You might have to clearance the bottom of the block on the aftermarket block still, for the 383 crank.

Why not see what a shop would charge to do the same work?

 

you might have to clearance the bottom of the block on the aftermarket block still, for the 383 crank.

Why not see what a shop would charge to do the same work?

x 2

 

Have you looked on Craigslist for a rebuildable 400 smallblock ?

Cheaper to build than a 383.

 

I have looked everywhere. I really don't want to mess with a core.

I essentially aware of any clearance issues with the 400 crank.

 

I meant I wasent aware.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/overview/

Here is the block i was interested in.

I will definitely get the 383 crank thanks.

 

Looks like it is ready for a 383 crank, so you won't have to clearance it.

 

That's not a bad deal on the block. A good friend just recently bought one but still had several hundred in machine work. Deck height was .015 as delivered. Both the deck surface and cylinders had verylight surface rust, so he had the block decked to .005 and had the cylinders plate honed. Hot tanked and new cam bearings. All in all I think he could have started with a good core ($150-$200) and had about the same money. Six in one hand, half dozen in the other

 

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10105123?seid=srese1&gclid=CJa5jvaX6r0CFdBcMgod0HAAjg

That brings up a good point cause I can get this block from summit also.

Maybe the tolerances are tighter with A brand new block from Chevrolet Performance.

 

I started with a 4-bolt 350 block and went from there. Don't recall exact price on the machining end, but really the only difference between it and building a 350 was the 100 bucks to clearance for the 383 crank. From what my machinist said, where people get into trouble is buying an aftermarket block thinking cost is close to a used block plus machine work (i.e. bolt on new block and go), then finding out it needs machine work anyway. There are plenty of very valid reasons to go aftermarket (Dart, World, etc) but from what I understand price due to lack of needed machining isn't one of them. I guess the big thing is assume that you won't just be able to bolt that block together out of the box.

Not to jack the thread but a 400 based engine might be in my future. To those who suggested that, and for the OP if he decides to go that route, is there any truth to the rumor I heard that it is better to get a two-bolt and either run it or go with a splayed cap conversion? I heard the factory 4-bolts like to crack around the outer main bolt holes (near the bottom of the hole i.e. towards top of engine near cylinders).

 

have you priced it all out to put together yourself? there are so many shops and builders online that have 383 programs with warranty, is it worth the hassle? been super happy with my 383 built by prestige motorsports in NC with full three year warranty and all the good stuff

 

I live in a small town not much around here when it comes to speed shops.

One can build a 383 for half the price and still have an all forged bottom end. Or with a cast steel crank. There are some kits out for prices I could never piece together cheaper.

I'm going to build my own motor I just want to start with a good block preferably 1pc rms.

 

"Omally"


Take this for what it's worth. I am just finishing a 2 bolt (509 casting) 406. I have had this block under a bench for several years and decided to go this route. First thing was to have the block shot peened, cleaned and magna fluxed. I also had the cylinders sonic tested for thickness. The block checked out fine so I decided to give it a shot.

Quality machine work is imperative with any build, even more so with a 400 block . At a minimum I would recommend a line hone, bore/hone with torque plates. I chose to stud the mains and went with head studs. My opinion is if your also going to spend the money for splayed caps, I would go with a better block. There is no sense putting that much money in a stock 400 block

If I didn't already have this block, I would have went with a SHP block. 400 sbc cores around here are hard to come by and you roll the dice by buying one before you can check it out. Even the SHP block as good as it is, will require some machine work. My build is fairly mild so I chose to take a chance with my stock block. When/ if it gives up on me, I will definitely go with the SHP and more cubic inches.

I'm not trying to scare you away from 400's, I think they are great little street motors and in the right application will live for a long time. You have to do whats best for you and your budget.

Mike

 

One thing you may consider is getting a hydraulic roller block. I am on my second flat tappet in my 68 and its getting to be a hassle buying the right oil, etc. I was surprised to see (from a member post on here) that Year One has a pretty good deal on a nearly complete hydraulic roller 350 that is 400 hp and 400 ft. lbs. I have found going to a 383 adds significantly to the cost.

 

Yep, that's why I'm going with a 1pc rms 4bolt because they have the bosses in the oil valley.

 

For nearly the same money I think I'd go GM performance option over the Summit block. That's just personal opinion, nothing against Summit.

Further if you do have access to a local machine shop I'd bet that they can hit the price but also advise you better on what you aren't necessarily getting. One other thing to consider is that the cost is pretty significant to have to return a mail order block vs just taking it back to the guy you shook hands with. Note you said you wanted the block tested- neither of the descriptions I read mentioned sonic or magnaflux.

 

Thanks and I agree I we with GMP block.

 

Data point for your consideration; I bought a SHP block for my 400 build and it needed full machining. The deck was 9.025, machined to 9.0, and from there it went through all the regular steps a junkyard block would go through just because that's the way a quality build should go IMO. Makes it a more expensive block than you might think. Point being, regardless of what block you get, expect it will need complete machining and clearance work.