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CNC BLOCKS N/E

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
The 3 center registers have a radius where the caps set which is great but the caps were never beveled to match the register which now the registers are damaged plus this cap has a burr on it and they still installed it now damaging the side of the register. Hope this is clear enough??

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
oger said:
Are they all that way or is this an exception?
Hopefully this is an isolated case but I'm not sure as I am waiting for a call from Bob Cross from GM performance division if I hear I will post.
 
Probably isolated, just delivered #5 and placing #6 on the dyno Tuesday. No problems on about 10 (all tolled) of 'em we're working on here. This is one of my biggest "gripes", quality control stinks. I just finished installing a set of the new Eagle Flat-head Ford rods, came out of the box with a .748 hole, but uses a.750 pin. If you call Jimmy at Eagle, he'll state the infamous "you got the only bad set", send 'em back we'll fix 'em. Customers off the street don't understand why we charge 'em 1200.00/1800.00 to assemble a "good" motor. But they're figurin' it out all by themselves after they attempt it on their own and they bring the pieces back to "fix" everything. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
GOSFAST said:
Probably isolated, just delivered #5 and placing #6 on the dyno Tuesday. No problems on about 10 (all tolled) of 'em we're working on here. This is one of my biggest "gripes", quality control stinks. I just finished installing a set of the new Eagle Flat-head Ford rods, came out of the box with a .748 hole, but uses a.750 pin. If you call Jimmy at Eagle, he'll state the infamous "you got the only bad set", send 'em back we'll fix 'em. Customers off the street don't understand why we charge 'em 1200.00/1800.00 to assemble a "good" motor. But they're figurin' it out all by themselves after they attempt it on their own and they bring the pieces back to "fix" everything. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
In most casses we don't use the Bow-tie with billet caps as we try to push the Dart Little-M blocks with billet caps as they are about 900 dollars cheaper the Bow-tie block. But we do use more of the Bow-tie Sportman Blocks with nodular iron caps but compared to the Dart Sportman block with nodular caps the Darts are about 400 dollars cheaper.

The block in the picture was sent to us to machine for Roller cam bearings. But I believe there looking at buying a Dart from us as GM has been 2 weeks now getting back to us with an anser
 
"Customers off the street don't understand why we charge 'em 1200.00/1800.00 to assemble a "good" motor. But they're figurin' it out all by themselves after they attempt it on their own and they bring the pieces back to "fix" everything"

Glad you said it Gary ... most of them don't have a clue what it takes.

As far as the Eagle rods go, almost every aftermarket rod I have seen ends up leaving the pin a bit on the tight side. Actually, I prefer it that way. I can size them for the clearance I want.
 
These weren't tight, these were press fit +.002 with a bushing. I wish they'd all wake up a little more. They didn't even fit the block without notching, no notes inside the box or anything. I can just imagine shipping 'em out and gettin' the calls back from in the field. How many rods you figure they're goin' to sell to the flathead guys doin' their own engines? Tell 'em they got a bunch of grindin' to do first, I don't think so. In our area, the local crank grinder just retired after 30+ years. If you could talk to him, he would have told you how busy he was "repairing" all the "bent" Chinese cranks he had to grind straight (.010 Mains) up here just to get 'em in the engines, from one of the biggest local builders in the country. I just laid a BB 1/4" in the saddles and had zero end-play, again, "it's the only bad one out there". They must think we just fell off the "turnip-truck". I want to make everyone aware of why even with "cheap" parts prices the motors are still fairly expensive. And whether it's "off-shore" or "domestic", the quality control, if there's such a thing anymore, plain "stinks". The engine-builders or the final customer usually takes the "hit", not the manufacturers. It's a little frustrating at times, and a lot of extra labor. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
PS Personally, my hat's off to all the engine-builders out there trying to do a decent job. It's not as easy as it appears to the "outsiders". Sometimes, you build 'em an engine, it's like marryin' 'em.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Gary

I beleive your talking about the Eagle stuff as we had so many problems with there stuff we stopped selling it as it would take 5 cranks to get one good one.

We do sell a lot of 4340 cranks and rods to the street and strip applications we stay away from any of the cast cranks as guys tend to put a cast crank where a 4340 cranks should go. And still every thing has to be clearanced out and fit.
 
Bill and Carl,

I want to measure the rod small ends, piston pin bores, and lifter bores for my project at home. I've got floating pins and some 'feel' just a tad tighter than others when assembled on the rods and pistons. How do you guys measure small bore diameters and what tool do you use? I've got a dial bore gauge, snap gauges, and a dial caliper, but the bore gauge is too big and the snap guages and calipers aren't accurate enough.

Thanks. -Neil
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Neil B said:
Bill and Carl,

I want to measure the rod small ends, piston pin bores, and lifter bores for my project at home. I've got floating pins and some 'feel' just a tad tighter than others when assembled on the rods and pistons. How do you guys measure small bore diameters and what tool do you use? I've got a dial bore gauge, snap gauges, and a dial caliper, but the bore gauge is too big and the snap guages and calipers aren't accurate enough.

Thanks. -Neil
Neal

We have all Sunnen bore gauges we use the small one in the pic for pin bores in the pistons and the small end of rods but in most cases we use the AG-300 gauge on our rod hone as it has a fixture to put the wrist pins in to set you gauge on the hone.

And we also have two 12 inch gauges that go from 2 to 8 inches and 2 setting fixtures and we also have a 24 gauge we use when line boring the cam tunnels for roller bearings in our fixture for blue printing cam tunnels.

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