has disc and AR TT2's. The rear lugs protrude 7/8" from the face of the disc and the fronts are 1". This seems fine with these wheels. So if you do the math taking the difference of yours then adding that to the overall length once you get one out then that should be what you need. I would lean towards the 1" number. You can always check your fronts as well.

 

In addition to length, you also need to be concerned with the knurl diameter when replacing wheel studs. The knurl is the ridged portion just under the bolt head that bites into the hub to keep the bolt from spinning. You don't want a knurl smaller than what you currently have, but you can go a few thou larger.

It looks like you have AR TTII wheels, which is essentially what I have. Lots of good wheel stud info in this thread, along with the part # I wound up using. (NAPA/Balkamp part number 641-1268 - 2 1/8" long, 7/16-20)
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=108269

I would not buy these from Summit if you have a NAPA or other good parts house local - good chance you'll be making more than one trip.

 

In addition to length, you also need to be concerned with the knurl diameter when replacing wheel studs. The knurl is the ridged portion just under the bolt head that bites into the hub to keep the bolt from spinning. You don't want a knurl smaller than what you currently have, but you can go a few thou larger.

It looks like you have AR TTII wheels, which is essentially what I have. Lots of good wheel stud info in this thread, along with the part # I wound up using. (NAPA/Balkamp part number 641-1268 - 2 1/8" long, 7/16-20)
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=108269

I would not buy these from Summit if you have a NAPA or other good parts house local - good chance you'll be making more than one trip.

Hi BPOS,

Yes, same wheels. I found some that are 2-7/8" long, a lot longer than yours, too long. With the new rotors and studs not able to grab, ideal length seems to be about 2-1/4", giving 3/4"-7/8" length. 2-1/8" is 5/8-3/4". For this rotor, doesn't that seem a bit short?

thanks,
Mark

 

Hi BPOS,

I spent a lot of time running to different NAPAs today. I found the "641-1268 - 2 1/8" long, 7/16-20 thread". The measured knurl was over 0.490, visibly looked big, and I shied away from trying them. The 641-1615, which had just the right knurl, was only available in 1-3/4" long (Corvette version), which was at least 1/4" too short. But now I'm stuck without studs.

The more looking I do, it looks like my only option is the 641-1268 2-1/8". Other options are too long.

Guess I'm heading back again to Napa tomorrow. Is that wide knurl really going to work?

Mark

 

Ok, so I've got the 641-1268's waiting at Napa for me to pick up.

I'm worried about really messing up the differential by all this whacking to remove the studs. So I went looking through the repair manual. They show a simple hydraulic press with a pipe on the backside. And I'm thinking if I could pull my axles off, I could do the same with my vise. Then, I think, why pull the axles out when I can bring the vise to the axles!

I removed my el-cheapo harbor freight vise from the base and installed it onto my axle with a big honking bolt that is larger than the stud. Put on eye protection and heavy gloves. Cranked it really tight. And then tighter. Nothing. Then harder and ... nothing. I whacked it a bit ... nothing. Then I whacked the crank on the vise ... nothing. Granted, I thought the stud would just pop out so I didn't even use PT Blaster. Maybe tomorrow. Now I'm starting to worry about my vise shattering and sending shrapnel everywhere. I'm leaving the vise on overnight. We'll see if it's moved by morning.

Glad I didn't try my c-clamp, never would have worked... I'm starting to think about that advice to buy brand new axles and have the studs pressed in for me. Thing is, I have a concern (unfounded) that I've somehow screwed up the differential already and I'll need to replace it. On that note, I'll post another question follow-up to my rear wheel bearing question.

Thanks!
Mark

 

Those studs shouldn't be that hard to remove. I've removed lots of 'em, and it usually takes 2-3 good whacks with a 2lb short handled sledge. Some come out on the first hit. (make sure they're not threaded - unlikely - or you could hit them 'til your arm falls off)

Maybe soak them overnight with a good penetrant and try again. And yes - the first time I cranked hard on my HF bench vise the POS broke.

 

Hi BPOS,

Thanks for the suggestions! The bolts came out and went in fine last night. I'd been soaking them with PTBlaster the past few days, one side was a little harder than the other. So I'm off and running for installation. Managed to get one set of discs in place last night. Messing around with the EBrake (I'd accidently knocked the spring out), the caliper tightened a little, so it drags a bit. I'm sure after I get it all together it'll loosen back up. The tab where the ebrake cable goes in was too tight, I had to bend it out to get the cable in. Oh yeah, there's the picture of the pipe wrench used by my friend to keep the axle from spinning when I was turning in the studs.

I'm learning to check and double check. The lug nuts screw on almost to the disc. With the thick new wheels, they're fine.

When I put my wheel on, it looks like I'm at risk for hitting the fender. I'll finish the rear brakes first and then worry about that later

Since there are so many rear disc conversion threads, I'm thinking about writing a little article when I'm done on my experience along with pictures.

Mark

 

Looks like you're off and running - good job!

 

Thanks for all the help BPOS and others, it's all in. Front studs are a bit shorter than I'd like, but with the old lug nuts, nearly flush so that should be good enough.

Three leaks to work out, some other issues (will do a new thread), and it's ready to roll!

Mark